I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 I have a brown substance coming out of the floor vent not to mention when I turn the heat on I smell antifreeze and my window steams / obviously I need a heater core. My next question is how difficult of task I have done heater core before on an S10 as far as brands should I stick with Mopar or go with something else

I dont know the S10, but these trucks you will need to pull the dash loose to remove the hvac box to get to the heater core. It sounds more daunting than it is. We have an article on the process in the articles section. I would link it for you but me and this tablet do not get along for that. It would be a good idea to pull it so you can clean it out and also redo the foam gaskets. The outside air is not filtered so things can get in there and block it up.

 

I did mine about 8 years ago with a core and ac evaporator from rock auto and they are still working fine.

I hate tablets........

Not hard, mostly time consuming. And facing the fear of cracking your dash if it’s original and crack free.
I usually pinch off the hoses with visegrips to save as much coolant as possible. 

Well my dash is cracked but not sure about replacing it, the prices are ridiculous for replacement. i know at full temp its barely blowing hot air, was gonna replace the thermostat also, im going with a spectra premium. is it necessary to replace the evap at the same time. 

Well it would be pita to go thru this and have it start leaking a couple months later. 

Where are you looking at prices on thr dash? I paid $300 for mine back when 

I did it.

@dripley, do you remember how much the ac evaporator was? Genos has one for 337 bucks! Yikes. But rockauto is between 38 to 50 bucks, depending on what you choose. Is there a reason for such a drastic difference in price??

 

what about discharging the AC safely?

5 hours ago, Alexio Auditore said:

@dripley, do you remember how much the ac evaporator was? Genos has one for 337 bucks! Yikes. But rockauto is between 38 to 50 bucks, depending on what you choose. Is there a reason for such a drastic difference in price??

 

what about discharging the AC safely?

No sir , l could not tell you tht difference. I guess l would have to see them side by side. 

 Mine was already discharged from a leak.

On 4/23/2020 at 9:22 PM, Towrigdually said:

I usually pinch off the hoses with visegrips to save as much coolant as possible. 

 

This is why the heater core failed. Coolant was not changed and flushed often enough so the coolant pH now turns corrosive and eats any metals its touching including the heater core. Coolant should not be kept over 5 years or 100k miles. Even at 75k miles you might find the pH already going south. 

 

On 4/23/2020 at 9:22 PM, Towrigdually said:

And facing the fear of cracking your dash if it’s original and crack free.

 

Replacement dashes can be installed while the dash is released from the firewall being I know that @dripley has done it. 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Replacement dashes can be installed while the dash is released from the firewall being I know that @dripley has done it. 

If you have the cash for it, that is the time to replace it. 

IBMobile is driving 907 miles to my place to do the heater core and evaporator, including all new O rings and recharging the A/C system. He owns a mobile mechanic service. Man what service..... he might even bring me a hamburger and a milkshake when he gets here. Well.... the truth is we meet up at camp twice a year and he needs a new roof on his 5th wheel and I'm in charge of getting that accomplished. Gonna get interesting around here. At least if I get a lose screw over it  I do have a metal detector to find it again. 

12 hours ago, Alexio Auditore said:

But rockauto is between 38 to 50 bucks,

That's about the right price.  I checked on about 10 different evaporators.  The price range was $30-$75.

 

1 hour ago, JAG1 said:

IBMobile is driving 907 miles to my place to do the heater core and evaporator, including all new O rings and recharging the A/C system.

  I'll also replace the AC accumulator and orifice tube/high pressure liquid line and add 4ozs of PAG 100, 

 As for JAG1, he lost that screw a long time ago.

11 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

As for JAG1, he lost that screw a long time ago.

Just one???

Thanks a lot Dripley 

5 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Thanks a lot Dripley 

BTW,  everyone I forgot to order the part called the 'heater treater'. I've never seen this part that replaces dodge plastic part that often breaks on the blend door. Anyway might not be difficult to make one..... it is something needs mentioning here to replace when the dash is apart though.

31 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

BTW,  everyone I forgot to order the part called the 'heater treater'. I've never seen this part that replaces dodge plastic part that often breaks on the blend door. Anyway might not be difficult to make one..... it is something needs mentioning here to replace when the dash is apart though.

Definitely easier to get to with the hvac box out. Did mine at that time.

48 minutes ago, dripley said:

Definitely easier to get to with the hvac box out. Did mine at that time.

so all's it is, is that attachment part connecting the actuator motor to the blend door. Looks a 'D' shape on one end and a slotted end on the other. Is that right Dripley? My bud from Feather Farms USA.

Edited April 26, 20204 yr by JAG1

Pretty much IIRC. Not much of a part for the money. But it is really good getting it in and properly indexing the motor.

Edited April 26, 20204 yr by dripley

@JAG1 order it now and it will be there Friday when I put the box back together.

http://heatertreater.net/dodge-ram-95-02

8 hours ago, IBMobile said:

@JAG1 order it now and it will be there Friday when I put the box back together.

http://heatertreater.net/dodge-ram-95-02

got it ordered. Thank you Dan.