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Head studs

Blueox01
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Blueox01

Blueox01

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6 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I left about 1/2 turn out but after torquing to 125 foot pounds I'm pretty sure they bottomed out. I lubed both ends...

I wondered about lube on the threads going into block, but it doesn't mention it, threads were clean, screwed by hand to the bottom. didn't think they should be loose though. so I used the Allen wrench they provided just to snug.  Think I'll pull them out and lube them. Thx Mike!

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Reason why. When I pulled the studs out the long studs on the outside of the valve cover has some rust started and I had to clean the holes out and clean the threads. I lubed the threads on the block end to retard rusting in the future. First install I did it dry and wishing now I didn't. The other thing I bought a 10oz bottle of ARP lube for install instead of the little tiny 1.5 blister pack. This way I could really put as much lube on everything as I wished.  

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Blueox01

Blueox01

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Thx, Mike. That's what I'm doing, just think I don't want studs to have any "wobble" when torquing the nuts, so I'm gonna bottom them without a torque. I can really see the difference between the Cummins head gasket Vs the Mahle. Used my Porta Crane to set head on, very little adjustment to get it to fall on alignment dowels. 

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Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

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I was always told not to bottom out studs because of how they grab the threads. Trying to picture it in my mind if it matters :think:. I used motor oil on bottom threads and anti-seize on not threaded part to keep rust away, next time if I'll do it I'll put some of that fluid film on them :whistle:

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Blueox01

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1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

I was always told not to bottom out studs because of how they grab the threads. Trying to picture it in my mind if it matters . I used motor oil on bottom threads and anti-seize on not threaded part to keep rust away, next time if I'll do it I'll put some of that fluid film on them :whistle:

Haven't torqued it down yet, but both you and mike gave same advice, so I backed them off a little, but I was of the mindset that the clamping force should be on the nuts being torqued, and not the studs turning in the block.

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Regardless of who made the studs. The fact is head studs are harden studs and will not stretch at all they will break first. That why like my last head gasket failure for sure was gasket failure being the material de-laminated from the base metal gasket.

 

I'm just finishing up doing a head gasket on a 1994 Dodge 12V Cummins with +150 HP injectors. 

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Blueox01

Blueox01

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On 9/3/2021 at 8:14 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

I won't be buy a Cummins head gasket again. There is many other brands that could be way better.

Only gasket that hasn't leaked on me is Cummins, that Mahle (performance gasket) leaked like a sieve. And that's reusing Cummins head bolts, 3 times. Only bolt I ever had stretch was a main bolt.

On 8/5/2021 at 12:56 PM, 01_Cummins_4x4 said:

@Blueox01 How are the Xotic head studs working out for you? Any issues?

Great so far, but only have about 20k on them.

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Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

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4 hours ago, crf450ish said:

Here's a question...is it normal for there to be some condensation on the factory head bolt threads as they come out?

My studs were nasty looking and smelling when I did hg, I used wire brush and put some anti size one them (not the threads) threads got arp lube. Hoping it'll keep them from corodding. Guessing it's not uncommon.

 

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crf450ish

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On 10/25/2021 at 5:21 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

Even mine had some oil around d them a smelling quite foul. When swapping bolt of studs you might see some coolant weepage as you unclamp the head and then retorque.

Hey is there any write ups that you know of covering replacing injectors, pushrods, and valve springs? I looked in the write up and articles section but didn't see it. Possibly I overlooked it. 

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