I'm Back, Finally! And I have some good questions/ topics

[Silverwolf2691]

31 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

At any rate the CTM you choice from where ever... You going to need to have them flashed and proper VIN number flash to it. Being the PCM and CTM both handle security features. 

 

I did not need to do that on my 1500, but it didn't have security.. Just plug and play..   

[Mopar1973Man]

Wasn't sure. Like myself I've got no security either. Still in all be aware than VIN number might come back to cause system bugs. Rare but does happen. 

[Stanley]

I'll double check the donor truck year then pull ctm and swap then see what changes. BTW I don't have any security features on my rig. Just would really like remote unlock... 

Side note I got the AC system all charged/ oiled up, nice to have air again. Makes my engine lope like crazy and almost kills it all the time though.. 

 

Going to LMC mid July (only 3hr drive-save shipping) and pickup a dash and whatever ever else strikes my fancy 

 

I don't think I have a better option in sway bar stuff so I'm gonna use Genos and throw in that new bezel from them and maybe a gear shift knob 

 

Lights still undecided...

 

Mirrors I'm gonna take the plunge and just go with CPP's brand. 

 

I'll prolly pull the steering box off of the donor 1500 and send it to blue top. They're quicker ratio I'm sure, might like that better than current one.

[dripley]

1 hour ago, Stanley said:

 

Side note I got the AC system all charged/ oiled up, nice to have air again. Makes my engine lope like crazy and almost kills it all the time though.. 

 

The AC should not almost kill the engine. Mine would lope a little at start up but smooth out pretty quick. I have problem with mine at the moment. I accidentally over oiled the system. Have all new part to replace the old with.  How much oil did you add? And did you know how much was in the system?

Edited June 16, 2021 by dripley

[Royal Squire]

3 hours ago, Stanley said:

I'll double check the donor truck year then pull ctm and swap then see what changes. BTW I don't have any security features on my rig. Just would really like remote unlock... 

Side note I got the AC system all charged/ oiled up, nice to have air again. Makes my engine lope like crazy and almost kills it all the time though.. 

 

Going to LMC mid July (only 3hr drive-save shipping) and pickup a dash and whatever ever else strikes my fancy 

 

I don't think I have a better option in sway bar stuff so I'm gonna use Genos and throw in that new bezel from them and maybe a gear shift knob 

 

Lights still undecided...

 

Mirrors I'm gonna take the plunge and just go with CPP's brand. 

 

I'll prolly pull the steering box off of the donor 1500 and send it to blue top. They're quicker ratio I'm sure, might like that better than current one.

Curious if you checked out any cpp reviews?

[Stanley]

2 hours ago, dripley said:

The AC should not almost kill the engine. Mine would lope a little at start up but smooth out pretty quick. I have problem with mine at the moment. I accidentally over oiled the system. Have all new part to replace the old with.  How much oil did you add? And did you know how much was in the system?

I had the entire truck apart, everything was out, got new dryer and evaporator, not saying much but the condenser and compressor was removed rolled around tossed, moved over there lol. Kept everything thing I could capped but initially what could came out...

 

From all the reading from around here I shot in the middle at ~7oz. I work at John deere so I got to use the AC machine

 

It has done this before I changed anything, not to say it wasn't wrong before but jee wizz. It has a lope normally when you let out of it at pretty much any rpm going into neutral or clutch in. With AC on forget it, she drops way down low and almost kills it. Gotta clutch into neutral and hurry up and feather the throttle but even then it still lopes pretty decent after a couple 🪶...

Never really sat and thought WHY? I drove it like like that for years.... But now I'm curious, is it my fueling/ injector setup...possibly?

18 minutes ago, Royal Squire said:

Curious if you checked out any cpp reviews?

No I honestly haven't read any yet, I'll check on that, they look like a decent set, power angle and heat for that price, pretty intriguing.

[Silverwolf2691]

The dragonfire vp44, 6x18s, and .093 lines and tubes probably have something to do with it.. those are 300hp injectors.. and the larger lines and tubes slow down the injection timing. Not saying the only reason but its definitely not helping

[Mopar1973Man]

12 hours ago, Stanley said:

Side note I got the AC system all charged/ oiled up, nice to have air again. Makes my engine lope like crazy and almost kills it all the time though.. 

 

Too much oil in the system.  Really common for guys that use the Walmart big can.

Edited June 16, 2021 by Mopar1973Man

[Silverwolf2691]

@Mopar1973Man,

 

10 hours ago, Stanley said:

I had the entire truck apart, everything was out, got new dryer and evaporator, not saying much but the condenser and compressor was removed rolled around tossed, moved over there lol. Kept everything thing I could capped but initially what could came out...

 

From all the reading from around here I shot in the middle at ~7oz. I work at John deere so I got to use the AC machine

 

I don't think he used the Walmart cans.. 

[Stanley]

Yea no walmart cans here lol. I guess there could some residual oil left maybe, I wouldn't think much though. I agree the fueling etc would have a big impact but why would it lope drastically more when AC is on to the point of it dying almost? Doesnt make sense that a compressor operating would even think about doing that 

 

Maybe I need to try and take a video of it? 

[Silverwolf2691]

Load, its not just the mechanical pumping of the refrigerant its also the electrical load of the magnet of the compressor clutch. Your truck also has anti-stall if you haven't flashed it with a smarty. Its usual job is to keep the engine running while easing off the clutch, but it also comes into play when you load the engine at an idle I believe.

 

With everything fueling wise you have the computer is trying to compensate for it (extra fuel and timing)(compensate meaning maintaining an idle, it has no other idea of anything really) and because you have so much fuel, when anti-stall hits it overfuels, so it cuts fuel, rpms fall too much, add fuel, repeat ad infinitum.. now add two accessories that are adding a load to that and it just gets worse.

 

Just a thought, how much did you fix or replace with the ac system? If you replaced the compressor, a fair portion of them I believe ship with oil in them already. Then, if you added 7oz on top of that you have way too much oil in the system.

 

Did a heater box and ac system rebuild and dash swap on my brothers truck a few months ago. That's how the compressor was. he still hasn't gotten it charged yet either so we still don't know if anything has a leak or something. 

 

Is this the normal sound of your truck, or similar at least?

 

Edited June 16, 2021 by Silverwolf2691

[Dieselfuture]

Could be untistall feature is disabled in ecm ? 

[Mopar1973Man]

Big mistake some do is grab the quickie R134a freon with the little gauge and hose. Do be aware those have oil in the can. Being I've done this too... after awhile the oil builds up using those can and it was nearly locking up and screeching the fan belt. I end up taking the entire system apart and did new o-rings. Blew all the oil out. Pulled the compressor and drained it. Our system only needs 5 ozs of PAG 100 oil. Sad to say I drain out more than 5 ozs. 

 

Oh make sure to drain the accumulator it most likely has a few more ozs than normal. It should be empty as like brand new. 

 

But that's my answer... 

[dripley]

The reason I brought up the over oiling is that I just drowned mine. I did some service work on mine and replaced the accumulator and the orifice tube. I added a couple of pag oil for the new accumulator and pulled a vacuum on it and let sit. I forgot to close the valves on the gauges. Well it lost vacuum and I realized gauges were open so I pulled a vacuum on it again and closed the valves and all was well. Thought after the charge the high pressure was up over 220 psi at idle and about 80* outside. Ran to work that day and when pulling in the driveway at idle the line on the condenser blew apart. While trying to figure out what happened I am looking at vacuum pump and notice almost all the oil was gone from it. I pulled the accumulator and poured 4 oz of oil out of it. About double the oil it should have. When the line blew the engine almost died on off three time in quick succession. Kind of like a lope but very pronounced. Long story short, I have no idea how much oil is in the system so I am replacing everything but the evaporator. I have no idea how much oil is in the compressor or if it took any damage. Find that out this weekend. The compressor should be here tomorrow and it all goes back this weekend. And for what it is worth mine has run just fine on the 12oz walmart freon for the past 4 seasons. 

 

@StanleyI believe your fueling has more to do with the loping than the AC, l

[Stanley]

I really don't think it over oiled it with all I done to system. I can always recover the system, see how much oil is pulled out - it's never the same as initial injection, then go from there. Maybe put half of what comes out back in. It was really bad today on being lopy, actually died while braking up to a right hand turn at stop light before I could feather it out, that was nice trying to mash the pedal to the floor to not hit the guy in front of me, started right up and kept going. Way worse today for sure but I think being in more city traffic is the key there. 

 

Here's the kicker: 

When I bought the truck, nice farm boy, guys says he did pull with it at some point and it has the dragon flow vp, .093 lines/tubes and those nasty 6x18 injectors. I tried super hard to get something from industrial to verify pump but all the numbers I gave them don't correlate to nothing? So long story short I have no idea if it's exactly what was mentioned or not cause I didn't install this particular set... only reason I believe it true is it has some spunk, hazes like a MF at idle, and good God the amount of smoke this thing makes is crazy to not have something lol. I can peg a 60 psi boost gauge too... 64/71/14 turbo

 

Edit: @dripley your story really sounds close to mine far as the lope mishap. I need to just make a silly video, quit forgetting so yall have a reference. @Silverwolf2691 it doesn't exactly sound like that, that's pretty pronounced just sitting at idle, then again I'm supposed to have that Hamilton cam so maybe that's a factor. I do have dual* valve springs*

Edited June 17, 2021 by Stanley
Additional information

[Silverwolf2691]

Most of the time when I hear about lope-ing (loping?) it sounds like the video or slightly more pronounced, more akin to a cammed small block or big block. Usually when you dig through the comments on YouTube it come to light that they have oversize lines and tubes. I've seen .120 lines and tubes and those are a very pronounced slower lope vs .083 or .093 lines and tubes. 

 

I forget/don't know what level the dragonflow pump is, but if its on the same level as a stage 2 and up monster pump, you need the lines, tubes, and injectors to be oversized so that the pump doesn't blow itself up. Supposedly, monster pumps, possibly dragonfire/dragonflow and higher stage lightning pumps, have other modifications that increase the pressure/volume inside the high pressure area of the pump. If you don't have at least .093 lines and tubes, you run a high risk of the pump eating itself because of the extra pressure and flow. 

 

*This is stuff I've read over the past couple of years on CompD. Some of that info is pre 2010 so I don't know how accurate the info is nowadays.*

 

Diesel Auto Power might also be able to help or call Industrial Injection and ask if the oversize lines and tubes are required. If not, you might be able to replace them with standard size stuff and get rid of the stalling and loping. Especially if this is your daily, Which it sounds like it is. 

[Stanley]

23 hours ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

I forget/don't know what level the dragonflow pump is, but if its on the same level as a stage 2 and up monster pump, you need the lines, tubes, and injectors to be oversized so that the pump doesn't blow itself up. Supposedly, monster pumps, possibly dragonfire/dragonflow and higher stage lightning pumps, have other modifications that increase the pressure/volume inside the high pressure area of the pump. If you don't have at least .093 lines and tubes, you run a high risk of the pump eating itself because of the extra pressure and flow. 

This is true, thats what Ive read/learned way back and been using it as a standard. I brought my gopro to work today so Ill set it up for the drive home and see what I can come up with. 

 

Side note, I got home and checked my new u-joints had had done by a local shop just due to time - they where pretty dang hot, what gives.... Pinion seal is leaking so thats on the to do list and I have to replace the rear seal in the transfer case again I'm sure theres more lol I can never win. 

Maybe the pinion is worn out... I might take my traction bars off that might not be helping and hell I might not have them adjusted right

[Silverwolf2691]

@Stanley, What part of the ujoint was hot? The cross or the caps? there is a possibility the yoke got bent on old ujoint removal and is putting pressure on the needles, causing excess friction and heat. other than that I'm not sure. Never felt my ujoints after a run, might be normal..

 

hope you have a good impact for the pinion seal. That nut is on there with an absurd amount of torque, 500-600 ft/lbs if memory serves. 

 

rear seal on the tcase is relatively easy, just make sure the weep hole is facing down when installed on the truck.

 

not sure about the traction bars.. I would think they would help because things aren't moving as much. But the pinion and tcase are the next things to move, if only the clearance of the pinion bearing and the transmission mount. might explain the wear in the seals.. You have 140k in your sig, is that still close?

[Stanley]

The caps and surrounding areas were hot, them being hot is a tell tell sign they are bad along with vibration, I (think) i can feel a little vibration which leads me to conclude. I rebuilt the entire transfer case myself which isnt terribly difficult, the rear seal is easy too, just dont know why it is failing with less than a 1,000 miles on it... hmm, Ill replace and go from there. I guess I dont really know the significance of the hole in the bottom, I think I put it at the bottom from reference but??

At work we have all kinds of big goodies! 3/4in and 1in impacts, torque multiplier if needed, got a RAD gun and a HYtorq - one goes to roughly 1250 ft lbs the other one goes to 5k or 6k ft lbs. Lots of fun stuff I get to play with 

 

Yea it is literally about to hit 150k either today or tomorrow lol. I"m gonna replace the transmission mount while I'm at it long with those seals. Whats the torque spec on the pinion? Or impact back on - to which Ive read some guys do - Usually torque spec matters especially on things that have bearings  

I'll have to research the proper way to adjust traction bars also... 

[Silverwolf2691]

Tail shaft seal on the tcase has a hole to allow water to drain out I believe. The actual seal is farther up there it presses into the case. The black external part is a bumper for impacts and a buffer for water. Check the slip yoke for burrs or worn down areas. 

 

are the u joints new or are they older? I may have been under the assumption that they were new.. 

2 hours ago, Stanley said:

At work we have all kinds of big goodies! 3/4in and 1in impacts, torque multiplier if needed, got a RAD gun and a HYtorq - one goes to roughly 1250 ft lbs the other one goes to 5k or 6k ft lbs. Lots of fun stuff I get to play with 

  

   Jeebus...