Hey all. So was cruising down a dirt road here at about 30-40 and gave her some fuel and tires broke loose a bit. With that, I got a bouncing vibration in the rear end and I’m assuming it was axle wrap. Is this normal since I have higher HP than stock with no trac bars? It does the same if I break lose on pavement too. I’m trying to figure out if it’s just the added HP or if something is worn and needs replacing.

I dont get any vibration or bouncing when I spin the tires, but I'm also not trying to turn 35's.  

Same here, I'm only spinning 30 inch tires.

My solution to this is to own a truck that doesn't have enough power to spin the tires 

7 minutes ago, LorenS said:

My solution to this is to own a truck that doesn't have enough power to spin the tires 

Not good. I would rather be able to have as much power as I wished and be able to reach that tire spin point than breaking driveline or transmissions. The idea of increasing power without tire spin can be very damaging typically transmissions explode or transfer cases. I've seen both locally. Typically big oversized tire with ratios lower than 3.55 to the ground. Difference im 3.69 to the ground more torque but a point of release at the tires.

 

Yes ill admit I've broke a few transmission too but I didn't blow the case like I've seen on few other trucks again common mistake big oversized tires and transmission explodes manual or autos doesn't matter.

46 minutes ago, LorenS said:

My solution to this is to own a truck that doesn't have enough power to spin the tires 

 

I agree.  At least not on dry pavement.  

 

- John

10 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

The idea of increasing power without tire spin can be very damaging

I guess thankfully I don't have significant increased power! Stock injectors. My tires are 265, but aspect ratio is only 65 vs. 70 so are around 30.5" diameter.

Knowing that then you ratio is 3.67 to the ground which is good. With 265mm of tread face you should stick pretty good and hold more power than I could just be aware because more traction more stress on driveline stuff. Another reason I like 245s or the 235s I ran previously less rotational mass, less power required to roll.

 

Point of reference my current setup on chip coated asphalt I can't spin even with wire tap. Smooth asphalt with wire tap could break loose. Again I normally don't run wire tap but level 2 for daily. On level 2 or level 3 is very safe and be very rare to spin unless it wet or snowy. Between 3.69 ratio to the ground and 245s it does very well less rotational mass and high MPG be no one has caught my 28.04 MPG highmark yet. Catch me if you can. It's the bump of power when the wire tap and Canbus cross 15 PSI it will hit pretty hard on level 7.

On 4/10/2022 at 6:12 PM, YeaImDylan said:

Hey all. So was cruising down a dirt road here at about 30-40 and gave her some fuel and tires broke loose a bit. With that, I got a bouncing vibration in the rear end and I’m assuming it was axle wrap. Is this normal since I have higher HP than stock with no trac bars? It does the same if I break lose on pavement too. I’m trying to figure out if it’s just the added HP or if something is worn and needs replacing.

I have slightly smaller tyres at 33" ish mud terrains I get no bouncing vibe at all if the tyres spin on dirt roads or wet tarmac, I never spin tyres on dry roads ever 

 

I'd be checking shock absorbers and shock bushes as well as spring eye bushes 

They are called Caltracs. No wrap, just *** to pavement.

I used to sell caltracs here in the UK but now I've got a lathe, plasma cutter and a damn good mig if I needed them I think I'd make a set but like I say I don't get anything resembling axle wrap anyway.

I life right in the bottom of a short but steep hill with a crossroads right at the top and there is no way to rollover the crossroads it's a stop, pulling off just the truck or with my  workshop trailer with the road damp I spin both rear tyres, I get no bounce or wrap at all, In fact if I turn left some council fool set a large steel manhole cover right where the drivers rear tyre goes tyre spins but no bounce

3 hours ago, jag said:

They are called Caltracs. No wrap, just *** to pavement.

Are those fully bolt on? No welding required?

1 hour ago, YeaImDylan said:

Are those fully bolt on? No welding required?

Looks like just a bolt on system.  Dont look too bad of a system if you need them.  

https://calvertracing.com/product/caltracs-hd-5450-80/

1 hour ago, hdpwipmonkey said:

Looks like just a bolt on system.  Dont look too bad of a system if you need them.  

https://calvertracing.com/product/caltracs-hd-5450-80/

How do I find if I have a Dana 80 or 70? Would it be stamped on the pumpkin?

Correct, bolt on. They just don't prevent wheel hop, they plant you backside to the road. Once set right, the plant & pull is rathe quite easy to notice. Bars are to be kept straight. out of adjustment & the will swing you in a circle real fast.

Measure the size of your tubes, 3.5 is 70 & 4.0" is 80. The cover will tell also.

 

13 minutes ago, YeaImDylan said:

How do I find if I have a Dana 80 or 70? Would it be stamped on the pumpkin?

Go here and input your VIN and it will spit out a build sheet.  It should be listed in the build sheet.

https://fcacommunity.force.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing

 

This is 1 of the best setups. & yes your can still haul. Don't go by setting them up if you get them as per their instructions I will tell you how to set them up properly. Just ask.

How about an article on install and setup? How about listing the vendor you got it from in the vendor section? (Hint hint hint)

I just went directly to Caltracs for the best deal. Install is a little fun because of the aluminum bushings you need to insert in the front spring eye hole. Other than that, just make sure when you tighten the u-bolts that they are the same distance from the front spring eyes. To tight on back u-bolt or to tight on front u-bolt will change angle of rear hole on u-bolts will make you do the Macarena, fast. I can tell you how to adjust them when the time comes. IF you set them per instructions, they will be loaded all the time knocking the kidneys out of you. This way they are always set for track. I don't drive a track everyday. Once set right, you will notice how straight & hard biting they are. 

I have CPP's 60" bolt on traction bars, work great, no more axle wrap for me. However I highly do not recommend buying from them anymore!