Troubleshooting dead end on dead pedal. Apologize for a long thread in advance

[1ngenro]

I had to adapt to the situation. I thought i lost pressure as well, but i loosened injector 3 and 4 and the fuel spewed out. I am perplexed. Does anybody know why this would happen? Why would adding carb cleaner to the intake to the booster allow the truck to turn on?

[dripley]

is it still running? does only run when you spray it with the carb cleaner or do you just have todo that to start it?

[Mopar1973Man]

I wouldn't spray any kind of flamable material in the intake... As ISX has shown to us the grid heater can get above 500*F and could ignite most all flamable materials in the intake tract with explosive force (possible). If you got injection line loosen they should spray like a power washer while cranking not dribbling on the manifold. If it only dribbling then there is more air in the system yet. Because when a injection pump is primed up it will produce right around 4K to 5K PSI and yes it looks exactly like a power washer under the hood...

[1ngenro]

dripley, yes, it is running. It hasn't given me any problems starting up since friday. any ideas? Mopar1973man, yes, it looked like a power washer had been under the hood. All,I have eliminated the TIMBO Apps Sensor. I am getting all the correct voltages. I am at square one again. I am now noticing a strange sound coming from under the hood. It kind've sounds like those ticket eating machines at chuck-e-cheese. Am i just paranoid and think everything is wrong with my truck? Any feedback would be appreciated, including any comments regarding my state of

[1ngenro]

Any additional feedback? Anything else i need to check or should check?

--- Update to the previous post...

BTW, i am still having dead pedal issues.

[Mopar1973Man]

Hmmm... If the Timbo's APPS is installed and working properly then it going to most like be a Injection pump problem... But I hate point a finger at something without a for sure bet... If there was a injection pump error code I would run with it... But so far nothing...

[1ngenro]

Did the ECM go bad? It would not throw a code correct? How do i check it? I pulled a wiring diagram from GENO's Garage. I noticed that there are some datalink relays between the ECM and the vp44. Is there anybody out there that is familiar with how they communicate?

[Mopar1973Man]

Here is the wiring for the ECM and VP44...

There is only 1 power supply relay located in the PDC... But if this relay fails it will throw a P1689 code...

If the ECM fails it typically throws a P0606 code....

If you can find a Cummins Shop that has a cheater box that plugs into the VP44 it will isolate the VP44 by itself and allow you to start the truck and select idle or high idle mods. So that a way of testing the VP44 without a ECM present...

As for testing a ECM the only way I know is to replace it...

[dripley]

i just went thru the ecm thing about 3 months ago. i had all kinds of low and high voltage codes on almost every sensor on the engine and it never thru the code for the ecm until i had it rebuilt. i had to send it back to get it rebuilt again. they fixed under warranty, but i sat around for 5 weeks until i got it back. it works fine now, but the quality of the rebuild is in question. at least i have a 5 year warranty.

[1ngenro]

do you think that was your problem? do you still get dead pedal? I think its a computer communication problem. The two computers need to be sync'd. Do you know any diesel techs that can confirm this? I was told the ECM needs to be re-programmed so that it can communicate with the VP44, due to the new fueling standards for emissions. How much of this is true?

[cajflynn]

I think he just needed the noise isolator.

[dripley]

do you think that was your problem? do you still get dead pedal? I think its a computer communication problem. The two computers need to be sync'd. Do you know any diesel techs that can confirm this? I was told the ECM needs to be re-programmed so that it can communicate with the VP44, due to the new fueling standards for emissions. How much of this is true?

[1ngenro]

dripley, Did you get a code? How did you know that your ECM went bad? Has anyone ever looked into how the ECM communicates with the other components?

[dripley]

dripley, Did you get a code? How did you know that your ECM went bad? Has anyone ever looked into how the ECM communicates with the other components?

[1ngenro]

I finally had the chance to do some research on the net. I found this thread on DTR where this guy gave direction on how to check the ECM using an Analog meter. My ECM is okay according to his direction. Additionally, i cleaned the grounds next to the battery, man that was pretty bad. I also cleaned the ground at the PCM. I unplugged the PCM harnasses to check for corrosion, which i found them to be okay. I now have the abs light and brake light on. I peformed the above tasks after i checked the ECM and unhooked the batteries. Any ideas?

[DieselD24]

I was under the impression you should never use an analog meter to test ECM, ECM related circuits, and anything under the voltage regulator?

[1ngenro]

:doh:Where did you hear that from?

[DieselD24]

DVOM's with 10 megohm impedance are recommended when testing low-current circuits. This is necessary to limit the effect the unit might have on the component or circuit being tested. From what I've been told, analog units when testing in parallel will cause a spike when removed, thus damaging the circuit integrity because of the lower impedance analogs have compared to digital metersThis is an example of why they install a spike suppressor, aka Diode or one-way check valve on A/C clutches. It absorbs or re-directs the spike from a collapsing magnetic field, such as when the clutch is switched off. This spike suppressor prevents damage to voltage sensitive components, ECM being the major one.I have yet to use an analog in anything I test for that reason. Except for 12 volt application, like exterior lights and such. Test light comes handy for that.

[1ngenro]

I looked at my history and i did not get the ECm check from DTR. i got the information from ECMtogo website, which had the following information on diagnosing ECM functionality (insider tip for chrysler vehicles), which is as follows:

First assess your symptoms.

Is your car starting and running, but stalls or seems to not idle right.

If so, is the check engine light illuminated MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) on intermittent or all the time?

If so, what are the MIL diagnosis codes? Try pulling ECM and looking and smelling for burns. Have your ECM tested to be sure it is functioning properly. If the ECM is bad, have it repaired or replaced with known remand or new unit. see www.ECMtogo.com

If ECM is OK, then follow the error codes it gives, and check the appropriate malfunction (i.e.: check engine light coded you had bad oxygen sensor, try unplugging it and restarting car to see if any change in running or the MIL. If no change, try putting a known good used unit in, or buy new unit if in your budget.)

Have ECM scanned in car by authorized tech with proper scan tools specific to application (only after installing or verifying you have a good ECM). Most manufactures have specific tools to there equipment even though there are many scan tools that can do basic diagnosis. This scan should show what elements are giving you the problems. There are some ways to check error codes without scan tool. Refer to manual for key to specific application.

This insider tip is for Mitsubishi & Chrysler Vehicles and is quite helpful for diagnosing or testing your ECM. You need a analog volt/ohmmeter, put the testers on pin 1 and pin 10 (top right & bottom left pin) of diagnosis ECM scan cable harness. This harness is inside the cab area, usually in drivers side upper left of drivers kick panel. The sweeping motion left to right means ECM is OK. Sweep right to left means reverse testers to pin 10 and pin 1. A movement to the right without bounce or return means bad ECM.

Many models also have ways to check the MIL codes including Honda, Acura, Mazda etc have an indicator light on the ecm or will illuminate the check engine light in series indicating the first digit then the second digit will follow and the indicators will repeat.

Any comments?

[dripley]

thru all of my problems i could never find any one who could tell me of any way to test the ecm. the local dealer told me to bring it in and they would go thru the process of elimination to find the problem. all i could see was a lot of cash flying out of my pocket. that ende up nhappening any way.