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Troubleshooting dead end on dead pedal. Apologize for a long thread in advance

1ngenro
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DieselD24

DieselD24

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My suggestion would be if you do use an analog voltmeter, test at your own risk. I wouldn't in a million years use one, but that's just me. There's only a few instances in which it would be appropriate to use an analog meter. I'm sure there's a reason behind it that I don't know of yet.Who knows...

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1ngenro

1ngenro

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yes, test at your own risk. I just spoke to John with ECM togo and he advised me that a better way to test your ECM is to pay the big bucks:spend: and have an authorized dealer test the ECM:cookoo:. As of right now he said that there are no parts whatsoever, therefore if you have a problem with your ECM, you are SOL :cry:. as far as the break light and parking break light, was that due to me unhooking the pcm wiring harnesses? Why would this happen i disconnected the batteries? Any feedback would be appreciated.

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1ngenro

1ngenro

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no luck, thanks for asking. yes, as soon as i reconnected the harness, than i reconnected the batteries and made sure everything was still working and the lights just stayed on. Do you think disconnecting the batteries for some time will reset the ECM & PCM? Or do i need to take it in and have them re-program? Additionally, I am beginning to suspect that maybe i have a timing issue with the VP44 i just installed, which is why my dead pedal will not go away. I think if i install a noise filter, my feeling is that it would only put a band-aid on the problem and not fix it completely. I have read in other posts that it fixes the problem, but the problems tend to come back. The noise comes from somewhere or something. Does anybody think that maybe i need to look into replacing the alternator?

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DieselD24

DieselD24

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That is weird. Have you taken a look at the switch itself? It might be staying closed, thus activating the circuit. Also, check grounds, connections, condition of wires, anything at this point. As far as the noise isolator goes, you answered your own question. I've heard good and bad from them, lasting anywhere from a few months to as long as 2 years all depending on what the actual problem is. It's only a band-aid.I don't know what kind of stator windings are used in our style generators, but a new alternator will only be good until one of the diodes begins to leak and eventually takes out our APPS. Again, installing a noise isolator is a band-aid fix until it gets worse. You need to find out what the main culprit is, as it's giving you hell. :mad::mad::mad:I've heard that when an ECM on these trucks goes bad, it throws an "ECM Failure" code, I believe it's 606. I don't know if it's true or not, but that doesn't mean it won't throw one either. Wish I could be of more help.

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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The only thing I know that causes :brake:.... If flashing its a parking brake issue. The pedal is not coming all the way back up... If solid you got a hydraulic issues or ABS issue usually with the :abs: present too... If the ABS light is also present you got to check your speed sensors... This code will not reset with disconnecting the batteries you must drive the vehicle to reset. More here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/abs/abs.htm

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cajflynn

cajflynn

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My truck runs great with the noise filter. If the filter last two years then it will outlast the apps anyway. I am not sure I believe the band aid idea. What if the problem is a lack of grounding? Then it would be a fix and not a band aid. It is a $20 fix. What can it hurt to try? I replaced my entire fuel system trying to fix the dead pedal issue. Nothing worked until I put the isolator on. Your situation seems awfully similar.

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DieselD24

DieselD24

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Agreed! For $20 you can't go wrong if it solves the issue. I haven't dealt with the isolator myself personally, but when the isolator doesn't last for very long, then you have got bigger problems. I'm just more the type that believes in going down to the main root of the cause, rather than just guessing, though I have done it. Won't lie there... :)

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1ngenro

1ngenro

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I might have found my problem. I was running some diagnostics on the apps harness using the article posted on this forum. I have continuity between ground and blue/white wire. It says to fix short. How do I do that? Doesn't that wire blue/white go back to ecm?Any feedback would be appreciated.

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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I might have found my problem. I was running some diagnostics on the apps harness using the article posted on this forum. I have continuity between ground and blue/white wire. It says to fix short. How do I do that? Doesn't that wire blue/white go back to ecm?

Any feedback would be appreciated.

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Basically all you need to do is test each wire from APPS plug to the ECM plug for zero ohm from one point to the other (should show 0 ohms).

Then test again testing for ohms between each wire and ground (should show infinite ohms). If your see flow at this point start looking for harness that has been rubbing the block or sharp edge.

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Mike, Do you know what circuit numbers 1-25 correspond to? Do they correspond to previous circuit diagrams postings? Can you please send me what those circuit numbers correspond to? I thank you in advance.

Those are the pin numbers of the ECM... But I was showing the larger wiring map to show the ground from the other sensors that connect at S165... But the other smaller wiring diagram will do for you... :smart:
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