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Injector Install

JOHNFAK
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cajflynn

cajflynn

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I love that John cannot leave well enough alone. He won't be happy till that enormous trailer does 70 over mountain passes. I wish I could do that with my truck. He is our own very r&d guy and we are better for it. Keep up the detailed research John. I for one hope you pass me on the hills soon!I have had 75's and 100's and if you want more power the 100's are great. The only thing you will need is a bigger turbo. You have an hx-35 so all you need is the bigger turbo for twins and you won't have to worry about egt's. Let me know when you are ready for that. I have an extra big turbo laying around...

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JOHNFAK

JOHNFAK

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ha ! :thumbup2:Yeah - I really started out just wanting lower EGTs ....... and thought methanol seemed like a good bang for buck. Then thought would like some extra power when I put my foot down . - not often - but fun when you do. So with that came the +75's ........... and a HX35 to come to help handle that extra fuel.Will see what happens - I figured worst case I can remove most of this stuff and go back to stock injectors and no MWI ..... and not be out too much $$ since I am getting on sale / second hand. :) You gonna meet me for a drink sometime your stuck near TEMPE AZ cat ??? :tongue:

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Prowelder

Prowelder

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The last couple times I have done just this as the suggested torque was not enough to keep em from leaking on my 02.:thumbup2:

Yeah I just tighten them until they feel tight. Sometimes one or two will need a little more, but usually I get it the first time. I've never used a crowfoot to tighten them, just a 19 mm wrench.:thumbup2: As far as temps go, I don't really have a problem with my pump untapped. I could see if you were towing a lot they would probably warm up pretty good so more air is certainly needed. I'm going to be tapping my pump after Dec. 14th so I'll keep everyone updated on how warm it gets then!:thumbup2: If you need any help or pictures on installing the injectors, just let me know. I've got a full write up on CF and can post up some pictures on here if need be.:thumbup2:
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burb31

burb31

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https://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2499&page=1首 I used to install the vp44 about once a week at a shop i worked at in 2004. I always used a 3/4 snap on angle wrench and a 19 mm stubby. but what was really nice when u needed a good bite was this window socket from matco tools.....back then it was 45$....now its 55$...but a good tool to have....check it out:thumbup2: part#mst9910
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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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https://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2499&page=1首 I used to install the vp44 about once a week at a shop i worked at in 2004. I always used a 3/4 snap on angle wrench and a 19 mm stubby. but what was really nice when u needed a good bite was this window socket from matco tools.....back then it was 45$....now its 55$...but a good tool to have....check it out:thumbup2: part#mst9910

Now that I've seen that I could make my own for less...
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burb31

burb31

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yeah....well didnt have time to make one then...needed it for the job and the tool truck was right there.I had thought of it before though....this thing has a pretty thick wall...not sure if the home made version would flex too muchits not really needed for the lines at the head....but down at the pump is nice

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JOHNFAK

JOHNFAK

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I didn't have any problem watching you do it so I don't know why your complaining.. :lmao2:

Haha - me - complain ??? :moon:

--- Update to the previous post...

alright...what size injectors did you get fro jaime???he has some sweet deals going on them

Yeah I sold my RV275's and chaned into some +75's.

Think that will be a good balance with water cooling and HX35. (Just gotta find one now).

You getting some ?

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Prowelder

Prowelder

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Funny I got the pump end totally figured out with standard open end wrench... Its the head connection I complain about... 5 and 6 are the bad ones...

Other than just being hard to reach, they aren't too bad. On number 6 I just use my shorty wrench. It's the front ones that are a little bit of a pain b/c my Tunnel Ram makes for a little less room to turn the wrench. Just takes a little longer and you have to flip the wrench on every turn!!:ahhh:
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rburks

rburks

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Funny I got the pump end totally figured out with standard open end wrench... Its the head connection I complain about... 5 and 6 are the bad ones...

Michael..the last time i had my lines off i removed the lifting eye from the back of the head.....Man..did that make it ever easier to get on #5 fuel lines Richie:thumbup2:
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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Michael..the last time i had my lines off i removed the lifting eye from the back of the head.....Man..did that make it ever easier to get on #5 fuel lines

Richie:thumbup2:

Mine got to come out because the lift ring has my crankcase vent zip tied to it... :lmao2:

As for 5 and 6 still kind of hard because of the simple fact my wrench length is what is getting me I can turn maybe 15* and then flip the wrench 180* and turn again the flip again... Now if I went out and got a set of stubby wrenches... (Pretty! :stuned:)

Posted Image

Now you'd be able to get back under the cowling and really turn lines... :thumbup2:

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JOHNFAK

JOHNFAK

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ok - got the new ones in late last night - took much longer than without ISX here - ha !! Plus I forgot to torque down 1,2,4 on reinstall and then I was like - wtf - with the leaky fuel. Looks dry now.So a couple questions1) How would you know about fuel leak inside - would simply removing valve cover and starting be enough ?? Would it sound really heavy 'miss' ? 2) Ever heard of removing injectors without removing the lines. I heard of one go going straight in via the valve colver - with just loosened lines. Guessing he had enough flex to pull the crossover tubes 1/4" or so to get out and get in the injectors - that would save o much time if you could :)3) What do you use for torquing and removing the VP44 connections. I had a hell of a time with the 2 middle bolts as they are so close to the other 2 injectors. Ended up using a crowsfoot but not much better - this was way worse than #6 for me :)

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ISX

ISX

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ok - got the new ones in late last night - took much longer than without ISX here - ha !! Plus I forgot to torque down 1,2,4 on reinstall and then I was like - wtf - with the leaky fuel. Looks dry now.

So a couple questions

1) How would you know about fuel leak inside - would simply removing valve cover and starting be enough ?? Would it sound really heavy 'miss' ? If it leaked it would probably not fire the injector and miss, otherwise you wouldn't know if the leak wasn't big enough, other than looking in there somehow.

2) Ever heard of removing injectors without removing the lines. I heard of one go going straight in via the valve colver - with just loosened lines. Guessing he had enough flex to pull the crossover tubes 1/4" or so to get out and get in the injectors - that would save o much time if you could :)

Sounds plausible enough.

3) What do you use for torquing and removing the VP44 connections. I had a hell of a time with the 2 middle bolts as they are so close to the other 2 injectors. Ended up using a crowsfoot but not much better - this was way worse than #6 for me :)

Are you talking about the injector line nuts on the back of the VP44? We put the back 3 lines on and tightened them all up, then we put the other 3 lines on.. Did you put all 6 on at once?

There's my stab at it.
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JOHNFAK

JOHNFAK

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YeahFunny enough the only real issues I had was with the VP44 end.The sets of 3 lines 1,2,4 and 3,5,6The middle bolt is hard to get to as its blocked off by other two on each side - so I found it real hard to get anything on it to tighten/loosten. I was using a stubby wrench - but still not enough clearance - must be a better way ???

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