• Announcements

    • Mopar1973Man

      Google Authenticator   04/23/2017

      Mopar1973Man.Com will now start using two-factor authentication to protect users accounts. All staff, donors, and customers will be required to use the Google Authenticator which you can download for free. Just scan the QR barcode and the app will provide the lock code. If you attempt to guess the code it will lock you out of the site. So please don't guess at the code. This will only appear to users that are accessing mission critical data to the member or the site.   I also enable the question and answers. If anyone has other ideas for question please PM to me and I'll add them to the system as well. The Question and Answers work similar and you must answer the questions to gain access to a protected area.  

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

blk90s13

When do you buy a new starter ?

34 posts in this topic

when all it does is click click ? and when I get under the truck and hit it with a wrench while someone cranck it it would spin and start the truck ? last night my starter took a crap :duh: yet more :spend::spend: to throw at the truck :cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

99 percent of the time contacts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Local auto zone stocks them for $149 and a life time warranty I think thats the easier safer way to go since I gotta pull it off the truck either way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do the "Super Size Start Contacts" that have 90% more surface area make it crank a lot faster? Mine doesn't crank any faster with 5 batteries than it does with 2 and think the small contacts might be the reason. When I put that many batteries on my ford, it would crank over at idle speed :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The contacts are more Meaty or heavy duty. They should hold up better OEM. To spin stater faster you need more AMPS, until you fry your starter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The contacts are more Meaty or heavy duty. They should hold up better OEM. To spin stater faster you need more AMPS, until you fry your starter.

The amps are there, I have several wires going to it. I am pretty sure that contact is just screwing me over.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you replace the starter when you can no longer rebuild the motor itself, worn out commutator mainly, brushes can be replaced and even the commutator can be trued up easily enough on a lathe. if the motor shorts out and burns up in the process well then you got grounds to replace it, be easier than rewiring at that point.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Local auto zone stocks them for $149 and a life time warranty I think thats the easier safer way to go since I gotta pull it off the truck either way.

Only partially correct - ie the price quote may be correct. Autozone starters are historically problematic. You are better off to check your contacts while it is off and replace them. Mine were shot at 110,000 mi & starter is going fine at 156,000. Only the contacts in the solenoid have been replaced. Cost was <$35. Time only slightly more than R&R.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I tried to take my starter apart but the long bolts snapped in the housing, so had no choice but to replace the starter. It is a Champion with a 3 year warranty, pricier here in Canada, around $300, but has been rock solid for around a year now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm surprised your starter didn't fry your fuel solenoid. I've changed my contacts once. It was an easy fix. The hardest part for me was getting to the bolts on the starter. A ratcheting 10mm made the work easier.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm surprised your starter didn't fry your fuel solenoid. I've changed my contacts once. It was an easy fix. The hardest part for me was getting to the bolts on the starter. A ratcheting 10mm made the work easier.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used to have an 1984 Bronco II that would go through a starter a year. Tried NAPA, a year later back for another. Did that twice, then went to Autozone. Same thing, just a lifetime warranty instead of NAPA's one year warranty. I figure I will be doing my Cummins gefore too much longer at 140k miles.:cummins:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why buy a starter for $150 to $200 when 99% of the time is is bad contacts, or repace a altenator for about the same when it is most likely bad brushes or bearings. Vacuum pump and Power steering pump 99% of the time bad seals all can be rebuilt at home for a little time. Cummins are Medium Duty Truck engines so things are made to be rebuilt not replaced. When I saw that Geneo's Gurage sells these kits mostly for less than $50. I knew that would be the way that I would go. :doh:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why buy a starter for $150 to $200 when 99% of the time is is bad contacts, or repace a altenator for about the same when it is most likely bad brushes or bearings. Vacuum pump and Power steering pump 99% of the time bad seals all can be rebuilt at home for a little time. Cummins are Medium Duty Truck engines so things are made to be rebuilt not replaced. When I saw that Geneo's Gurage sells these kits mostly for less than $50. I knew that would be the way that I would go. :doh:

depends on how far gone it is but if you inspect it often enough you can catch it and do these fixes. if you dont replace the brushes before they get too short then commutator damage can result, not as easy to fix.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

depends on how far gone it is but if you inspect it often enough you can catch it and do these fixes. if you dont replace the brushes before they get too short then commutator damage can result, not as easy to fix.

You are 100% correct, it is all about preventive maintenance, the Cummins will last between 500,000 and 1,000,000 miles, but the accessories will need to be serviced many times during that time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally got some time to change it, I bought the kit from Larry B which was kind enough to send me a pair of gloves and a bandage ( non latex ) haha It was super easy to change out even the top bolt on the starter was very easy to get out :thumb1: , the old contacts were GONE one side was almost not there anymore

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
post-198-138698182298_thumb.jpgDo you think I was pushing the issue of my starter clicking? Started about 2-3 weeks ago, I ordered a rebuilt kit for it immediately. Well, Last night went to the movies and it was the worst it has been ever, then wehen I left it did the same. So, that was a BIG hint to get thew contacts changed! Not bad at all to do! Glad I did it before I was stranded somewhere!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine has been clicking for a while now, i need to get this kit ordered a put on one of these days before im really stranded lol-Jordan-

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine has been clicking for a while now, i need to get this kit ordered a put on one of these days before im really stranded lol -Jordan-

:punish:Well get with it... I know you crippled up with your injuries but there is nothing stopping you from ordering the parts... Good ol' LarryB has them... :thumbup2:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bought a new about 2.5 years ago when mine starting clicking. AZ or AA dont rember. But the new cost $95 and the rebuilt cost $100, or there abouts, anyway the new one was cheaper and looked better and i bought it. Think it had a life time warranty but I lost the receipt.:cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites