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The moment you've all been waiting for "SPORT/QUAD HEADLIGHT CONVERSION"


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Just got me a set of Sports... YAY!!! One question here... why is there a need to have 4 relay's.?.?. "A 100 watt bulb draws about 100w/12v=8.5ish amps." right.?.?. and my "stock" bulbs are not 100 watts each sooooo... is it just good over kill to do a relay per light... voltage drop... etc.?.?. Ralleylights.com doesn't show the diode relay anymore... they have a standard "kit" http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=3945 that is a non diode relay... is the diode really that important.?.?. Thanks guys :hyper:

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Just got me a set of Sports... YAY!!! One question here... why is there a need to have 4 relay's.?.?. "A 100 watt bulb draws about 100w/12v=8.5ish amps." right.?.?. and my "stock" bulbs are not 100 watts each sooooo... is it just good over kill to do a relay per light... voltage drop... etc.?.?. Ralleylights.com doesn't show the diode relay anymore... they have a standard "kit" http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=3945 that is a non diode relay... is the diode really that important.?.?. Thanks guys :hyper:

The diode-optioned relay is to protect EMF back-feed, but should not be an issue, unless you hook jumper cables up backwards. At that point, however, you'll have more to deal with than relays. :cry::cookoo:

..
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  • 3 months later...

Whoops, spelled it wrong. http://www.truckcustomizers.com/products/brite-box-chevy-ford-dodge-toyota-trucks.html On another note, I still don't have the harness so I never use the high beams. I have maybe 10 minutes total burn time on them and my driver side has burned out. Last time I was showing someone how they worked, like spot lights, there was a black spot in the driver side that couldn't be seen from outside but I could see it from the driver seat. I was driving last night and messing with them and the black spot would fill in with light after a few seconds of darkness. I did it a few times and then it blew. These are the high beam bulbs that Daniel Stern recommends for our trucks on his site. Guess it really doesn't matter but I would think a bulb should last longer than 15 minutes.

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Whoops, spelled it wrong. http://www.truckcustomizers.com/products/brite-box-chevy-ford-dodge-toyota-trucks.html On another note, I still don't have the harness so I never use the high beams. I have maybe 10 minutes total burn time on them and my driver side has burned out. Last time I was showing someone how they worked, like spot lights, there was a black spot in the driver side that couldn't be seen from outside but I could see it from the driver seat. I was driving last night and messing with them and the black spot would fill in with light after a few seconds of darkness. I did it a few times and then it blew. These are the high beam bulbs that Daniel Stern recommends for our trucks on his site. Guess it really doesn't matter but I would think a bulb should last longer than 15 minutes.

On the website it only has options for trucks without the sport package and if you do this swap it swaps it to sport right? Sorry if I'm getting it wrong just want to make sure!
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I am trying to do this conversion myself also, is it possible to use a relay without a diode and add a diode later ? Looks pretty easy. If so what 2 posts would it go between ?

This could make the relays under $10 apiece

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Relay-5ZMU4 With

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036268&CA_6C15C=107608655&utm_source=BZ&utm_campaign=product&utm_medium=CSE

Thanks Rick

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  • 2 months later...

man that is great work and im sure tough at times. thank you very much. but now i must ask a dumb question what is the difference in sport headlights from i guess the norm headlights?:shrug:

The Britebox kit from Geno's Garage is what I put on my '01 2500 CTD. Nothing easier, works great, PLENTY of light now.
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  • 1 year later...

Guys,  I have updated thIs Write up with some Part numbers  that have changed or been replaced, as well as "ADDED" information to answer a lot of your alls questions regarding this MOD.

  Most important = The relays w/diode are no longer available at least from My knowledge bur they are in 30Amp version which will be fine as it is still way over need amperage needed. The diode "IS NOT REQUIRED" But is a safety to keep EF back thru system.

YOU CAN USE STANDARD SPST RELAYS. I PREFER DUAL 87 OUTPUTS BUT YOU CAN USE SINGLE 87 OUTS YOU WILL JUST HAVE TO SPICE THEM TOGETHER

  A SPDT RELAY W/87# &87A OUTS WILL NOT WORK ON THIS HARNESS

 

New part numbers are listed in edited original write up 

Edited by rburks
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  • 1 year later...

Shouldn't be too hard, just a little more wire. That's what I'm planning on doing for my HID retrofit. You can also put a diode between the 2 relays so that the high beams will also power on the low beams for quad bulb high beams. One consideration with a single fuse is all lights will be tied to a fuse. I'm going to run a fuse for each relay so that only one set of lights will be out if a fuse blows. Any rectifier diode will work, like a 3A from radio shack. If it's reversed it'll light the highs with the low, instead of the lows with the high ;-)

 

Also, if anyone is interested in doing a HID retro on the cheap, I can help. I think I have spent a total of $85 and am about to put it together. The best cheap chinese components I could find.

Edited by beren
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I converted my headlight system to the sport package system last July.  I chose to use two fuses and four relays for the following reasons:

 

*  one fuse and two relays per side for safety

*  one fuse and two relays per side for lower amp draw (10 amp per side with four high beam bulbs activated)

*  two relays per side using both 87 an 87a terminals on both relays so low and high beams are not mixed when switching from      low to high or vice versa.

 

I wired my headlights per OEM specs and Daniel Stearns recommendation.  Even though I purchased my Sport Package headlights at HeadLights Depot.com, the greatly improved lighting is very good on low beam and excellent on high beam.  I am not talking about how bright they are, but how well they light up the roadway and surrounding area without impacting other drivers.

 

I think one important step is overlooked much of the time and that is to perform a voltage test at the headlight bulb when the project is complete. Most bulbs manufacturers require 13.2 volts AT THE BULB to perform to their specs.  This means making the check with engine running and headlights on.  Both test leads should be placed at the connector on the bulb for most accurate reading.  In my case the low beams showed 13.4 volts and the high beams showed 13.2 volts.

 

In the diagram below I interfaced the factory schematic with my modifications.  I used 14 gauge wire in the relayed part of the circuit.  The schematic works for either two bulb or four bulb system.  The factory part of the schematic makes it easier to find wires however you decide to do the project.

 

- John

Head Light Relay John's Truck 12-23-2016 with Text.jpg

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  • 1 year later...
  • Owner

Sorry, it looks like they are photobucket pictures. Nothing I can do about that. I can tell you that after having a set of Sport Headlights and modified with the relays didn't do much good. Beam pattern was still narrow and not very good.

 

 

Basically, you need 4 relays, 2 fuses. Kind of hard to explain in text but one relay for low beam and one relay for high beam. The 85 and 86 pins go between hi beam and common or lo beam and common. The 30 has +12V power and 87 goes to the bulb. The common pin of the bulb goes to ground. 

 

Tell you the truth you might look into this...

These are MUCH brighter and light up more area...

 

 

 

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