Re-priming problem after RP-100 install (sorry it's a novel)

[dripley]

Ahhh that makes sense why my codes didn't show up right. I purchased a scan tool this afternoon!

No worries, you have been a great help and it's much appreciated!!!

Scan tool pulled the following codes, click the definitions to go to Marpar1973Man page for details:

P0602 - ECM Fueling Calibration Error - Internal fault condition detected

From cumminsforum.com (link here) "P0602 is generally an erroneous fault code, disregard the P0602 fault. Perform fuel system flow tests, reference TSB 14-03-06 revision A to diagnose the original engine performance problem" and some random dude said, "0602 essentially means unrecognized software, it comes with lotsa programmers". I have an unknown chip/program/thingamajig, maybe that's the cause of this one? But I had my truck scanned by Advance Auto a few weeks back just to see if anything was lurking in the shadows. There was something about the fuel level sender not changing over miles (P0460), but it went away and never came back. Maybe their scanner didn't do a great job and 0602 was there the whole time? (I hope)

P1689 - No Communication between ECM & Injection Pump Module - Data link circuit failure between ECM and fuel injection pump. Low power, engine derated, or engine stops.

Removing fuel relay can cause this code (link here). So for some reason or another the ECM is taking a nap and not telling VP what the heck to do. I removed my fuel relay (checking it, it tested good) however it wasn't when engine was cranked, key was in the "on" position. Don't know if that will send code or if it has to be cranking at the time (?)

P1698 - No CCD Messages Received From PCM - Bus communication failure to PCM. A Companion DTC was set in both the ECM and PCM. PCM is monitored for receiving BUS messages with ignition on and engine off and with engine running. DTC

may set if there is no communication with the PCM.

I'm gathering from this the PCM and ECM are not communicating properly??

i got the 1689 on mine when the vp was uplugged

i thought i had the 1698 when my ecm went bad.

we definately need and electronics guru for help here.

[EcoRI]

the problem you are having is identical to what i experianced except mine turned out to be electrical.

Gut feeling I have an electrical problem as well...

if you did have that connection apart, buy some electronics cleaner, take it apart again, clean both the socket and connecter, reconnect and try again. when you connected your new fp to ground is it possible you disturbed another ground wire, there are alot of them on these trucks. dont just buy another vp. this could be very simple.

I'll clean the VP connection as suggested, I bought some electrical connection cleaner before I started my original project (Operation: Gut the truck and kill rust all over the floor panels). You aren't kidding, there are grounds EVERYWHERE!

Definitely not buying a new VP until I pin point what's up. Tomorrow I'll do the test for the VP as outlined by Blue Chip Diesel (unless there are reasons I shouldn't?).

Mike has a wiring diagram for the vp plug here. i am not good at electronics either so maybe someone can help with how to chase that part of it down.

You and me both. I have the diagrams he's posted and the Service Manual from the download page. I think it would be easier if the truck wires *looked* like the diagrams, all straight and neat and whatnot.

i think you got something loose or corroded and in need of cleaning.

Yup. I'm not liking electricity at the moment (as I type on my MacBook from the garage illuminated by fluorescent lights... hehe)

------

Battery questions:

My batteries were getting low and cranking was waning, I hooked up the charger to the batteries (duh).

Again forgive my ignorance with the electrical matters, but is it correct for the driver's side battery to show almost full charge, the passenger's side battery to show empty, and the dash lights not come on when the key is turned "on"? After passenger battery was charged a little the truck behaved normal with key in "on" position. What in the heck? That doesn't make sense to me.

Second, the charger doesn't charge them all the way to full. Instruction manual said it should take 1.5 hrs to complete the charge and green light would illuminate. Hasn't happened for either battery over many hours of charging.

The batteries not being charged is why I haven't dived in to the connector testings as of yet.

I'll try to make sense of the electrical diagrams this evening and poke the engine in the morning.

I need to take my happy to WV by Sunday because classes start Monday bright and early! Stressed a bit? Nahhhh.......

--- Update to the previous post...

i thought i had the 1698 when my ecm went bad.

ahh Scheisse

we definately need and electronics guru for help here.

yeah buddy!

[Mopar1973Man]

Ok as for the P1698 code... Check the connectors there above the valve cover it contains the CCD network from the ECM to PCM if the connector is corroded or loose it will cause this problem. You might use a ohm meter on the 2 twisted wires. (CCD network)

1996 Dodge (CCD wiring) not the same color but appear just like this with the twist.

P1689 is either a bad fuel pump relay in the PDC or ECM/VP44 is failing.

P0602 if some left a programmer flash it will trp this code (smarty, superchips, etc). If there is no programmer code then this might be pointing towards a failed ECM.

I got off the phone last night with another gent that is also seeing a lot of ECM failing I guess one shop if blaming the extreme summer heat on the ECM fails but...

[EcoRI]

~ thank you, your knowledge of these engines is crazy smart!

P0602 if some left a programmer flash it will trp this code (smarty, superchips, etc). If there is no programmer code then this might be pointing towards a failed ECM.

Is it of any importance (i.e., would it help to determine the cause of P0602 as ECM or programmer) to know what program/chip/flash was used? I can find the previous owner on facebook and ask. Prefer not to unless it's valuable info for the situation.

[EcoRI]

Relay is good.Connections look good, both clean and still had dielectric grease.

[dripley]

i regards to your batteries in post #22. it sounds like at least one of them is shot. it is probably time to replace them. you need to replace both and not one. your are only as good as your worst battery. i might not replace them until i had my truck running. hey guys would weak batteries be causing some of the problems?

[EcoRI]

it sounds like at least one of them is shot... i might not replace them until i had my truck running. hey guys would weak batteries be causing some of the problems?

Thxy! I wondered if one is on its way out but didn't think to link the two things together, I'll pick 2 up this evening.

I found a post @ CumminsForum.com <link>"Have you checked your batteries? ... with the battery being low the ecm suffers powerloss and you have truck issues." - I don't know this feller whatsoever, taking it with a grain of salt.

CCD BUSS from PCM to connector over valve cover is good.

(+) 0.5

(-) 0.4

Checking grounds now, working from engine wiring diagrams.

I appreciate any suggestions from readers as to what compenents, wires, connections to check/test!

Like to eliminate possibilities before dumping $$ into buying new parts if not 100% sure that's the problem.

It's quality bonding time with my truck. Can't beat that..

[pic is the freeze frame of when the P0602 was sent, dunno if that's helpful or not]

[gassernomore]

The 602 code is nothing to worry about. This can happen with any type of chip.

[EcoRI]

Thxy, glad to know!Cleaned grounds, cleared codes, checked connections and everything else, and put new batteries in. Cranking the engine was a thing of beauty! Started up with 3 injectors cracked and fuel came out of all of them in equal pressurized spurts. VP is alive :hyper:Ran rough as all heck, turned engine off to tighten the injectors up because the pressurized fuel hurt when it hit my forearm. Continuing to run it and hope it smooths out. To those with a RP-100, where do you have the pressure adjuster set? I don't know if my fp gauge is working properly now after new batteries. When I had it running the gauge went to 26psi, before that the cranking psi was at 6 (I believe this to be normal?) and spiked to 26 after it started. The pump adjuster is about a 1/4 turn shy of the most you can turn it towards "+". I'm going to lower it and see what my gauge does.

[dripley]

that fuel is coming out at extremely high pressure and can hurt you. it is under enough pressure to inject it thru your skin. i always crank mine and when it hits i shut it off and tighten the injector lines and restart it . it will run rough until all of the air is out of the lines. it should not take very long to clear up. you ought to run your idle pressure around 17# to 20# and should see maybe 2# to 4# drop at wot. as mike says "keep it in the green". Happy to hear you got her running again.

[Mopar1973Man]

Yea... Be careful with high pressure fluid it can become very deadly...

You got it done right you got it fired up...

As for fuel pressure... Keep it in the green!

[EcoRI]

Happy to see fuel and tired from not going to bed last night, I forgot about the high pressure... Before that I whacked the side of my face on the crossmember for one bump and half of a black eye, common sense was not present :duh:Air is worked out and that green machine sounds better than ever :woot:Fuel pressure gauge needs to be replaced for sure. The needle dropped past 30psi and pointed straight down, moved clockwise and counter-clockwise, it's toast. Then I'll be all about staying green!It was a relatively inexpensive fix, learned more about truck's wiring, finally have a scan tool and auto electrical diagnostic multimeter/tool, and feel more confident about working with electrical and fuel system components.Thanks for the support, I truly appreciate you guys!

[gassernomore]

Happy to hear you got her up and running!

[banzaitoyota]

Good Job

[Mopar1973Man]

That what we are here for to help out... Great to see you got it running...

[Perrysburg Dodgeboy]

Man glad to here you got her running , I think I would have been drinking a 12 pack after that !

I hate to say this but why didn't you cut the lines to shorten them up? My Airdog-100 came with 3 barbed splice connectors for just that reason and you are correct the lines are made up for the quad cab LWB trucks. As for where to pick up your power, I don't know if the 2nd gen trucks have this or not but here is where I picked up the 12 volt power for the pump.

The main battery line (drivers side) going into the fuss box (or power distribution box).

If it were me I would go back under and shorten those lines up. Here is a link to the post on my install of my pump and a guard I had made up to protect the filters from road derbies. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4261-Airdog-100/page2

[Mopar1973Man]

I did the same thing... That way there is no corroded wires and a bunch of wires hanging off the battery cables... Good one Perrysburg Dodgeboy