Yesterday I checked my air filter and found that a mouse had started chewing it. No gaping hole, but getting there. I realized that the factory air box is nothing more than a nice "mouse motel" and decided that it was time for a BHAF as they are covered with steel mesh and not so easy to eat through.I did a search and didn't find too much regarding how to mount this thing so I thought of making a steel bracket from 1.5" x 10" steel strap 1/16" thick, [see last photo]. I drilled a 5/16" hole in the end of the air filter and put a bolt with a large flat washer through from the inside and bolted the bracket to it using thread locker and two nuts so the bolt couldn't come loose (and go through the turbo). The bolt fits the hole very tight so I don't have to worry if it did happen to come loose. As you can see I used some RTV silicone to cover the nuts and prevent corrosion. I then drilled a 11/16" hole for the air filter monitor and installed it. I attached it to the fender with a exhisting 13mm fender bolt. I made that side of the bracket with slot instead of a hole, so that when I want to remove the air filter all I have to do is loosen the 13mm bolt and the pipe clamp on the other end, and lift it out.The filter sits about 3/4" below the hood, and has several inches of clearance under and around it. I did think of making a heat sheild, however, after talking to Mopar1973man decided not to. Mike says that they aren't necessary so I thought I would try it this way without one.The filter is a NAPA #6637 and was about $62 total.Any input pro or con is welcome. Always trying to build a better mouse trap (pardon the pun).Bob

nice install RJ. i do like the braket idea.

That filter is a lot smaller than mine.

now that you mention it does look samller in diameter but about the same length.

That's the story of my life, No, seriouslyWhat brand is yours?

Napa 2790

I wish I had known that part # yesterday. I didn't know there was a "big unn". Good thing you noticed as someone else can avoid making this mistake. It probably didn't cost a whole lot more. I see you have over a million miles on yours. Have you replaced your seat yet? That is some serious saddle time.

Use that one until it gets dirty then get the other. I bet there isn't much of a difference.

That is what I'll do. Do you have a cover on yours? I had thought of that afterward. I wash my engine often and wondered how the water would effect the filter if I didn't cover it. I am just sitting here thinking that in heavy rain the filter could get a bit damp as well. One problem leads to another...Damn mice.

I do not have a cover. I wash the motor all the time. Water will not hurt anything.

mine is a bhaf from vulcan performance. just measured it at 10 1/2" long and 10 1/2" in diameter. i do have an outer cover but not sure i really needed it. i think it cost about $30 as i remember. the filter was $80 or $90. if i get 100k+ out of it it want be a bad deal. but i do like the price you paid.

Very interesting way of mounting the 6637 BHAF... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=41:bhaf-big-honkin-air-filter&catid=24&Itemid=107

Is it really necessary to strap down the BHAF? I will be receiving mine tomorrow and was wondering. As big as they are, it looks like they can't move around very much. I ordered my Donaldson off Ebay shipped to my front door for $52. and some change. I made an offer and they took it. The shipping was $17.99.Mohok

Install looks good!Depending on your mods that 6637 may not flow quite enough as its only rated for 425 CFM where the 2790 is rated for 680 CFM.

mine is not strapped to anything and seems to be doing fine. i would like to do something alittle differant down the road however. just not sure what.

I am running completely stock. I wish I had known about the size difference before ordering, I got the part number from a post somewhere. I little bit of diameter makes a big difference in capacity, not only in air in but the amount of dirt it can hold which means it lasts longer. Next time.The only reason I elected to make a bracket was just to get it up off the studs sticking up below, and that it would be stable and not rub on anything.The heat sheild wouldn't have been hard to make, but probably not worth the effort from what Mike says. The heat would actually work for me in the winter months. It would probably be worth making a duct to pull air over the turbo into the engine in the cold months. It would give warm air to the engine and cool the turbo, reverse it in the warm months. I need to think about this one more.I did think about taking the stock air box and cut the bottom off of it to use as a base for the BHAF. It would fit right back over the bolts.

Winter front is typically enough to keep it good... I'm going into the cold days now... Morning started out at 26*F and topped out about 62*F... Here comes winter...

Forget the winter front. Tow something heavy!

that will make a differance. finnaly saw north of 210* on my gauge for the first time in along time hauling my rv over the blue ridge. just cant haul the rv to work every morning.

Is your fan clutch broken? North of 210 isn't right.

Winter fronts work wonders! I can idle at 1100 rpms in 25° weather and the coolant never gets cold enough for the EB to kick on.. And when moving at -10° its worth every penny!