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65,0000 Miles..... a Few Questions.....


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Can anyone say how long the labor usually is to change the upper/ lower ball joints? How long before the oem steering damper needs replacing? KYB steering dampers? Better than oem?Sometimes I think this trucks like a boat :spend:..........Still need Raptor pump and steering column bearing. :)T.I.A.

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I had my ball joints changed at about 160,000 miles. The shop that did the work cusses at how much trouble they had because they said there was a lot of rust on the parts (original OEM). They put 5 hours in on the replacement and alignment.I now have 225,000 on the truck and I just recently replaced the steering damper. I replaced the stock unit with a larger diameter piston hoping to get some improved control. The old one I took out (original OEM)was still quite stiff to pull in and out by hand which surprised me. I expected it to be worn out and just move in/out under it's own weight.While I have a bigger damper in place now I can't say the difference is like night and day but there is some difference and I at least know what the condition is.

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took mine to a shop and they wanted $915 to do the ball joints tie rod ends tie rod most every thing and i remember. i just rebuilt the whole thing myself including the dampner. and there was a lot of cussing going on. i had to pound out the lower ball joints. it seems every one has trouble with that. i never took it any wher else to get a price. did this at 220k, should have been done sooner. steering is much better now,but still wants to wander some.

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Ask the shop what kind of joints they will use. Research good ones. For what it is worth i use moog. Ask if you can buy them, the reason i say this is sometimes shops mark up the stuff. The total bummer is most shops get money off the parts because they have an account with the store and still mark them up.My front end went south at 175k or so.

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Seems like I wouldn't need to change them then, so early at 65k miles. It's just a little up and down movement with the wheel on the drivers side only. Wonder about letting it go for awhile w/o it costing more down the road in bearings or something.

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Seems like I wouldn't need to change them then, so early at 65k miles. It's just a little up and down movement with the wheel on the drivers side only. Wonder about letting it go for awhile w/o it costing more down the road in bearings or something.

What do you mean by just a little? Do you have to crank on it will all your might to get it to move ?
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i went over to the rock auto site and the raybestos upper ball joint says that some up and down movement is normal but only if it is un installed or installed and the lower ball joint is disconnected. but it needs to be seated properly before install. so i am sticking with no movement is best when everything is together. i would think some tolarance in movement might be ok. mine do not move at all since replacing, i just did my wifes dakota with the same results.

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My friend owns an 06 2500 CTD. He owns a front end shop and state inspection station and knows how to install them. He said his Moog replacements were border line on passing inspection the day he installed them. He called Moog and they said it is normal to have some movement. Didn't sound right to him or me. That said, you fellows that get 100k plus out of your joints are doing well. The front end guy tells me that it isn't uncommon to replace them on the diesel trucks of all brands every 40k or so. At about $900 a job, business is okay for him.

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When I bought my truck a couple of months ago I asked how much it would cost for (4) ball joints, and alignment of course. He quoted $900. Thank God it didn't need them.Now you know what to do when you retire from building chicken houses! You will need to build a sound proof garage as the neighbors probably wouldn't like all the cussing. My friend said they make him cuss too.

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Good advice about not building and doing ball joints. If a guy invested in good equipment you could do alright and stop cussing at the same time.Anyhow, movements only a fraction. It does give a clunk when turning. Could be loose shocks. Need to start working under there today see what's up.Thanks all for the advicebtw, I don't appreciate you guys telling me I got chicken Balls....:lmao::lmao:did I read that right!

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I traded my 98.5 at 110k and it still steered like new. It was never off road and seldom off pavement.

--- Update to the previous post...

I traded my 98.5 at 110k and it still steered like new.  It was never off road and seldom off pavement.

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Good advice about not building and doing ball joints. If a guy invested in good equipment you could do alright and stop cussing at the same time. Anyhow, movements only a fraction. It does give a clunk when turning. Could be loose shocks. Need to start working under there today see what's up. Thanks all for the advice btw, I don't appreciate you guys telling me I got chicken Balls....:lmao::lmao: did I read that right!

i bought what i thought was a good press with lots of parts to work on other cars also. it just did not come with a receiver cup that would work on the lower ball joint. i went back to advance auto where i bought it to see if they could help find one. they could not. so the guy called a friend of his who does that kind of work and i got ot talk to him for a little while and the best advice he could give me was to get a bfh and beat them out. even he had to beat some out on occasion. that job fell to my son for one side and my brother for the other. the man holding the drift is the man who has the crappy job. the chickeman has always had chicken balls. check the background of the avatar. thats what i do for a living.
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Thanks Driply for further info. I'm glad to hear your not in the building biz. Although it can be really very good at times, there has now been just one too many slow downs to counter the good times. I think things are getting a little better each year.I have decided to wait on the ball joints for awhile. Today I found everything else is tight like it should be except the steering shaft will move up and down when trying to shake it. It is loose just below the 'U' joint near the column where it connects onto the main shaft. Not much play in the wheel but has a slight clunk near the back of the steering box while turning back and forth.Sometimes a pure baffling truck to own but with sites like this we'll all do much better.

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I did my ball joints myself and my stock ones lasted till 187K miles... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4147-Ball-Joints-Nightmare!

Yep about the same for me mile wise. I don't need my truck everyday so it took me about 2 1/2 days working a few hours a day. My Bro-in-law had to help me lift & hold the spindles, they are heavy. I had to run & get some oversize sockets, & you need a puller that helped. I also went with Moog on all 4. Gotta have somthng w a grease fitting. Keep 'em greased once they're installed too. Yep, lots of cussing.:evilgrin: I was able to work on it & leave my tools for the next tug fest. It's nice to not be pressured in not having to get it done say like work on Monday morning & doing it on the weekend with all the stuff going on that we have to neglect to get 'er dun! It is an involved process! I'd do it again.:thumb1:I don't really have a choice actually.:) W 65K, your probably OK. Dave
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Dripley, are we going to see you change your user name to Chickenman. Chick-fil-a should sponsor this site with all this advertisement youve been giving them.

i think i will let my family keep calling me chicken man for now. il just be drip here for while.

it would be my luck CFA would want me to pay them for use of theie logo.

--- Update to the previous post...

Thanks Driply for further info. I'm glad to hear your not in the building biz. Although it can be really very good at times, there has now been just one too many slow downs to counter the good times. I think things are getting a little better each year.

I have decided to wait on the ball joints for awhile. Today I found everything else is tight like it should be except the steering shaft will move up and down when trying to shake it. It is loose just below the 'U' joint near the column where it connects onto the main shaft. Not much play in the wheel but has a slight clunk near the back of the steering box while turning back and forth.

Sometimes a pure baffling truck to own but with sites like this we'll all do much better.

i should have explained that better. building them is what i do. been building restaraunts for 30+ years now. the past 13 mainly CFA's. we are definately not in the good times right now, but fortunately CFA has not slowed their construction pace. they are actually ramping up some. i have been fortunate over the years in construction and have weathered several recessions by working for the right people at the right time. i am fortunate to be where i am now. the times are by far worse than anything i have ever seen. just keeping my finger crossed that people dont start hating chicken.
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