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oil out the dipstick??

mopar440cu
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CUMMINSDIESELPWR

CUMMINSDIESELPWR

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Ok, but what about a valva guide?

the valve guide is above the valve seat on the dome of the head. if any leakage were to pass through the valve seat it would either go into the intake plenum or the exhaust depending on which valve. however a valveguide could be letting the valve not seat properly. either way the leak is somewhere in the cumbustion chamber, not outside it. if i were you id just get it over with and pull the head. you will find your problem :)
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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Your going to end up pulling the head for sure... Mosty likely got a melted piston... 100 PSI is just way too low... Not to mention the other 5 being 300 PSI is rather low too. So You going to need to open it up and see what damages you got... No other need for any other test you just need to pop that head off.

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ISX

ISX

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My question is how did it happen when he says he didn't get it hot? Is it possible that #1 injector was leaking really bad and caused that cylinder to run a lot hotter? No doubt he has an issue with compression leaking into the crankcase, I just want to hear the causes of something like that when you just drive around normally.

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CUMMINSDIESELPWR

CUMMINSDIESELPWR

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My question is how did it happen when he says he didn't get it hot? Is it possible that #1 injector was leaking really bad and caused that cylinder to run a lot hotter? No doubt he has an issue with compression leaking into the crankcase, I just want to hear the causes of something like that when you just drive around normally.

i can hear a couple of my injectors hitting a little harder than the rest due to wear. especially when cold (stock original injectors 169,000 miles)
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mopar440cu

mopar440cu

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No have not pulled the head yet. Exhuasting all options first. I was going to do a leak down test, as suggested, but ran into a problem. I pulled all injectors placed the adapter in the #1 injector hole began turning the motor over with a barring tool while the wife was watching for TDC at the puke box location. She informed me the injection pump was not turning. Sooo I began taking the front apart to find that problem and found out she was wrong. She didnt understand the injection pump turned slow while I was turning the barring tool slowly. What a mess up. Needless to say I stopped and checked it made her turn the barring tool and caught it before I took the cover off. Now back to where I was. Im going to leak down test it first before I take the head off.I am still amazed that anything went wrong seeing it never got hot!!:banghead:

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Wild and Free

Wild and Free

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Getting hot is a very small factor in it. Could be a broken ring could be worn rings from bad or dirty air filter in the past "dusting", could have been a dirty injector spaying inconsistantly causing a hot spot on the piston which could melt a small hole in piston. Pistons can and do fail for other reasons. Could be washed out cylider walls from faulty injectors or another symptom of "dusting" could be a scored cylinder wall caused by one or several of above descriptions or from using poor quality oil, excessive uneccesary idle time will cause this as well. A broken or dropped valve seat or a previous injector tip failure could have damaged the piston and over time it created a hole or scoring. Until you get the head off you will not know. You are wasting your time with doing all the extra tests, you already know it is internal damage. With The time you have spent chasing you could have had it almost fixed already.:doh: If the compression test failed why would you think a leak down test would give any different results?:shrug:

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Wild & Free is right... Once you failed the compression test you know there is internal damage now... Any other test you perform is going to fail too... So it time to knuckle down and get the tool box out and fix the problem the more you drive it around the more damage the engine is taking. So of course the long you wait the more expensive it is to fix... :rolleyes:

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mopar440cu

mopar440cu

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Well decided to just change the motor, seeing how I found with low miles cheap. Then I can take my time and rebuild the old one. Does anybody know any tricks on getting the motor out? I know the front end has to come off, but does the oil pan or the rocker bridges have to come off? Or is there another way?

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stevens cummins

stevens cummins

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my dad pulled one in a 99 after a buddy of ours had the 53 crack in just a few hhours with out pullin the oil pan nor the valve cover he pulled the radiator air cooler muved the ac condencer out of the way and took the motor mount bolts out and wiggled it out and even left the tranny settin in there :thumbup2:was a little of a pain linning the tranny back up during install tho:banghead:

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