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Rogan

When it rains... it pours...

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I've been fighting quite a number of gremlins in this '97 3500 since the *** I got it..Today, it left me walking.. Starter, or something..It goes "click" when you hit the key. I didn't think it was a battery issue (even though they are in dire need of replacement), but I tried to jump-start it anyway.. no luck. Took a hammer and tapped on the starter case (old school method) to no avail..Solenoid definitely clicks ONCE, but no sign of starter spin at all.No hints of this thing planning to take a dump, leading up to this.. just BAM.. or "click."So now, it's sitting in my work parking lot.I'm going tomorrow morning to fiddle with it (as it's dark now) and will check for voltage at the main lug, etc., before removing the starter. It's an auto, so there's no chance of "bump-starting" it.. Or is there? I've got a TCC lockup switch, so I could theoretically get it rolling and throw the switch to it.. But, that's just wild thinking, I'm sure..Suggestions? Think it may be contacts?

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See if the shutoff solenoid goes up when you turn the key on and "start" it. That solenoid energizes on the same circuit when the key is in the start position. That is ONLY to energize it (bigger wire), it uses a smaller wire to hold the solenoid when the key is in the on position. So if that isn't working, I would look farther back at fuses/relay.. I can't see the starter just dieing instantly either.

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I have seen bad solinoids a number of times... not on Cummins but my employment was mainly on Gas Marine engines. Have someone else turn the key to confirm your trigger voltage. Then test for output voltage. Might want to check the neutral start switch... stick? Has clutch switch under the clutch pedal. Probably not any of them but easier to check than pull a starter. I used to test for bad key switch with a mechanic's starter button. I haven't looked at the access but I used to test solinoids with a big arse screw driver with a plast handle... you know the one with the arc burns on the blade!

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turn your headlites on, then hit the key. what do the lights do then? do they die out rightaway, then slowly come back after releasing the key? CHECK your grounds! They'll fool ya with batt voltage until loaded. I hate the negative cables dodge uses.... what a hair ball coming out of that clamp!!If they stay bright, check your small wire on the starter whilst cranking.. if good, check your 12v large wire at starter too. (while attempting to crank) If both show good batt volts, then It's the starter/solenoid.As far as locking up the convertor, theoretically it should work. the 2 wire lock up has 12 volts ALL the time, and the opposing wire goes back to ground. (switching part) Unlocked is open circuit, locked is grounded...completing the circuit. ummm... be careful so when it does start, you can quickly 'unplug' the locked part!!!!!! You don't want to crash into the rear of the pulling vehicle. Just kick it into Neutral... I wonder if 1st gear is high enough to get a diesel to turn over?? you might just slide the tires. I guess it would take about 50 feet or more to get enough hydraulic pressure to get the 1st gear clutch to engage.(trans pump needs to be turning first)This is my experience with RH trans.... I can't see where it'd be different with the RE's...edit:Reread your op, I see you have the tcc switch! can't hurt to try.. Just don't ruin Thanksgiving dinner by smashing into a light pole..:whistle:

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I've been fighting quite a number of gremlins in this '97 3500 since the *** I got it.. Today, it left me walking.. Starter, or something.. It goes "click" when you hit the key. I didn't think it was a battery issue (even though they are in dire need of replacement), but I tried to jump-start it anyway.. no luck. Took a hammer and tapped on the starter case (old school method) to no avail.. Solenoid definitely clicks ONCE, but no sign of starter spin at all. No hints of this thing planning to take a dump, leading up to this.. just BAM.. or "click." So now, it's sitting in my work parking lot. I'm going tomorrow morning to fiddle with it (as it's dark now) and will check for voltage at the main lug, etc., before removing the starter. It's an auto, so there's no chance of "bump-starting" it.. Or is there? I've got a TCC lockup switch, so I could theoretically get it rolling and throw the switch to it.. But, that's just wild thinking, I'm sure.. Suggestions? Think it may be contacts?

If you can here the solinoid click it's starter all the way. No need to look further. Mine did that twice with in two months

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Rancherman, the tc wont lock up until 3rd gear, 1st and 2nd do not lock up (unless Rogan has modified the valve body). Having said that, I dont think it will engage into 3rd unless the truck is already running? Ive never tried it before so Im not discrediting you, just throwing that out there to try n save Rogan an unneccessary headache :doh:I agree with above statement, put truck in park, turn key on and cross contacts with selonoid. Itll get ya goin and back home where you can at least work on it.Oh the joys of owning 15 year old vehicles! :hyper:

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I didn't know about the RE trans.... I have that RH in my gasser 2500 that I use a cobbled up 'switch'.to lock it up. I ran a parallel wire-to-ground through a toggle in cab.. I can hit that switch, and it'll be locked up in any gear, even in 1st. I did it not for economy.... but to keep more oil going thru the cooler! Those killer loads of hay I haul, would very rarely get out of 2nd gear, maybe hit 40 mph max... and until the tcc locks up... there is NO oil going to the cooler! kinda bass ackwards isn't it? I knew no lock up till 3rd... But I figured it was either ecm or internally (trans) controlled... but still would require the tcc lockup to be 'grounded' to actuate :shrug:Apparently, one of my previous rebuilds (one of many! :ashamed:) had the valve body modded to make this possible!

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Like I said Im not saying it cant be done Im just not sure... my tc lock up is home made just as yours is. To keep it locked in 3rd I have to hit the od switch otherwise it will drop right to od the second the trans shifts out of 1st gear. Id love to be able to lock up 1st and 2nd Ive heard it can be done but dont know how. Keeping the trans locked does make a huge difference, i can be pulling a heavy load in 3rd at 40 to 50 mph with the tc locked and my temp gauge wont budge above 130 to 140. If I unlock it, I can literally watch the temp climb 30 to 40 degrees in seconds, maybe more depending on the load.

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:doh:I don't know what I was thinking! Even if the convertor is locked up.. (valve is open to allow hydraulic pressure to plates in tc) the pump has to be turning FIRST to make pressure to engage.It's a 'what came first'... chicken or the egg.. convertor has to turn the pump... pump is needed to engage the lockup.. :doh:LOL< I was distracted here by the great smells starting to come out of the kitchen now!Happy Thanksgiving!

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I've been fighting quite a number of gremlins in this '97 3500 since the *** I got it..

Today, it left me walking.. Starter, or something..

It goes "click" when you hit the key. I didn't think it was a battery issue (even though they are in dire need of replacement), but I tried to jump-start it anyway.. no luck. Took a hammer and tapped on the starter case (old school method) to no avail..

Solenoid definitely clicks ONCE, but no sign of starter spin at all.

No hints of this thing planning to take a dump, leading up to this.. just BAM.. or "click."

So now, it's sitting in my work parking lot.

I'm going tomorrow morning to fiddle with it (as it's dark now) and will check for voltage at the main lug, etc., before removing the starter. It's an auto, so there's no chance of "bump-starting" it.. Or is there? I've got a TCC lockup switch, so I could theoretically get it rolling and throw the switch to it.. But, that's just wild thinking, I'm sure..

Suggestions? Think it may be contacts?

SpellCheck maybe????? Or was that on purpose???!!!!!:ashamed::smart:

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All in how you look at it I guess. :-)Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

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