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In Bed Fuel Access Hatch...


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  • Staff

Today I decided in spite of the existing truck bed cross member above the fuel module, I cut the opening for a access hatch or lid, whatever you call it.I knew I was taking a risk in weakening the bed but, If I just cut the surface out first I knew I would then be committed:cookoo: Committed to getting it done and to get it right.I only cut the surface and removed that first. Then I was able to see what to do, especially with new light on the situation.I found the cross member just behind the module on the right side would allow 1 1/2'' square tubing over the top and support the cut bed frame just perfectly.After Easter celebration I'll figure out the rest the support needed and report back.As for now I know that 1/4'' thick diamond plate hatch door will fit perfectly flush and Getting that on Monday.

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  • Staff

I cut 13 1/2'' front to back and about 16'' wide. I was under the bed counting the number of corrugated ribs. I accidently went one rib too many on side to side dimension. Thought I was being very careful too:doh: but, It does make it easier to change fuel lines if ever I need toI'll give size tomorrow , the main thing is to leave the lowest flat part of the ribs on ea. side for the cover plate to rest on.I need to look at what I do structurally cause I carry a 3400 lb slide in camper.

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  • Staff

maybe i missed it, but what's the point?

I needed a project. Sittin around here every weekend gets old. I was in dire need of a challange after the winter mos. Besides I suspect a problem sucking air either the fuel line or draw straw. Plus....... when (not if) my fuel gauge register goes out I'll have it. I've dropped the tank twice before and 3 times on my first gen. That gets old too btw.
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  • Owner

I personally couldn't do it because the amount of firewood hauled and thrown in the bed of the truck would create a serious issue. I would most likely start ripping the bed or bow it down more at the hole. Dropping the tank. I've done mine twice but that been some time ago it not like you got to drop it even every year. Some do the lift the bed method and some do the drop the tank method. But as long as the work is done correctly there should not be any reason to do it multple times.

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I personally couldn't do it because the amount of firewood hauled and thrown in the bed of the truck would create a serious issue. I would most likely start ripping the bed or bow it down more at the hole. Dropping the tank. I've done mine twice but that been some time ago it not like you got to drop it even every year. Some do the lift the bed method and some do the drop the tank method. But as long as the work is done correctly there should not be any reason to do it multple times.

The key word is "correctly". That is why I experienced 2 tank removals:doh:. The second time was much easier though.
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  • Staff

I must say also that That the existing bed frames are very thin gauge mild steel. Any reinforcement I do using this 1 1/2x 3 1/3 heavy wall steel tubing while more than suffice. To do this mod is a little off the wall... I know, but, I want to do it even though I don't disagree with everyone.

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I must say also that That the existing bed frames are very thin gauge mild steel. Any reinforcement I do using this 1 1/2x 3 1/3 heavy wall steel tubing while more than suffice. To do this mod is a little off the wall... I know, but, I want to do it even though I don't disagree with everyone.

While I don't think I am going to do this my self, I don't see anything wrong with it. That is the beauty of this site, people thinking out of the box and the benefits we all gain from it.
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  • Owner

I must say also that That the existing bed frames are very thin gauge mild steel. Any reinforcement I do using this 1 1/2x 3 1/3 heavy wall steel tubing while more than suffice. To do this mod is a little off the wall... I know, but, I want to do it even though I don't disagree with everyone.

I'm still curious how it turns out and what you have to do to make it work. :wink:
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  • Staff

Well it has tried my patience just a wee bit. I've been taking my time planning ea. piece before jumping in. It has taken a bit of luck but, with the way things worked out, I like to think the boss above has been looking out for me too because this is one of those gambles you pray comes out O.K.It would help if I had more experience building flatbed trucks for a living that sort of thing.Anyhow, I'm almost done... got to make up a verticle support to carry the new bed frame crossover off the trucks frame. Since I do not want to drill nor weld the frame it's going to take a bit of creativity using more existing frame holesTomorrow I order the 1/4'' diamond plate cover. Might need to be 3/16ths because of the diamond treads going up too high above the bed ribbing. We shall see.

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  • Staff

I'll do pictures on Saturday as I have a demanding job going right now this week.I did take the afternoon off and just got the work done. Cut the diamond plate cover and got the frame support secured.It's done except a few minor details.Next is to figure out where my air leak and excessive fuel pressure drop is coming from.A side note: I do not recommend doing this unless you are adament about having a real challenge in front of you.One big BIG solution to making it easier would be an idea I haf during the 2 1/2 days I've spent on it.Would be to provide a telescoping frame that slides together and bolts in firm. This telescoping frame would slide out of the way of the fuel tank, sliding inside the cut away bed rib on either side and come together when you want the frame strong and back in place. Bolt it back together and your done. As long as it fits snug enough for support you could use galvanized heavy wall pipe with a threaded coupling to connect the bed rib frame back in place.I did it the hard way with all new steel framing and a ton of luck with existing factory holes luckily located in the frame and cross member where I needed them. Took a lot of thought and just out and out accidental luck.Say prayers you guys they workPics to come.....

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