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wally is sold out... what next?


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already blew through 4 gallons of wally's blue 2 stroke oil, and need to be getting more pretty darn quickI suspect any non synthetic 2 stroke oil would suffice...So besides WalMart, what would be the next place to look? Do they offer it in 5 gallon pails? 30 gallon drums?

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The wally world here near the rv park here in Terre Haute was sold out a couple weeks ago. Found some at home last weekend. But to my dismay they had no Rotella. Not sold out, but no space on the shelf for it, not even for quart bottles. Kinda weird. On top of that Waffle House no longer has a hamburger steak dinner on the menu. THE WORLD IS COMING TO AN END!!!!

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The Advanced Auto Parts here sells it by the gallon. Sounds like you need it by the drum though sir!

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Super tech is the only stuff I have ever used because all the other stuff is at least twice the price.

How much is the Super Tech per gallon?
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already blew through 4 gallons of wally's blue 2 stroke oil, and need to be getting more pretty darn quick I suspect any non synthetic 2 stroke oil would suffice... So besides WalMart, what would be the next place to look? Do they offer it in 5 gallon pails? 30 gallon drums?

Dang! RW.. 4gallons is good for 32 fill ups by my math LOL! I think I`m gonna look into buying some supertec stock to go with the two stroke!
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Dang! RW.. 4gallons is good for 32 fill ups by my math LOL! I think I`m gonna look into buying some supertec stock to go with the two stroke!

:spend: Thank goodness this tractor 'only' runs 150-200 hours a year! I'm about half done with field work... probably need another 8-10 gallons of 2 stroke oil (in a pinch I put brand new conoco 15-40 in it this morning) already 'burned' through it! This motor gulps 1 gallon of fuel in just a tad over 3 minutes. (cummins 903)
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I am not sure why you are doing this on an engine like that, personally on that old iron if added lube is wanted why not run used engine oil instead ? That old fuel system runs at a low pressure and has tolerances much like throwing a hotdog down a hallway versus the new systems.

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I am not sure why you are doing this on an engine like that, personally on that old iron if added lube is wanted why not run used engine oil instead ? That old fuel system runs at a low pressure and has tolerances much like throwing a hotdog down a hallway versus the new systems.

Gee wiz ! IF you would remember a post I did about a year ago.... about burning waste oil....:rolleyes: actually, I intend to do that. I have a pretty good idea on what filters to use to extract the bigger hunks, (and the small ones too) and with a little better method of storing the used oil (in the first place) I'd have better chance of getting a useable product. Sounds like the trick is to 'cut' it first with a little diesel fuel to get it through the filters easier. Plus time for settling/separating of water/antifreeze. All I need to do is get one assembled~! I just plunked down $$$ for rebuilt injectors, and I wanted to give em all the help they can get with the extra lube. wally world blue is just an interim BTW, I talked to 'Brad' (service tech) at Fargo Cummins... I got his name from a member on Agtalk.com forum. He has been pulling wrenches on these engines since 1976. Nice guy, and he SCHOOLED my butt with info not found in the service manual. You might know him? Tractor is parked today... 3 inches snow preceded with almost 1 inch rain. :woot: :woot:
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Nope memory isn't long enough to remember a thread from a year ago lol. I do not know anybody from the Fargo Cummins North Central store "I did have a week long service school class there in the mid 90's and 2 weeks of class in the St Paul Minn store", At work we use the Minot CNC store for service. I live about 230 miles west of Fargo and only go through that god forsaken flat land when I absolutely have to, Minot is just a tad over 100 miles north of me and I went to diesel school with the service manager there. Over the years I have been involved in two 903 conversions, one to an 855 and one to an N14 Cummins on 4wd ag tractors. One was a Versatile and one was an old Steiger. I will have to look up the filter head and filter # cat uses to filter the engine oil on the ORS "Oil renewal systems" equipt engines we have. They filter metered engine oil from the crankcase directly into the fuel tank. What kind of info did Brad school you on?

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Nope memory isn't long enough to remember a thread from a year ago lol. I do not know anybody from the Fargo Cummins North Central store "I did have a week long service school class there in the mid 90's and 2 weeks of class in the St Paul Minn store", At work we use the Minot CNC store for service. I live about 230 miles west of Fargo and only go through that god forsaken flat land when I absolutely have to, Minot is just a tad over 100 miles north of me and I went to diesel school with the service manager there. Over the years I have been involved in two 903 conversions, one to an 855 and one to an N14 Cummins on 4wd ag tractors. One was a Versatile and one was an old Steiger. I will have to look up the filter head and filter # cat uses to filter the engine oil on the ORS "Oil renewal systems" equipt engines we have. They filter metered engine oil from the crankcase directly into the fuel tank. What kind of info did Brad school you on?

well, I've only has this machine for a couple of years... and there is NO ONE still alive/or working that 'knows' this engine in my area! (if it don't have a plug in for computer diagnostics... it's obsolete!!) shush mike. I USED to set the injectors using the torque wrench method... I used 50 inch lbs. on the outer base circle of cam. I just didn't feel comfortable with the possible variations due to friction in the threads. So I got a tip extender for my dial indicator set.. and am doing the injector traved based on the inner base circle of cam. ............ my pointer on engine is LONG gone for setting valves/injectors.... Brad confirmed my 8/9 oclock VS markings. I was also worried that no mention was made to setting these injectors in a cold versus hot engine. He said it isn't an issue. hot engine oil isn't considered HOT. He also recommended running a little looser valve. .014 and .027 cold. They are a little rattley cold, but swell up nice. ( I'll probably stay with my .012 and .025 for now) The main thing I learned from him is HOW to 'run' this engine. Don't lug it too long, gotta give it a chance to recover. He then chewed my butt for putting the pyrometer pre turbo. (this engine is pretty shakey, and WILL snap off the probe). But still, no more than 1200* (I've seen 1025 so far) Keep it in the operating temp. 180-200 is good. Make dang sure it's up to temp before loading. Just as equal is a nice cool down. I asked him about all I've heard about running this thing wot all the time. "Only If you NEED it'. Personally, I like how it 'sounds' at 2400 rpm. 2700 is a little buzzy.. LOL I run 52-55 lbs oil pressure at 2400 rpm. He said I'm right in the middle for what's acceptable.. Had a quick theory session on the P/T injector.. (pressure/time) injector. pretty cool, and simple as a hammer. Basically, as engine slows from lugging, this gives more 'time' to fill injector with more fuel... effectively giving a power/torque rise. When it drops to even lower, the pump then kicks in more pressure. Besides the quick snap shot of 'tuning and running' this engine, He is the first guy I've talked to that didn't call this engine a 'Nine-oh-nothing' It was a nice change to the anti v8 naysayers! He said it's a good engine, BUT needs to be run a tad different than the inlines. I needed this info to confirm whether I made a bad investment in this tractor or not! Up in your part of the US, there were a lot of big Masseys, verseys, and steigers with this engine and most got/still getting the job done! They are 40 yrs old now.. Ive seen several write ups on the 855- n14 transplant. I'd probably do something like that if a catastropic engine failure happens. (more involved than what an inframe OH would fix)
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I am not sure why you are doing this on an engine like that, personally on that old iron if added lube is wanted why not run used engine oil instead ? That old fuel system runs at a low pressure and has tolerances much like throwing a hotdog down a hallway versus the new systems.

:lmao2::lmao:

I'd say you got lots of clearance.

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As to the 'why'.... All I can come up with is 'paranoia' !!I bought this tractor.. with 5100 hours on it. I put 200 hours on it before the original engine scuffed 1 piston.I did an inframe OH, and had the heads done at this time. replaced 1 scuffed injector.found how pricey/unavailable parts are for this engine.Put 200 hours on that rebuild before a rolled o ring scuffed another piston. Replaced THAT liner/piston... And invested in a dial-bore gauge. ( to measure remaining cylinders for distortion) lesson learned, I thought... Got the proper thermostats installed. (were 160's) :duh: 20 hours into THAT rebuild: scuffed piston.. different hole, different bank. Changed that liner and piston and new rod bearing. THIS time I went with all rebuilt injectors, set them with indicator, and am running extra lube for 2 reasons... 1. help out with the plunger life2. cold start lube.. It can't hurt the rings/pistons on cold start if there is a little more lube in there can it?Proper injector set up, newly rebuilt injectors, proper engine temp, proper engine warm-up/shut down, AND a little 'help' in the fuel tank = change of luck?:pray:I can now say with 20+ hours on this 'build', my rings have seated well, and possibly quicker with the oil in the fuel.Oh, the joys of buying used equipment!

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R.W. I mixed up a batch of 2% soybean oil with off road ULSD diesel a few weeks ago, and so far my old Ford, and my 07 Kioti seam to like it just fine..According to the charts Mike has posted 2% soy bean far surpasses anything you can add to your fuel including two stroke oil.I bought it at the local county farm supply for $3.59 a gallon mixing it 50/1... I`m pretty sure you can buy it by the drum, or the truck load.. I think I would take a serious look at it:2cents:

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Just be careful of your temperature while using vegetable based oils. As the temperature get colder the veggie based oils tend to settle to the bottom and thicken up.

Mike, has anyone actually determined what the gel point of soy bean oil is? Here in Oklahoma we are surrounded with soy bean fields, and not a bio pump in sight.. from what I gather from other posters they are everywhere up north.:think: I know they are trying to market bio as high as 20%, but as far as lubricity is concerned 2% is more than sufficient
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