Truck missing

[mountaindan]

I have a 4000 lb camper on the back of my 3500 ram, and in a hard pull at 2200 rpm it has a miss. I have just replaced the IP around 4000 miles. Truck has 15 lb of FP at WOT, there are no codes, My mods I have a vanaken module, boast fooler, boast elbow and a exhaust brake, could this be a bad injector or is the IP going again?

[mopartechnician]

Codes? I would pull the chip and boost fooler and see if it does it. I have seen chips do weird things.

[mountaindan]

No codes, will pull module and try tomorrow, thanks

[Ilikeoldfords]

How many miles are on the injectors? Could be dirty injectors?? I know Mopar1973man has cleaned his before.. Might make a difference.

[mountaindan]

pulled the module and boast fooler still same thing, the truck has 130000 miles about, valve cover never been off. thanks for all the input..

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just pulled the map sensor, ohmed it it reads 1.6k 40 deg out, don't know if that is good or bad.

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cleaned the IAT sensor, still missing in a hard pull with load. Whare to from here??

[dieselnut123]

Check your throttle positioning sensor. You can test this with a voltmeter and monitoring the signal voltage on the blue wire with a black tracer coming from the APPS electrical plug. Turn the ignition key to the “on” position and slowly press on the throttle and slowly release it. You should not ever see a jump in voltage. It should go up and down smoothly. If it repeatedly jumps up or down, then its likely the APPS. Further extend the signal wire in the cab with you an go for a drive, if the voltage jumps and truck misses simultaneously its definitely the APPS. This is unlikely without codes but possible.Try removing and cleaning your IAT sensor.Any other symptoms, possibly engine temp not registering ect???

[mountaindan]

Thanks will give the APPS a try I did clean the IAT sensor it was pretty dirty. I dont have the camper out now but will hook up the gooseneck and take the backhoe for a ride and see if it misses.

[Dieselfuture]

Thanks will give the APPS a try I did clean the IAT sensor it was pretty dirty. I dont have the camper out now but will hook up the gooseneck and take the backhoe for a ride and see if it misses.

Would love to find out what it is my truck done it for 3 years now, it maybe similar issue, please keep us posted.

[mountaindan]

Would love to find out what it is my truck done it for 3 years now, it maybe similar issue, please keep us posted.

Will do I have cleaned all the sensors, don't use it much in the winter, did get a 100 gal. of fuel for the tractors and could not make it miss, of course that is not much of a load. truck it self runs great with plenty of power..Just that annoying miss under heavy load (15000#+)?

[Dieselfuture]

Will do I have cleaned all the sensors, don't use it much in the winter, did get a 100 gal. of fuel for the tractors and could not make it miss, of course that is not much of a load. truck it self runs great with plenty of power..Just that annoying miss under heavy load (15000#+)?

That is what mine does, empty or with 1000 lb in the bed doesn't seem to affect it but pulling 10k is when I notice it. And only when it get close to 1700-1800 rpm and sometimes closer to 2000 . And not in all gears mostly 6th and sometimes 5th. And I tried getting in to it when it acts up to make a code to come up and nothing just misses worse. I also unplugged my qwadzilla and put map sensor back in, still dit it just not as bad and less power. It's almost like qwadzilla enhances the problem. That is why I think something is going on with vp, but don't want to change it till I know for a fact. I'm gonna change my cam sensor next and see what happens, my tach does bounce a little. But on your truck I'm not sure if you have to change cam and cranck hopefully we can figure this out, I already don't care that much for mileage just want to run good:mad:

[mountaindan]

I replaced the crank shaft sensor when I replaced the starter, it has the original cam sensor, I just replaced the IP and was told by the dealer that it was still bad sent it back and they said it tested good, charged 200.00, and now I dont know what to check. If it warms up I will pull and clean the injectors and have them poped and see if that helps.

[Dieselfuture]

I replaced the crank shaft sensor when I replaced the starter, it has the original cam sensor, I just replaced the IP and was told by the dealer that it was still bad sent it back and they said it tested good, charged 200.00, and now I dont know what to check. If it warms up I will pull and clean the injectors and have them poped and see if that helps.

Ok, I just changed my cam sensor and nothing changed so I got a spare one now:). My truck is still misfires at about 1800-2000 rpm. So today I went and unplugged my qwadzilla and plugged map sensor back to original plug not through qwadzilla wiring. Anyways drove it and forgot how much less power it has without it, most of the miss went away but it's still there, just not as noticeable. Really faint miss, I swear its still there, just adding more power makes it more noticeable. I'll try to pull a trailer with a load and will know for sure, that's when I can really tell the difference.

[mountaindan]

Just ordered a set of injectors, if the ice ever melts off my truck I will gt them installed and see if that makes any difference.

[Wild and Free]

Usually any miss like you are experiencing is always related to injectors, also at 130K you really need to check and adjust the valve lash, that will also cause a slight miss more pronounced at higher rpms if you have one a bit out of spec.

[mehbohdi]

Usually any miss like you are experiencing is always related to injectors, also at 130K you really need to check and adjust the valve lash, that will also cause a slight miss more pronounced at higher rpms if you have one a bit out of spec.

What he said, You probably don't need injectors, they just need to be cleaned. Just my 2cents

[eddielee]

adding one percent bio-diesel adds much lubricity and cleans really well... this is often recommended for diesels.x2 on injectors needing cleaned and possible valve adjustment. Add a quality injector cleaner or Bio-diesel and see what happens.(disclaimer, not sure how bio effects the fuel lines on these trucks as I am new to them, used to drive a VW TDI)

[MnTom]

used to drive a VW TDI)

Oh yea? Tell me about it. My son, daughter, and wife drive them.

[Dieselfuture]

Ok small update. Just got my gauges from genos, they had a deal or at least I got one, free shipping and left out fuel isolator so I saved $90. Got ISS Pro EV1 mechanical gauges and dash pod. Got it all put in looks great and works great, I didn't mount it by the windshield, made my own bracket and put it just above heater controls. Fuel 30 psi, boost 60 psi and 1500 egt. Drove the truck around with no trailer, my fuel pressure stayed right around 18-19 , boost seemed normal but I did hit about 32 psi max with qwadzilla unplugged. I thought its supposed to throw a code and cut out about 20 psi. My waste gate is rusted shut, cleaned it once took about 1k and was stuck again, so i left it alone. no need to get j hook. But anyway couldn't tell if the miss was still there didn't drive it too far, but fuel and psi didn't jump around it was all smooth. I also changed return bolt on vp that has a spring and ball it, just in case. And about using 2precent bio, I tried it once and got 2 leaky injector lines with in that tank. And then I found out that if I don't drive it often that it will ruin vp because of moisture. I don't know if this helps anybody but here it is:).

[MnTom]

And then I found out that if I don't drive it often that it will ruin vp because of moisture.

Do you mean with home made BIO? With commercial BIO they say it will pick up water from the tank and deposit it in your fuel filter.

[Dieselfuture]

Do you mean with home made BIO? With commercial BIO they say it will pick up water from the tank and deposit it in your fuel filter.

I thought it was any bio, if you don't drive the truck on daly basis it will start to attack fuel system. Maybe you're right with 2precent comercial all a guy has to do is drain water separator once in a while:shrug:. And most of us have air dog or fass that makes it super easy. I just know for a fact that my truck had no leaks until I put 2precent commercial bio from cum and go and within a week I had fuel dripping on the ground running of bell housing, thought it was rear main seal leak and then discovered that injector lines 1 and 6 were leaking at the head. Maybe coincidence but kind of weird. So that was firs and last tank of bio I put in. Plus my truck sits for a few weeks sometimes as I have a car to drive to work. Save money on fuel so I can buy more crap for the truck:spend: