Complete Fuild Change....

[rseabur]

I am going to be doing a complete fluid change on my 01. I am looking for a recommendations on what fluid you guys are running or what works best in these 24 valves. I will be doing coolant, engine oil, atf fluid, and rear diff. Should I run any additives? Manual says to run something in the rear diff. Truck has a little over 80,000 miles on it and is an auto trans. It is a tow rig 75% of the time but not a daily driver. Looking for good quality stuff that is affordable and readily available. Is there anything else I need to do while I am doing all this??

[dorkweed]

For the rear differential, you'll need a "friction-modifier" for the clutches in "limited slip" rear you've got.

 

Follow the manual……………….can't really go wrong doing that.

[dripley]

I second the above.

[mopartechnician]

Governor pressure sensor and solenoid. Adjust bands. I also add some lucas trans additive also

[diesel4life]

Coolant specs are plain ol ethylene glycol (the green stuff). Chryslers ATF+4 is actually quite advanced for an OEM fluid and is all I use. Brand does not really matter as any company that makes it has to adhere to Chryslers stringent standards and they are all pretty equal. I would highly recomend doing a brake fluid and power steering pump flush as well, they are both overlooked and some of the most important safety features on your truck. Most manufacturers recomend these systems be serviced every 2 years.

[CTcummins24V]

x3 on friction modifier for rear differential(absolutely needed) even though some gear oils say it's included, get the borg warner solenoid, NAPA is having a sale right now $9.99 for a gallon of 15w-40, NAPA ATF+4 is the same as valvoline but cheaper

thermostat?

Edited January 3, 2014 by CTcummins24V

[rseabur]

sounds like I might be in a little over my head on some of the things I should do. Not gonna be a simple dump and fill but want do what needs done. Need to make this thing last another 4-5 years. Want to take care of that tranny. I think the sensor and solenoid might be the cause of why the trans seems to hang in gears sometimes from what I read about it. I was told its just how dodges are. I have always been a GM guy          (go easy on me!) but got a steal of a deal on this truck

[rseabur]

What about oil. Are all brands pretty much equal? Just put in whatever I can find on sale? Not doing Amsoil. Heard the stories of the Rotella smell. Don't do a huge amount of miles a year. Just plan on a yearly change even if I don't hit the 5000 or 7500 mark. Will do a good filter maybe a Fleetguard as the are easy to get.

[mopartechnician]

Ive ran rotella delo mobile. I run fleetguard filters. The sensor and solenoid really change the way the trans shifts. Its easy to do since you will have he pan off. Also a band adjustment isnt hard either and is a must.

[rseabur]

yeah heard of the band adjustment and actually on this forum somewhere. Was going to do that. The Borg Warner sensor and solenoids are hard to find. Anybody got any connections?

[Mopar1973Man]

Here in my fluid pile...

 

Change engine oil with 15w-40 either Exxon or Mobil oils (CJ-4) every 10k miles (book calls for 7,500 miles)

Change Transfer case with ATF+3 every 30k miles.

Transmission NV4500 use Mopar Trans Fluid and change fluid every 100k miles.

Automatics 47RE should use ATF+4 fluid and change every 30k miles with a band adjustment.

Axles / Diff's mine are open diff's so I use straight 80w-90 GL-5 gear lube.

Power Steering fluid I flush the system out using just SuperTech Power Steering fluid.

Coolant I change every 30k miles with either Napa Coolant or SuperTech Coolant and fresh thermostat.

[mopartechnician]

Cascadetransmissionparts.com is where i get all my parts for trans.

[rseabur]

Just found Cascade Transmission Parts web site today and was going to see if anybody has used it. Found the "47RE Solenoid Service Kit" for around $200. Should I go with that or just get governor solenoid and pressure transducer separate. Kit has everything except fluid. Just not sure if I would need some of the extra parts that nobody mentioned.     part # 22420CKP   

[mopartechnician]

See the post right before your last post. I always just get the sensor and solenoid. Thinking about getting he kit when i do mine

[CTcummins24V]

My 3-4 spring was broken, it's easy and cheap to replace. The governor solenoid and pressure transducer are pretty straight forward, the TCC/OD Solenoid is a little more involved. Weld on a drain plug or do an aftermarket pan. I had bad luck with the generic bolt on drain plug, it leaked for me.

[Killer223]

might want to keep the edge turned down till the trans is built to handle it.

[rseabur]

Easy Killer!!  lol....Tranny is doing fine so far @ 80,000 miles. Yes only 80k.... I believe these things were built to handle more than what people think with proper maintenance.  I'm not a drag racer or a coal roller, but is fun to pull up to a sports car and leave them like they are setting still. I can only think that they are asking themselves... "Did that old dually just do that??"  Back to fuild and service recommendations please. I know 15-40w and ATF +4, I know its probably been asked a ton but just looking to see what brands, if any, are performing good and at a reasonable price. I going to do the sensor and solenoid while the pan is off. Prob do a serp belt change and thermostat also. Trying to get ready to hit the camping season hard in the spring.

Edited January 4, 2014 by rseabur

[CTcummins24V]

make sure you get an oem mopar/cummins belt or your belt will squeal, so I've heard. I put a mopar belt on last year and no squealing, with a tensioner as well. I've only had my truck for a year and only about 15,000 miles but I run valvoline premium blue or NAPA brand no problems, on sale for $9.99 to $12/gallon. get at least 190 degree thermostat, temperature is more stable and truck runs better than a 180 thermostat. Everyone will run a different brand, just stay away from big orange oil filters on the cummins

[joecool911]

Which parts of the drivetrain should get a friction modifier? Do you have a specific brand?

[dripley]

The rear diff gets the modifier as long as it is a limited slip diff. If it is an open diff it does not need it. If you are not sure which you have, jack the rear wheels off the ground and spin one of the tires. Limited slip, both will spin the same way and the open will spin the opposite direction.