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Anybody Rebuild Their Own Engines?

socal
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rancherman

rancherman

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Only take in what needs to be machined/measured. Machine shops don't like to disassemble.. I've been

charged for having them remove a couple frost plugs I forgot.

Block, Crank, Rods, Head with valves. Leave everything else home. (valve train, cam, oil pump, anything that bolts on the outside of the castings, (too easy to lose stuff)

re install the main caps, and rod caps. They are needed at the shop.

Take the injectors to a shop for testing/setting.

Have you asked them about what they can get for kits? They can get anything you or I can order, but most shops work out of a main supplier, and sometimes they'll pass on the savings to you, if you use their shop for the machine work.

Seeing how you are going to use your truck, I'd put most of the 'mods' into the trans. I haven't kept up with 'what's the best for automatics' That seems to be an on going evolution... I'm sure the auto guys will chime in for 'current mods' to get a long lived trans

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Wild and Free

Wild and Free

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well i finally got the engine out. gonna call the machine shop tomorrow to see when i can bring it down and  ask if he wants me to tear it down before i bring it. i do want to take the head off to see the pistons. i wanted to ask you guys. my brother told me a trans shop told him to change his stock torque converter to a HD one on his dodge. that the stock one takes a dump. have you guys heard of this and if so what converter should i use. i don't want to have to separate the motor and trans again. also if this was your motor what rebuild kit would you use and is there any mods you would do to it. i only plan on pulling my car trailer, camping trailer, and dump trailer. 

Yes definitely replace the converter with an aftermarket this is the weak link that kills the tranny, also go with an aftermarket valve body right away too, this will help the overall performance of the tranny and make the new converter a lot happier too in the long run.

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Wild and Free

Wild and Free

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BD has good stuff, that is what I ran in my 02, I had their VB and single disc converter and it held my 560 hp 989 tq for many years until I sold it with no issues even though the converter was rated at 450 hp and 750 tq it did good for me while power pulling for several years and running the drag track a few times.

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CTcummins24V

CTcummins24V

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any recommendations on a torque converter and valve body kit? i was looking as BD diesel products

If you order the VB online, make sure it's tested before it gets sent out. I know Goerend tests them and I think BD does as well. Or you can get one like I did that was never tested and didn't work out of the gate and my local tranny guys had to configure it, so I paid twice for a VB. If you have good a local tranny shop that knows dodges, proximity is better, you don't have to worry about shipping and core charges and it saves time and money. I haven't used them but Goerend seems to be tops.

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socal

socal

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i am hooked on that youtube channel . i wish he would finish the latest build he started. there's really no mods to my truck. its pretty much stock. just rv injectors. Yeah Mopar i hear ya. i already started. all i have left is to remove the crank. other then that piston the rest of the engine appears to look in great condition. but i'll take some pics to show you guys 

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socal

socal

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no i was having problems with it when i bought it. it just got worse. maybe he didnt back off on a grade, no pyro meter in it. or he got some dirt in the intake with that cheap air filter. maybe i am wrong but the rest of the engine looks like there is hardly any where. truck only has 195,000 miles on it. and from what every ones tell me, it hasn't even been broke in yet. theres no sign on the stock torque converter to show it got hot. there is a jasper sticker on my door pillar but they didnt circle what was replaced. 

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rancherman

rancherman

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Jasper???  :doh:

 

Did  Chrysler  stamp the   block  with  the  vin  sequence  # ?     It'd  be  fun  to  see if  it  was   the  original  engine.   

You could  go to   cummins.com  and   run  the   cummins  #   and   see   what  vehicle it  was assigned to.      

 

That  'chip'  on the valve,   does it look  like  it  was   broke..  (ususally  will bend the  valve stem, but  not  readily visible  when valve is  closed)   or   flame  cut?   

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MnTom

MnTom

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That looks a lot like an injector was not spraying properly. That would be why the rest of it looks so good. As far as "Not even broke in yet"..... That is one of the biggest BS comments that anyone could make in my opinion. That engine wad broke in a long time ago.

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GSP7

GSP7

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what other years of block can i use, if i can find a bare block or do i have to find a 99. 

Seems you could use a newer block., Maybe just use the 99 crank shaft in it that has the is made for the sensor.

 

I wonder if a newer crank is made to use a sensor also, but the sensor was just omitted from being mounted on the side of the block .

 

 

.

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