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Draw Straw Install and Killer Dowel Pin 24v


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I had two different questions and just lumped them in to one thread. First, does anyone have a good write up for draw straw install? Going to do it Friday and wanted to make sure I have everything I need. Second, I just read somewhere that the 24v's also have the killer dowel pin problem. In my ignorance I thought it was only the 12v. If so how prevalent is it? I worked for a company with a fleet of over 100 6bt and 4bt engines and never saw the killer dowel pin however I did see the bolts back out of the housing on two occasions. I guess I'm wondering if this should be a 911 issue?

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From what I understand, the most prevalent ones are the 1998, 1999, and 2000 trucks. They seem to be hit and miss even in those years. The only way to know for sure is to pull the timing cover. I tabbed mine in 2 1/2 hours in my driveway with hand tools so if you have shop with air tools you should be in the 2 hour range I would expect. Just remember, the fan has left hand threads.

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I have my tank down and the module removed ready for the draw straw. I noticed there is a port on the draw straw for return fuel from the fass. Right now I'm running it back to the filler neck. Is there any benefit running it to the module?

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Yes. You want it return to the module. This returns more fuel right and the suction tip preventing the 1/4 problem. Ask Eric at Vulcan Performance if he has a way to resolve the old filler neck or cap for JIC.

Thanks Mike. So I can eliminate the filler neck tee now and both of my fuel returns will go directly into the draw straw/basket

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Should I be worried on my 98 I have 315k what happen when it falls out. I thought that was a 12v issue. Hmm one more to add to the list

Some of the early 24 valve engines had the KDP problem. The only way to know is to open it up, although at that mileage, if it was going to fall out it probably would have by now. For a couple of hours labor you can find out for sure.

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