Teardown and Rebuild

[CTcummins24V]

Thanks rburks!

The engine hasn't been touched. Tonight will consist of cleaning all mating surfaces, checking ring gap (grinding if necessary), and prepping the garage to work. If I still have time I might start throwing parts on it.

 

I take it you don't have a Mrs. yet? haha. They don't take kindly to working on your "stupid truck" on weekend nights

[TFaoro]

I take it you don't have a Mrs. yet? haha. They don't take kindly to working on your "stupid truck" on weekend nights

I am not married.... but she is gone this weekend. Plus she'll come over and help me get things ready if I ask! I don't think that'll last too long haha!

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

I think this absolutely needs to be done differently than previous Articles, Justice would not be done to the WEALTH of great information housed in this thread.

 

     I think a lot of information will get lost in the Basic Traditional format, you no" trying to summarize it". I would go with A layout such as chapter and page's with using attached links to each segment of the rebuild

 

Like maybe the TITLE would be      "5.9 Cummins Bullet Proof Rebuild"    This would be the  Pinned Article page 

        

                                                        Then the link or icon WHICH REFERS to attached article segments stored in Photo bucket, iCloud ,etc..for each segment "Chapter of the rebuild like

   1. REMOVAL FROM TRUCK

   2. ENGINE BLOCK DISSEMBLED  

​                                                      3.  "STARTING BACK TOGETHER" ENGINE BLOCK REBUILD

• Reinstall RODS AND MAINS Bearings, and CRANK
• REINSTALL CAM bearings And cam
• Reinstall Tappet covers
• reINSTALL front timing and accessory Gears
• reinstall fnt timing gear case assembly 
• List of UPGRADED Parts and vendors used
• Discussion

                                                      4. ​​CYLINDER HEAD REBUILD​​

• Dissembled from block
• Machine work
• Valves Reinstalled
• List of upgraded parts and vendor used
• Discussion

                                                     5.   FINAL ASSEMBLY  

• Mating Cyl. head back to block
• reinstall exh. manifold
• Intake cover
• turbo 
• ALT
• P/S Vacuum pump
• ECM
• VP PUMP
• Fuel injectors crossover tubes
• fuelines
• front gear case cover
• Thermostat housing assem
• waterpump 
• FAN

                   

 6. ENGINE REINSTALLED BACK INT TRUCK

 

    **note**some Discussion and explanation of upgraded parts used like why you choose them over other choices and maybe a few reply's and post from members,...in regards"only to the topic of the discussion of that "SEGMENT.

                                               

i have pictures of a full rebuild from bare block to finish that i need to make a article about. ill try to do it within the next week and half as i am moving to wisconsin for new job.

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

working on building article now i figured out how to upload pics fast and now im just writing

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

ok rough article is up

 

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/481-24v-cummins-rebuild-step-by-step?hitcount=0

[TFaoro]

I'm making some progress....

 

Check piston ring gaps and set them when they were off.

 

New starter contacts. This is oem vs Larry B's

 

One installed

 

Oil pan, front cover, and 12V tappet cover all prepped for paint tomorrow. Plan is to drop everything in early in the morning, then paint later. Hopefully get around to the transmission tomorrow afternoon or saturday. 

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

looking good TF!

[diesel4life]

Looking good!

If your venting the crank case through the 12 valve tappet cover, how are you blocking off the front of the cover?

On the VP marine pistons I never even knew there was such a thing as a VP marine engine. With marine emissions requirements being similar to off road/construction/Ag engines I thought they went straight from the 12 valve head/P Pump to 24 valve CR.

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

Looking good!

If your venting the crank case through the 12 valve tappet cover, how are you blocking off the front of the cover?

On the VP marine pistons I never even knew there was such a thing as a VP marine engine. With marine emissions requirements being similar to off road/construction/Ag engines I thought they went straight from the 12 valve head/P Pump to 24 valve CR.

you could just use a pvc stub with a cap hose clamped to a short hose that is there.

[TFaoro]

Looking good!

If your venting the crank case through the 12 valve tappet cover, how are you blocking off the front of the cover?

On the VP marine pistons I never even knew there was such a thing as a VP marine engine. With marine emissions requirements being similar to off road/construction/Ag engines I thought they went straight from the 12 valve head/P Pump to 24 valve CR.

Thank you. I am going to run two vents... One will go into a catch can the other will be to atmosphere. This motor is built to hold 700+ all day long, so it's going to have slightly more blowby than your average engine. It won't be anything extreme though.

I never kept up with the marine stuff, so I can't help with that info. These are marine pistons though.

[TFaoro]

Alright tons to update:

 

Started the day off by putting the rods on the new pistons. 

 

 

All done.

 

Then I bolted on the front cover

 

Dropped in the tappets. The lube for those was like grease!

 

Stuck the cam in.

 

 

Put in the billet piston cooling jets. They had to be driven in with a punch... Very tight fit! Here's where they start and end up.

 

Seated.

 

Dropped in the tops of the main bearings.

 

Pulled the crank out of its wrap. Even has my name on it!

 

That is the point I went OH SH**. The crank gear doesn't fit past the timing case.... Pulled the cam back out, and took the front timing case back off. My original thought was to do the cam first because I could reach in and guide it as it went in, but that backfired. I guess I should have put it back together the way I took it apart! O well I was wrong. So we dropped the crank in, torqued the mains, installed the timing case, and put the cam back in again. Only lost about 20 min so the day was still going well.

 

 

Started installing pistons.

 

 

[TFaoro]

Here's where things went bad.... So the oil ring popped out of the compressor on one of the pistons. No big deal it happens all the time, so we put it back in the vice. Got everything back in and popped the piston in the hole. I had a bad feeling about it so I decided to pull it back out. Well a chunk of the oil control ring fell out when the piston came out. Right away I called the guy who machined the motor and let him know what happened. He said no problem... get here before I close and you can have an oil ring for free. So I drove 125 miles up there and got the ring just before he closed. Came back home... after 4 hours of driving I was tired but kept working. So we popped that piston and the last two in. Here they are all in.

 

I then flipped it over, loosened each of the rod bolts and re-torqued them down again. Put the pan gasket and pickup tube in. Then dropped the pan on.

 

Rolled it over, put the studs in, and dropped the head gasket on it.

 

 

Went and grabbed the head. Here's some pics before I installed it.

 

 

 

Set the head on. Man that was easy with the studs sticking out!

 

I then torqued the head down to 40, 80, 130. Tomorrow I will loosen each stud (individually) twice and re-torque it. This is EASY compared to doing it on a CR with twins.

Threw the valve cover and gasket on it for tonight. Also threw the front cover on to keep dirt out.

 

Here's how she sits for the night. The plan tomorrow is to do the studs, and bolt on everything else that we can before paint. I'll then paint it and rebuild the transmission while the paint dries. Hoping to drop the motor back in the truck Sunday.

[Wild and Free]

You just lost warranty..................Engine assembly lube on a Cummins is the biggest no no in the world, at a shop I worked for we did a warranty overhaul on an N14 in a Steiger CaseIh tractor and it ran for a whole 10 minutes before it locked up due to a combination of using engine assembly lube and the boss being too cheap to buy an engine pre-lube pump Cummins denied the warranty due to engine assembly lube alone the they found out the shop didn't have an pre-lube pump. Was a 30K engine the shop had to eat due to those 2 things.

 

Diesel 101 everything gets assembled with new clean engine oil period, no grease or engine assembly lubes. I have seen too many failures over the years caused by engine assembly lube.

 

What really scared me was seeing the pistons coated with it in your pics.

 

If you can find an engine pre-lube pump I would use it a ton to flush as much of that white crap out as you can before firing the engine, spend lots of time turning it over by hand while doing it.

[bjytech]

Seeing the pistons coated in assembly lube worried me too, that thing will smoke for quite a while after it's started with all that stuff in there.

[Mopar1973Man]

Back in the day I use to have a old distributor modified for hooking up the drill to it and spinning the oil pump around till oil pressure was up. Then once the engine was installed in the truck I would leave the coil wire off and spin starter till oil pressure was up. The fire up the engine. I also don't use assembly lube except on bearing surfaces. (Like doing a in frame of bearing change). But if you have a way of pre-loading the oil system before starting then you have no need for assembly lube. You could take your old oil pump and modify it as in remove the idler gear and modify it so it can be spun with a drill. At least then the entire engine is loaded with oil.

[TFaoro]

I'm not here to argue right and wrong. The BOOK says to use engine assembly lube in many of the places, specifically the stuff I bought. The guy I learned how to rebuild diesels from has rebuilt hundreds of OTR truck engines with ZERO failures. I am not in the slightest bit concerned that something is going to get hurt.

 

I do plan to turn the engine over with the starter and no injectors until it builds oil pressure. The white lube will melt into the oil and won't hurt a thing. Thanks for looking

[joecool911]

Looking awesome! Thanks for sharing with us. Been following with interest. Although I doubt I would ever do such a project myself. Hopefully won't ever be necessary.

[Mopar1973Man]

I do plan to turn the engine over with the starter and no injectors until it builds oil pressure. The white lube will melt into the oil and won't hurt a thing. Thanks for looking

 

 

That should work too.

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

one trick to prime is pack the oil pump with grease so it will pull suction.

 

when i rebuilt mine i used assembly lube on the bearings and cam nothing more. a light coating of engine oil in the bore and on the piston skirt to aid in insertion.

 

Hope all works well for startup!

[TFaoro]

Sorry not much time for an update... It's 2:45 am here. I'll throw up some eye candy for the night though.

 

Started here

 

Mid day

 

Pulled tape. Started putting accessories on. (oil block-off plug, bell housing, mechanical lift pump plate ect)

 

Ended here. Tape is still on the valve cover because I have to paint the exhaust side of the head with 2000* paint. 

 

 

Did a little work on the injection lines too.

 

Clutch / billet rear freeze plug.

 

Exhaust side