2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,279 topics in this forum
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I have a leak in the front of the engine it's right by the slobber tube but has gone from sitting a week and leaving one drop no bigger than a penny to leaving that overnight. It appears to increase while running the engine, sometimes... pictures explain more it's got enough oil everywhere that I will have to clean it up somehow to even figure out what is leaking... When I replaced the body I cleaned as much as I could around the slobber tube but 340,00ish miles causes quite a caked on mess that needs to be cleaned. Questions are what would be leaking in there front crank seal or cam seal? If I have to replace either how hard is it I'm extremely busy so i…
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- 8 replies
- 2.3k views
- 1 follower
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I recently bought a new to me 1999 2500. Low miles, 124k. My issue I'm having is I have codes p1964, no ccd bus and the companion code. I have no wait to start or an intermittent wait to start. What I have found weird is if I unhook my grounds for 5-10 mins then reconnect them the wait to start is immediate for 3-4 key cycles, then goes back to intermittent or not at all. I found this out when I put on new military cable ends, the grounds wouldn't stay tight. Pickup runs fine, doesn't want to start when it's super cold, which makes sense with no wait to start but when it's warm it pops right off and runs great. Also another side note I have had it…
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- 12 replies
- 743 views
- 2 followers
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I’ve had my fuel boss on for years. No issues other then replacing dried out cracked rubber fuel lines over time. I want to delete my oem fuel filter and run a frame mounted setup like GDP’s stand alone filter w/ heater. By using a FS19596 filter I can have a connection for the oem wif sensor. I also want to delete the oem electric lift pump. Has anyone here bypassed the stock lift pump and ran straight mechanical? And if so how did you plumb it? Im thinking 3/8” line from tank to filter, then to mech. pump then to VP44. But I need to regulate the pressure with the bypass valve so should I tee it from the return side up to the vp? The r…
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- 5 replies
- 2.1k views
- 3 followers
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So my stock exhaust manifold on my 2000 cracked the other day. I have a 98 with a cracked block that I'm robbing the manifold from. The one I'm robbing is a 3 piece ATS. Problem is, ATS manifold has 4 studs in it, while the stock turbo has 2 studs in it. Which one would you guys drill out the holes on to get them to mate together? I'm not ready yet to put the compounds from the donor truck on my 2000 yet.
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- 4 replies
- 522 views
- 2 followers
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First, and foremost, I was inspired to perform this modification by @Mace (a new member with lots of knowledge) who provided the idea - I never would have thought to do it on my own. I also want to thank him for providing the "how to do it " information as well as a list of parts. Well, I am finished, but I didn't do it the way Mace from Kamloops did it and in no way is my modification any better that what Mace did - in fact, some may prefer his modification over mine. After much of going this way and then that way and then repeating myself, I just finally came to a stand still. So, I stopped working and started thinking about what I really wa…
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- 14 replies
- 1.5k views
- 5 followers
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Oil pressure gauge has intermittently been working for the past couple days, been working on start up then I'll start driving and it will randomly drop then come back alive. Seems like it likes to drop out more so when I come to a stop and the truck is idling with lower oil pressure. When I'm cruising and have like 40 psi it usually stays alive. If I come to a stop and it does while I'm sitting there idling I can rev and hold it at like 1100 then it magically comes back alive on the dash. Is this most likely the oil pressure sensor? Or could it be a bad ground somewhere? Sitting idling right now and it's jumping back and fourth check gauges light will come on it will drop…
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- 6 replies
- 466 views
- 3 followers
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I'm working on my VP44 and ECM projects and need to know how much fuel is actually injected by the injection pump. This is so I can calculate a fuel rate in milli Liters for determining engine load and also for the overhead trip, mileage display computer. So i dug out my old VP44 core and did some measurements. I thought I would share what I found and get some confirmation or feedback. This is a SO pump with three injection plungers they are 7.3 mm diameter. The cam donut has a thickness of 10.5 mm at the maximum inward point and a thickness of 7.1 mm at the maximum outward point. So 10.5 - 7.1 = 3.4 mm of stroke. I don't have an ultra pr…
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- 5 replies
- 9.5k views
- 3 followers
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So I've been hearing some chatter while coasting on the highway, i initially thought I was just in need of a valve adjustment because it sounds so similar to chattery valves I've heard on other engines. Did a valve adjustment and the noise is still present. After some long drives on the highway I realized if I'm coasting and put the slightest bit of pressure on the clutch the noise goes away. And when I say slight I mean slight, you could lean and empty sneaker or work boot on the pedal and the noise dissapears. I also noticed if I'm coasting and press the clutch pedal in and let it out the noise is gone for 5 seconds or so then returns. There's no noise if I coast for a …
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- 16 replies
- 1.1k views
- 3 followers
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I’m new here. But saying that I want to pass some info on to members about the 24v apps that should not be overlooked. Cummins does NOT make the apps for our trucks. They don’t even sell them. It’s the responsibility of the oem to make a control apparatus for their engines. Cummins makes engines not control mechanisms. The correct apps for our trucks is the Williams Control (WC) 131973. Holdwell makes the jumper harness to go to the Duetsch connector on the ISB engine harness. The amount of fake ones available online is staggering. If their name isn’t on the sensor or it’s blank it’s counterfeit. So, if you got a “Timbo” it’s j…
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- 4 replies
- 758 views
- 3 followers
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I decided to open source my stand alone VP44 electronics project. I started a github repository. It's far from a bolt on replacement. It's just a prototype but it has been running reliably for a couple of years now. Unfortunately, it's not a project for beginners and requires good soldering experience and there is one surface mount part on the board. The circuits have some high energy parts and requires some testing before operating. The software is not simple and has time critical routines. An in depth understanding of the MCU internal peripherals (timers, PWM) is also required. Any mistakes in assembly or coding can cause permanent damage to th…
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- 1 reply
- 1.1k views
- 2 followers
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Guys I am at a loss. I HOPE someone can help me, this is frustrating. Bought my first 24v Cummins, it’s an 01, 3500 dually, and 5 speed nv4500. She fires up beautifully, idles normally. Then it gots warm and it idles up, stays around 1500rpm or so. The tachometer isn’t working, I tried replacing the camshaft position sensor and it didn’t fix the tachometer, maybe communication issue? Does the CPS have anything to do with idle? OBD2 computer says idling at 1500rpm. The APPS sensor was replaced, and voltage set. Stays below 0.50 volts, around .44-.48. According to the sensors live data reading, the volta…
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- 42 replies
- 2.8k views
- 4 followers
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Hey folks, been lingering around this forum for years. Best site for reliable info. My truck: 2000 24V with 262K, Edge Comp Box(VP44 is Tapped), Airdog 150 Lift Pump, 4" Exhaust, S&B CAI, ATS 48RE(Don't Ask lol) Upgrade parts in question: HE351CW and DAP VCO 7x0.009 Injectors. All on 265X75r16 tires. Recently l purchased a used HE351CW off the marketplace for $50. It was in bad shape, I opted for a Spoologic billet cartridge instead of rebuilding. Along with the turbo, I purchased DAP VCO 7x.009 injectors to spin it. Project went smooth besides the dozens of boost leaks giving me hell. Countless hours later, with all the boost leaks resolved…
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- 13 replies
- 932 views
- 3 followers
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I'm working on a home made ECM for my truck to go along with my VP44 project. I almost found an ECM today on a burned up truck but the wiring was burned all the way to the ECM so i figured it was toast. The guy wouldn't sell it, I would have to buy the motor and he said the VP44 was bad with hot start issues. He had a V10 (blown) dually that he was going to put the cummins in. He wanted me to buy both. If he had a manual tranny in the deal I would have took it. But I skipped it. The usual diagram that many of us use has some errors in the pin names and functions. From all my VP research I know many of the details of these pin functions and thought…
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- 5 replies
- 1.3k views
- 2 followers
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Started her up after about a month of it not running this past July. Drove her across town maybe 10 minutes to the store. when i came back to the parking lot and turned the key i get a single click from the starter solenoid. I hastily buy two new batteries as it was a friday evening nearing closing time for the auto parts store. replaced the batteries and still got the single click at the starter, i decide to give the starter motor couple bangs to see if it helps but no luck. As it got dark out, i called a tow and got her home, when the tow pulled up to the house i rolled her off the flat bed in 2nd gear and she started right up. i didnt get around to working on the probl…
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- 7 replies
- 774 views
- 2 followers
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Looking for some help with diagnosing why the tach and oil pressure gauge aren’t getting signal. Gauges have been tested and work fine. I’ve installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge and it shows good pressure. I have RPM’s within range. Was a good running & driving pickup but had a cracked 53 block. I had a mechanic build me a new engine. He used a 2004 5.9 common rail block with my original VP head. Long story short he went out of business and I ended up getting the truck back unfinished. I installed the factory cam and cam gear and gear case and mounted the factory reluctor ring in front of the balancer. Multiple ecm’s and pcm’s later I finally have the engine star…
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- 0 replies
- 337 views
- 1 follower
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So, a little back story first. About 2 weeks ago the wife and I went to the store. After finishing shopping, walking to the truck I noticed something under the truck. It was the fuel tank. Luckily not fully on the ground. The rear tank strap broke. I knew it was rusted but didn't know I was that close to a big problem. I grabbed a couple rachet straps from the tool box and strapped it up just to get home. One home I reattached the filler neck and vent hoses and proceeded to strap it up with a 2 inch strap to hold it in place while waiting on parts. I have to give a shout out to @Genos Garage! They had the straps I needed in stainless! I replaced them both tod…
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- 0 replies
- 292 views
- 1 follower
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Hi guys, I’ve been troubleshooting my P1690 code using Mopar1973man’s forum and found myself stuck on step 7. The procedure says to check resistance between FPCM pin 8 and ground. My problem is that i’m not seeing any continuity here. I do however have good resistance from FPCM pin 8 to ECM pin 18 (which was an earlier step in the procedure). Looking through the wiring diagrams I don’t see how FPCM pin 8 gets ground. Should I really be getting ground from pin 8? Any input for where this ground gets picked up is appreciated.
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- 7 replies
- 926 views
- 4 followers
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My truck is now on its 3rd alternator since getting the truck last September. Previous owner a friend of mine put one in and it died on me about 3 months in and was under warranty. Second one lasted until yesterday morning was about 50-60 degrees out started the truck the check gauges light stayed on for 20 seconds or so then came up to 14v drove 20 seconds up the street and it dropped back down so I pulled over and the alternator was smoking hot and litterally smoking. Never came back up to 14v still spins freely. Ended up getting another on under warranty at orileys. I think they are the ultima brand i can find out though. What gives though? Truck was fine yesterday and…
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- 15 replies
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- 5 followers
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02 24v i swapped 5spd in place of the auto. Im still using auto ecm/pcm with no check engine lights. Occasionally the trans temp light stays on for a few min then shuts off. The throttle response is weird and Occasionally wont rev past 19-2000rpm. Apps checked out. I've been using the search function and have found that i need ecm/pcm reflashed? Does anyone know if this can be accomplished with a tuner? (Or do i need to find a manual ecm/pcm.)If so any recommendations? I already tried calling a dealer. They had absolutely no idea what I was talking about. Any advice is appreciated.
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- 10 replies
- 659 views
- 3 followers
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2001 Dodge 2500-manual trans. Problem started when I lost prime voltage to lift pump CEL (check engine light P1693 code) power supply wire tested at 8.2 volts in the start prime position but I had good voltage in run. Sent ECM in for testing repairs. -Repaired/tested ECM had good lift pump voltage after repairs, no codes or CEL but severely delayed throttle response to the point it was un-drivable. Tested APPS as per Mopar1973 posts. -ECM Vendor provided replacement rebuilt ECM, Truck runs, good voltages to lift pump, as soon as I pull onto the road I get CEL/MIL P1693 code unable to pull any other sub codes. Used 3 different OBD II scanners with nothing. -Repl…
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- 7 replies
- 1.1k views
- 3 followers
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