3rd Generation Dodge
This is a discussion forum of the 2003 to 2009 3rd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L and 6.7L Common Rail Cummins Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system.
1,142 topics in this forum
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I would like to clear the check engine light and clear (permanent?) DTC P0072 so I can smog my truck. P2509 also comes up. Dealer wants to flash the PCM for $175. I already repaced the ambient air tem sensor twice, wireing inspected... Two years ago P0072 went away after installing the new sensor. Thanks 5 Volts are going to the sensor and the sensor reads 11000 Ohms. Is there any way to clear codes on a 2007 5.9 ? My Bosch OBDii scanner erases every code except the P0072. Clains the current is low but it has 5 Volts going to the sensor.Truck runs perfect except for windshield wiper electrical flaw.They stop in the middle of the window and the lowest set…
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small hair line crack in transfer case 2004 3500 jb weld maybe help
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Friend with 06 auto wants to change to a NV 5600. Will it physically fit the space? He found a 5600 and all the parts. Any thoughts? What are some of the major stumbling blocks? Thanks in advance.
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So, on my 08, Wife was pulling it into the driveway last night, the FRONT passenger side parking light was on while she was pressing the brake. release the brake, light goes out. i have her double check, all the lights work when the light switch, everything seems to be ok. but this cross feed or something.. again. press brake, front right passenger parking light will illuminate.
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Rebuilt motor in frame, due to dropped valve New injectors, studs, head gasket, gauges Holset turbo = failure within 7 days (oil into exhaust side) Replaced with cheap eBay turbo = excessive shaft play within 14 days AFE blade runner= 3 weeks starting to show signs of excessive shaft play.... And slight oil blow through exhaust side This is getting really old.... Replaced oil feed line and adapter at the turbo when I installed the eBay turbo with new ones... Any advice or help???
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I usually plug the block heater in when the nights get in the low 20s or lower, and my 03 always starts good with the grid heater. However I have noticed this winter when I start and let it warm up in the 32 degree range +/- it tends to start "chugging" after idling a bit?? If it were a gas engine you might think it had a cam with some overlap in it... anyway.. drivability is still good, and after it warms up everything seems normal. I wouldn't think much about it except that it did not used to do this. No CEL, and I have not checked any codes yet.. just wondering if this might be symptoms of a sensor issue, or injectors starting to crap?
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so my 08 has always puffed a white puff at first start up of the day. kinda looks like an older 350 that has leaking valve guides. it goes away like 1/2 second later. So this morning the boy and i were headed to go moto, temp was high teen low 20's the first 15 miles was flat ground, truck up to temp. then the decent happens, it's about 20 miles long. i notice out the tail pip every now and then white smoke. puff here puff there. sometimes a longer trail. 300 yards long. has to be in the shadow to see it. in the morning sun it's non detectable. so my thought was the cold air temp maybe? or is it time to buy injectors? do i have to have a dealer set the codes? or…
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Hey everyone! I just purchased a 2008 2500 4x4 Auto Laramie with total wife approval. Truck is all stock except what's noted below. I know gauges are important with diesels (I've had a '99 for years), but admittedly I'm not sure what gauges are necessary for the 6.7L. My plans for the truck are primarily daily driving with some light towing. Currently, the truck has been deleted with a mini maxx installed by the previous owner and has been on the "street" tune. So, is my transmission safe on that tune or should I change it to the stock tune? And what gauges do you recommend? Thanks!
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hey there guys just need some help iam using my jake and it locks on and then i dont have any throttle and know my volt gauge on my truck is setting at 10 volts but it starts and runs just fine need some advice ?
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I have a 2008 CTD with 75k miles. I deleted the pfg,egr with a sinister diesel kit, 5in turbo back exhaust and H&S mini maxx. The truck ran 100% perfect. I fueled up 3/4 tank from Kroger grocery gas station and the truck ran fine, the next day driving home from work, the truck started to sputter a bit while pulling into my driveway. As i accelerated a bit there was no power and a bunch of white smoke. I shut the truck off and it would not restart. I checked for codes and there were no DTC's i opened the diesel water separator valve and a heavy stream was pouring out, i re primed a few times and bam! It started and ran fine. I let it idle there was no white smoke, i sh…
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Newbie here, and this I my first post. I am a 61 year old farmer in South Carolina and my truck is a 2006 Dodge 3500 with a 5.9 Cummins. I'm about to hit 150,000 miles on the odometer and consider this truck just barely broken in. The transmission is a Garmon Stage 2, built 2 years ago, and I run an EFI Live tow tune. Of all the trucks I've owned since 1978, this one is by far my favorite. At least till now, Lol. About a year ago it started cycling the torque converter in and out between 45 and 50 mph. This problem occurred before I put the EFI Live tune on it. I have taken it back to Garmon twice and to my local transmission shop many times with no improvement. …
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To replace or not to replace. right now i have the money to replace my injectors in my 08, there are a few sign of them going bad.. i think. every now and then i have a long crank before it fires off. totally random. they have 155K on them. but are bloody expensive. So, should i bite the bullet and get them? i've never installed them. i've read horror story after horror story of botched installs. or i'd have a local shop install them. this is kinda a preventative maintenance thing. So thoughts.
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Anybody know where I can get a couple cowl plugs... Not sure what they are called. You have to pull them to take the push rods out. The rubber grommet things up under the cowl. 2004 2500 4*4
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First off I can say there is no error codes to the APPS sensor. There is a wastegate error (IIRC) P0234. Still there is a dead pedal issue but no codes. I want to verify that I should replace the APPS sensor or not first. When it does dead pedal the exhaust will set and and no throttle. @Taz said yesterday he had no exhaust brake at all and dead pedal 4 times in 15 miles. Any help?
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Hello. Does anyone know where I can find the voltage ranges for the modules that are ran by fuse 11. Fuse 11 consists of sentry key remote entry, cluster, radio, hands free, satillite receiver, monitor/DVD and electronoc overhead. I have looked everywhere. Thanks!
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So i have searched and searched. i can't for the life of me find how to get my 08 transfer case into neutral. it has a little button you press with a pen. i've pressed this button and it blinks. i've tried rolling slowly, trans in N, clutch in clutch out. going from 4L to N, 4H to N. no luck. so either my truck has issues, or i do.. neither of i'd be surprised at. thanks.
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I have made new developments in this electrical issue. I pulled all the fuses on TIPM and tested the panel as I put them in one at a time. When testing B+ from ECM to fuse 42(one side) I got power coming from ECM to test light when I plugged fuse 6 and 11. Which means a short somewhere but where? I've looked over these wires a million times and re did the grounds til shiny. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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It's been more than a few years since I've had to replace the bulbs...............................but "Holy Price Hike Batman"!!!!!! $25.99 for 2 Sylvania bulbs..................the low end ones to boot. Mid-range was $34.99 and the "top of the line" ones were $54.99!!!!
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I need my alternator tested. Every place I've called says we can do it but I've read on here not all tests are the same. I read from one poster that he had autozone and another one test his and it was fine but ended up at Napa and they said it was cooked. What do they test for that's different? Thanks
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We have been at this truck for weeks now. I bought it about 3months ago and it just sounded like it needed new injectors. In the last 3weeks we have replaced the injectors 3 times because it keeps sounding the same. Its a constant misfire whether at idle or acceleration. I pulled the codes with my scan tool and its giving codes p0193, p0113, p0237, p0069, p0483. Also it says fuel rail pressure relative to map. We have checked over and tested the wiring harnesses and this is what we have come up (truck in run position) the fan has 5volts, the cam black/blue 35ohms tan/yellow 5.1v grey/black millivolts, map sen shows 5volts on feed wire the ground was within specs but the …
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