2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hey guys! I've been lurking around this site for a while. I've gotten lots of valuable info for keeping my trucks going. I have a 2001 2500 that has been giving me issues for a while(2 years now)- hopefully I can find some knowledge here. the truck runs fine when its cold, as it heats up the power will cut out, then come back. I have taken it to a couple of mechanics and they haven't been able to figure out the problem.we ran it one day with the Modus attached- TPS is fine, CPS is fine, only thing we could see funny was that as it was cutting out/ powering up the Calculated load value was jumping from 0% to 100%. anyone know how the computer calculates the load value?…

Finally got everything buttoned up tonight and fired it up, only to notice a small, but steady stream of ATF coming out near the front of the trans. Further tracing of the leak found a hole worn through the hard line that runs from the heat exchanger up to the trans cooler. So, I cut that worn section out and fitted a section of hose and clamps in place to hold over til I get the new lines ordered. Anyway, after that drain-and-refill exercise, we took it off the jacks and loaded tools and such in the bed, and headed home. About 2 miles in (and this is in 4am traffic, mind you, i.e., non-existant) with some basic testing of functionality like downshifts, WOT 1-2 and 2-3, …

Have followed the forum concerning using 2 cyc oil. Have about made up my mind to start using it. I have a FASS Lift Pump with a 3/8 in inline filter and the OME filter upfront. I'm using a Quest filter upfront. I have recently used Lucas as an additive but it should be cleared out by now. I'm currently in Texas and will be retuning to SC after the 4th of July. Does anyone see any problem with starting using it now? I have 6k miles since I changed the upfront filter. Mohok

I was coming home yesterday towing my trailer and a car on it cruising at 70 mph in cruise all off a sudden the rear tires locked up and I skidded to a stop leaving a nice long set of dually tracks on the road. Luckily I wasn't on to big of a highway. Anyway initially I thought rear end was locked up but that's not the case. The trucked would not pull forward at all, but when the roll back pulled the truck backwards it rolled smooth and then when he pulled it forward after pulling it backwards it pulled fine no issues. Unloaded the truck and I drove it into the shop. Now I haven't broke into anything yet the driveshaft doesnt seem twisted all the u joints are still tight …

1999 dodge cummins, 5 speed, 4x4, duelly.The truck died going down the highway and will not start back. Truck has 210,000 milesno codesreplaced IAT sensorreplaced MAP sensorreplaced lift pumpreplaced filterreplaced vp44removed edge programmerwill start but not run on starting fluidbatteries goodgrounds cleanThe truck turns over but gets no fuel, lights work, dash works, intake heater worksIs it possible the cummins ecm died and if so can it be tested?

Hello every one yes It's me again!! I have a weird Idling @ start up any time regardless of weather temperature and effecting battery amps. after getting warm abut 160 or 165 no up & down but still high rpm Please tell me what is going on? Is there any way I can post the video more than 24.82mb so you can see Exactly what I mean? my video is larger than we allowed.

I've found a good place to mount my Fass titanium relay on my '99 and rout the harness in the engine bay. Mocking things up. Was curious where others mounted your fass relay switch and ran your harness on your 2nd gen

After reading Mike's write up on cleaning injectors... Do they have to be pop tested afterward??? thx

Hello all, I just installed a new Gearotor/Motor tower assembly on my Air Dog FP-100. While it was out on the bench, I noticed there was some debris in the pre-filter screen at the inlet to the water separator. It looks like disintegrated paper, I think my wife had the small cardboard seal in the cap of a bottle of fuel treatment fall into the tank months back. Now it has broken down and the fibers are clogging the screen. I have 1/2" fuel lines for the whole system, can anyone recommend a good in-line filter to cut into the pump supply line? I would like one that I can disassemble to replace the element and clean. Most of the in-line filters I have seen are for 1…

Aright, I'm trying to diagnose if its my valve cover gasket thats leaking. It may even be an old leak, too. I have some oil staining if you would call it that, that is at the rear. It can only come from the valve cover as it is to high for anything else. I have torqued the cover down and then retorqued after so long. I will double check again to see if it is still indeed leaking.Although, I called O'reilly's, and they sell the gasket for $126! WHHAAATTT!That is out of this world! Where could I get one cheaper?

Need an ecm anyone know the best replacement for 2002 24v auto?

Thinking I (want or need) more fuel filtering. Right now no problems with airdog 95 or 100 (cant remember which) going from tank to airdog directly to vp44. 2 or 3 micron I believe. Want to install a 8 or 10 micron before fuel goes thru airdog filter. In late 90's or 2000's at work some of our trucks had water and fuel filter that was plastic see thru, that you could just look at and see fuel drizzle down into plastic bowl or not. Getting a visual on fuel came in handy to see if any fuel problems going on. Like out of fuel, pump not working etc. ( I do have a fuel pressure gauge) never had a problem with cracking or leaking. I'm trying to find a system …

I'm a Non Motor Head Old Fart. My truck is described in the Sig Sec of this post. I currently tow a T/T of 8K. My CGVW is 16K (8K Truck & 8K Trailer) as per Dodge. I want to move up to towing 14K . What do I need to do, if anything? I have Boost, EGT, and Tranny Gauges. I have a Banks P/P and a S&B Cold Air Intake. :confused

American Petroleum Institute (API) oil selection guide. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=78

Are both these things snubbers? The "sinster" one holds back pressure more, giving it a blow test. But if any breaks off would not want particles going thru system or are they better?

I'm helping a buddy with his 1998 3500. Has the nv4500 on it. How and the heck do you bleed out the slave cylinder? I can't find any thing on it to bleed it with. [ATTACH]4518[/ATTACH][ATTACH]4519[/ATTACH]Thanks for the help!

Good day. Over the past year I occasionally open my hood to see dryed antifreeze spotted on my upper rad hose and valve cover. My temp has always been fine, I never really have to add antifreeze to the truck because it looks like the "leak" is more of a spray. Figured it was a bad/old hose looks like the area of loss is always at the horn into the motor. Took Genos Garage up on it's hose discount of April and ordered up new hoses and clamps, installed them, did a coolant flush and things have been fine. A few days ago I got out of my truck to walk into work and there was a puddle underneath, popped the hood and everything was soaked from the same area. I wire brushed that…

Alright so I was curious as to know what that meant, to over spin a turbo. Well, I dunno if my circumstances will make that an instance or not. But looking it up, I found this: I have seen more than once, our trucks produce a puff of smoke. Sometimes my smoke is white, sometimes black. I just associated it with the diesel. But then again, how relevant is this to us? Makes me wonder if I have overspun or of the previous owners have overspun the turbo?

Is there a way to adjust timer for dome light? When I use remote to open doors dome light will be on for about a minute and there is no way to shut it off, unless I push lock button on key pad. Sometimes leaving store parking lots is annoying because I can't see where I'm going from light reflection. Plus every one outside stares at you . It may be the way it is but I hope there is a way to change it. Lets say when I get in a truck and shut the door lights should shut off, but the only time that works if I use a key to get in, or don't luck the truck at all. Thanks for any input.

After MUCH wading through and reading I found this installation instruction manual for the Cummins/Fleetguard model CH41102 Centrifual Bypass Oil Filter which apparent is the correct filter for use on our 5.9 and 6.7 liter truck engines. Hope this and the training tutorial I posted helps to shine a bit more light and understanding of just how and why these filters work and the tremendous benefits they offer. http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/product_lit/americas_brochures/SB_LT32597.pdf