2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Anyone know the factory spec's for the lift pump on a 2000 5.9 24 valve? Would like to know what cummins has to say on the pressure. I will be adding a aftermarket lift pump. But would like to know what the factory specs are also. Pete

Who has had Delay in "Wait to Start" light , delay in lift pump run when ignition is turned on ? My delay seems to be about 4 seconds. Once the Wait to Start light comes on my truck will fire right up. What was the cause and fix ?

HelloDuring a routine valve adjustment the shop noticed that my exhaust manifold is cracked between 3 and 4. I plan on replacing with an aftermarket, they are reccomending the BD manifold, what is everone using? Is one better than the other? Also can about a 100 deg higher EGT than normal for the last 2 years that i could never explain no boost leaks whatsoever poor economy be chaulked up to the cracked manifold???Thanks eveyone

Hello, new member, 1st post. Long time dodge CTD owner. Have lurked on many of the Diesel forums but never joined one. This one seems more laid back and relaxed then some I read info on. I just picked up my 3rd 24v 2nd gen truck a few weeks ago. It's a stone stock 98.5 24v, just had a reman IP pump put on it less then 4,000 miles before I bought it. I bought a 1999 brand new in the fall of 1998, I could write a novel about that trucks healthy appetite for lift & IP pumps and my experiences with cummins and dodge about it. But that is not a new story. No one had an aftermarket fix for those trucks back in the day when they were brand new, like a AD/Fass. …

my air dog and it will hold pressure but when on the throttle hard it losses a lot of psi and goes below 5 and sometimes 0. But when at 75mph it sits at 10 psi but hit the throttle it goes down. Could it be the ball and spring stuck slightly? Thinking it is taking a crap on me and was wondering what to buy next another air dog or go with fass or a mechanical pump? Money is not to tight right now but with it being my DD I don't want to be down this winter sitting on the side of the road when it goes out. If mechanical pump would I be able to use the air dog filters down on the frame still?

Boy was I wrong! Was going to change front pinion seal real quick but turns out at least one of the pinion bearings is junk. I don't have the time or the money for this. Plus I gotta work outside in the mud. I hate to have someone else do the work, I could try to find a good used diff. Sure miss my old shop.

hey all,i flushed my engine coolant and changed the thermostat sunday afternoon. before, my truck would take ~3 miles or so before the gauge read above 140. once warm, my needle would stay above 140 but NEVER cross 190. since the flush i can reach 190, often before i'm out of my neighborhood. while driving, the needle bounces either side of 190. i have also noticed that the overflow resiovor has more fluid than when i finished the flush(i keep expecting to put more in). the thermostat was one from the local oreillys(murry brand, i believe). is these normal, or do i still have air in the system? it is a little unsettling to see something different from on a cluster you've …

Ok so Hello everyone.....Yes I am a Newbie. I just bought a 2002 one ton Dodge ram from my company. It has 240k miles on it. Tranny needs some work one of the guys popped a cooler line and drove her dry. I fixed the line and filled her back up and she still rolls down the road just not as strong as she should be. My problem is I know the tank is dirty so the filters get plugged pretty quick which is why she will start to kind of cut out every so often, I try to keep the water drained, but the other day I was rolling home from NC and she chugged a couple of times then she just quit on me. Now this has happened before while the company owned it and I know it was a quick fix…

I'm wondering if there would be any issue with replacing the whole "T" line assembly with 2 barbed banjo fittings (maintaining the stock check valve bolt at the VP44) and 3/8 3 way barbed T fitting and some 3/8 fuel hose. I bent my assembly pretty good when I pulled the head (forgot to unbolt the line bracket at the head when I pulled it), and I think I'm getting air in the system, as it now takes about 15 seconds to start in the morning. This is different from the barely touching the key I had before pulling the head. To replace the whole assembly from Cummins appears to be about $130, and you are still dealing with the crummy hard-line and rubber washer setup.

My fuel pressure line needle valve arrives monday Are you guys just running the needle valve only,,, for you fuel pressure gauge

Well I finally got around to cleaning up my RV275 injectors again... I've always had a random misfire problem with them at idle, only when hot. Finally got bad enough that I couldn't deal with it any more. I yanked them out and stuck in my stock injectors. In the mean time, I went out and bought a digital caliper for the tool box. So I figured I would pull them apart and measure the pintle needle, copper washer thickness, and spring shim.Kind of shocked at a few injectors... [TABLE=align: center][TR][TD]Copper Shim (Inch)[/TD][TD]Pintle thick end (Inch)[/TD][TD]Pintle thin end (Inch)[/TD][TD]Spring Shim (Inch)[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]0.0545[/TD][TD]0.1570[/TD][TD]0.1270[/TD][T…

'01 2500 Buddy bought the truck from our company. He thought it had a leaky pan gasket. It threw down a good puddle last night in the shop. It's coming from the vicinity of the oil line on the vacuum pump where it goes into the block. I replaced the seal in the pump 2 years ago and it doesn't seem to be leaking from there. I didn't have time to put a wrench on it so I'm hoping it's just a loose fitting- but it doesn't look it's coming from the fitting or the hose. You can see a nice clean strip down the block underneath it. Anyone else run into a leak in this area? He just had the head gasket done but it was leaking before …

Check this out gang! http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80602

Have to change my ac condensor .some good ideas

Just had my transmission upgraded at Dynamic Transmission, LLC and wanted to give John a shout out. I was really impressed with his knowledge and expertise. Check out my youtube video on the work.

Gentlemen, I'm not sure how much anyone knows about this subject, so I'll throw it out there and let those who know more about it that me try and educate me. As you know, my 4500 grenaded, but my dad still has one in his 96 CTD. He's having a bit of trouble with 4th gear now and then. It feels like the detent ball in the top of the cover is getting "stuck." Like it's a little bit harder to push in, and there's no noticeable "clunk" when it drops into gear. Just slightly harder until the shifter is all the way down. Does this sound like an issue in the top cover? If it is, we'd like to swap the top cover with the one out of my 4500 and drop my old clutch in the…

I finally got time to change out my leaking(severely that is)tappet cover gasket. I just made a 1600 mile round trip and went thru near 5 quarts of oil. While in the past I have removed every thing form the drivers side of the engine at different time, it was the first time I ever had to remove all of them at once. Pretty much stripped everything on the drives side to gain good access to the block. The only thing I left on was the fuel lines for 3, 4, and 6. Just did not want to mess with the lines at the head. They did get in the way a little but not to bad. It was also the first time I dd the VP by myself. Of everything I dealt with, that worried me the most. It all we…

Was wondering if anyone has enabled the high idle feature in their ecm lately. I know you have to take it to a dealer or find someone with a smarty to get it done. Mainly wondering what a dealer might charge. Thinking I'd like to get this done at some point but a little afraid of what a dealer may charge me. I've been on and off if work lately due to a torn meniscus in my right knee so kinda pinching pennies at the moment.

I was having some lower fuel pressure with my fuel boss: 16 idle and down to 10 full throttle. So I added a couple shims to the return valve and now I'm at 22 idle 17 full throttle. Contemplating taking a shim out, is that pressure too high? Thanks

New to the site here, and I've combed through hours of posts, but wasn't able to find any thread that exactly described what I'm experiencing. I also tried everything suggested in the posts below but still haven't been able to resolve the issues. Truck was stock up until Sept 2020, except for: Straight Piped BHAF FASS 95 Upgrades done since Oct 2020: Built Towing Transmission Quadzilla Adrenaline ARP Head Studs Borg Warner K27 from Power Driven Diesel 7x.0085 Injectors (popped @ 300 bar) Crossover Tubes Issues: Transmission w…