2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Drove the truck it's fine, get in it the next day and the settings won't sync to my phone nor will it load a tune that I've used before. Only had it like 3 weeks and already giving me problems 🤬

problem with my 2002. The ebrake is dragging. The left side is 135-150 and the right side is 235 and as high as 280. I am pulling my hair out over this one, I backed off the adjuster 3 times now and no temp change. I backed off the cable adjuster till I only have about 2 inches of ebrake pedal from the floor. I pushed the arms that the cable is attached to back on the hubs, helping the spring in other words. Go down the road and no change. This is insane, the brake disk on the inside is 109 but when you shoot the ebrake hub its 200 plus, the caliper is 97-109, the hub where the outer bearing is 90 degrees. I take my temp gun and shoot between the rim and the brake disk.

I bought this 2001 dodge ram 2500 quad cab 4 x 4 with a 5.9L Cummins diesel for $500 and I have already put thousands of dollars into it, so I’m glad I didn’t pay more. I received the truck as is, and it would start and idle, but when you push the gas it only has one speed, which is 1400 RPM no matter how much pedal you give it and my odometer is displaying a “no bus”error, however all of my gauges do work. The truck had an adrenaline tuner on it, which I verified with the company that it was bad, so I pulled it all off. I have a compound turbo set up, and they spin and the impellers appear tight and no leaks in the boots. I have 120 hp injectors installed and studded hea…

The base info: 1999 ram 2500 stock turbo 5.9 Cummins. 75 hp injectors, new vp 44, fass pump Quadzilla adrenalin I took off the intake box I found oil around the cold air vane inside the turbo so the questions are should i buy a replacement stock turbo. or should I get an up graded replacement a little bigger turbo what size would work in this configuration

Hey everyone. I'm new to the diesel world and trying to figure out which size injectors to go with. Seems like 150hp + Quad + s382/364 is a popular combo for upgrades. My concern is that I live in Montana and it gets a little chilly here. Would 150hp injectors make for harder starts in the cold winters? I usually plug the pickup in at night, but worry about it not starting if I installed larger injectors.

Anyone know a good way to disable the alarm system? It's going off every time I use the key and then have to use the key FOB and hit lock then unlock to shut it off. I don't want to carry the key fob as I may loose it. I keep it in the door handle for whenever it goes off on me but, now it's all the time and had to disconnect the horn. T.I.A.

A little while ago my truck started act funny. You would get on it and then when you would let of it would "fast lope" idle real rough and eventually clear up. Well yesterday I got on it, it started running rough then died and wouldn't start back. I sat in the middle of the road for about 10min trying to start it before I got mad and used the starter with the truck in gear to pull it out of the way. About 20' of that and it fired right up. Any suggestions on what it might be? Only happens after getting on it.

I dont know why Im having so much problem finding the right seal. I went to napa and they gave me a 22049, I should have known better cause it popped out in 3 miles, to easy to drive in. So I go to Aline and he couldnt find anything for a nv5600, he had a seal for a 5 speed so I put it in and it leaks, I put another one in because I didnt lube the seal thinking running it dry may have caused it. Nope, it leaks too. The original seal was a 33029 and cant find that seal anywhere. I was hoping someone here might have the right number before I pay 10 times to much for it at the dealer. Thanks

Hey all, back again! lol So, I got my DAP 150's in and there seems to be yet another issue. Truck sat for a few weeks and then I got to doing the injectors and changed the oil and filter (had a lot of fuel in the oil). Put 3 gallons in, got the truck started (checked oil level before, was above operating range) and truck drove and ran great with the new injectors. Was getting about 60-70 PSI cold and once she was warm she was at about 40, but then she went to about 35-38 while cruising at 60. At the stop light, It was right above the lower limit line on the dash gauge. Got to my destination ASAP and shut her down. Looked for major leaks or anything and didn't…

So I replaced my airdog150 for the new 4G 165, my only question is why does the return have such a small hole (0.138)? Of course my return dumps into the filler neck and just checking to make sure this will work. Because the system they sent draws through the old sender basket. I have the draw straw drilled at the top of the tank. I think my old 150 electrical plug in is the same so I shouldnt have to replace that, right?

I didn't know how to add to @smokeythedodge thread he has already made so here we go. Please move where needed if required. I figured I could post some helpful part numbers/info along for those looking to replace a (2002) Dana 80 pinion seal and/or pinion yoke. Sometimes obtaining part numbers can be annoying and just plain difficult. I replaced my seal due it starting to leak more as than it had. Started leaking then stopped for awhile and now just started again so I bit the bullet and dove in for repairs. I have a *flanged yoke* aside from @smokeythedodge non-flanged yoke in his thread. I have attached pictures of parts/part numbers and in…

Doing research the past few days and was intrigued by the Xotic studs, mainly bc I think ARP is overpriced. Tried to reach out to Xotic, but they have no live phone support. Used their online chat support and talked to “David” in the Philippines. Asked “David” a few questions which were answered with links to the Xotic website, then asked where the studs were manufactured and David abruptly ended the chat. I was able to track down the parent company and CEO information, but by then I’d made up my mind to buy the proven, and American made ARP’s. Btw, the parent company address on Google earth shows up as a muffler shop at an industrial park in eastern Canada. Xotic might b…

I think I remembered about certain things you when adjusting steering play. Don't bear down hard on the adjustment screw, turn wheel back and forth making very small adjustments each time, raise the front off the ground....... That sort of thing? Thanks for any advice. BTW, My truck knows the way to these kinds of places

What's the normal time to change injectors for those of you who do it all the time? Yesterday I changed injectors, set valve lash, and installed a Vulcan banjo bolt eliminator kit from filter to block mounted pump. Took about nine hours, though had Dirty Jobs and Strange Inheritance on in the background to distract me a few times.

It’s time to replace the VP44 on my 01 HO 6 speed. I’ve been doing a lot of research on different pumps and suppliers. I’m taking the advice of Mopar Man and have decided to go with a DAP remanded pump. my question is are the “Hot Rod” pumps worth the extra coin? I will be upgrading my injections to 7x.010’s from DAP at the same time. I do not have any tuners on the truck.

So I made my first haul with the new to me truck. Pulled over after 15 miles just to look over things and rear end was pretty warm could touch and thats about it. I left my temp gun at the shop so I dont know exactly what the temp was but I was pulling about 17k. Unloaded and got back to shop got heat gun and the pinion bearing area was 150 degrees the lowest part of third member was 138, thats pulling a 8k empty trailer. So I know it was hotter when loaded, lets just say 170, temp was a 60 degree day. Seems a little hot to me. What are you seeing rear end temps at? I replaced the pinion seal and dont know what I torqued it to but I know I looked it up.

It's time to add head studs and I know I'm getting new, stronger valve springs as well. Is there anything else you all would recommend doing at this time as well??

I did the grid heater controller that i think MAYBE @IBMobile wrote up. Have had it switched off since spring. Everything was good. I lost a hydroboost and a gearbox this summer and completely covered everything under my hood in power steering fluid. Now its cold in Loserville ky and and i need the grid. My problem is when i turn my switch on the grid stays on all the time. Never shuts off until i flip the switch. I will admit i have not had the time to put it back to factory stock conditions to see what happens. Scan tool shows nothing. Any help/ideas are really appreciated. Thanks guys.

Anybody know anything about Xotic performance head studs

My plan was to take a screw driver and just collapse one side and pry it out, does anyone see any problem with that? Thanks