2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

My truck is in the shop I was just going to have them replace the pinion seal but then it turned into a possible bad yoke bearing now they say they need to rebuild the entire rear diff which will cost 3388!!!! There is no way I can afford that. Has anyone done this themselves could I take on this project with just a basic home shop? Or does anyone have any advice? Anything is appreciated thanks!

I'm kinda ignorant about programmers/chips. I am not a big fan of HP mods, but definately fuel economy and I want to do the 3 cylinder warm up. I would appreciate more torque while towing up a grade and avoid shifting down into a lower gear.Can we discuss the pro's and con's of various options? Smarty, Edge, etc.. I prefer simple as well. Are there literally chips to install, or is that just a term for reprogramming?

Dunno how many of you know this already, but Stainless Diesel broke 1000 HP on the dyno with a VP44 fuel only. Think they did some adjustments on their second run, and broke 1040 fuel only. I thought that was awesome. Just wanted to share!

First, I have tried two different readers. I bought a cheap actron and it say's "no link". So I borrowed a nicer one from a buddy from work and it says, "can not establish connection, check port connection." It's acting like I have a dead port. Any suggestions? Second, the problem i am having is it's gone dead pedal on me twice now in the last week. The engine just drops right to an idle and the cel comes on. It idles just fine, not rough at all just no pedal. Both times it has only lasted 15 - 20 seconds and come right out of it. The cel stays on for about a day then it goes out. Anyone run onto this before? The dead port I mean, I have read about a thousand threads on …

"Anybody had any trouble with their OD button on the gear shift working intermittently? The problem seems to be a possible dirty switch but I don't want to guess. Ideas? Works both ways, shifting into OD off or on, can't get the thing to go even after several attempts.

Posted this on oilburners, and thought someone here might have a clue. Quote: Originally Posted by fsmyth View Post Me, too. New injector pump, cranks great cold. Homebrew pump system similar to FASS (dual pumps in parallel, dual frame filters). Did NOT have this problem before the VP44 died, tho. Pumps off while cranking, max pressure while cranking - no difference. Finally finished killing the starter Replacing it today. One oddity - I hooked the pump relays back up to the ECM (the wire that used to run the pump on the block, and now that hookup no longer runs the pump after 1st crank (the 3-second thing), but does keep the pumps running for …

Hauled the camper up to the hills last weekend to go huckleberry camping. On tight to not so tight corners i'm getting a huge pulsating grind coming from the rearend of the truck. I have always felt a grind when I'm loaded and turning tightly on asphault or concrete but not near this bad and not with pulsation. This weekend I was on loose gravel and dirt and still got the bad grinding.I just assumed I had posi. because of the grind on dry pavement and in the winter the diff stays locked no matter what. In fact I've come close to wadding the truck up a few times as a result. I also go through rear tires like mad, which I thought was a diesel torque thing. Now the questions…

Have looked thru threads, I need to find the 4 inch hose on the return line from the turbo. I do not want to pay dealer 50.00 soooo where can I find one?

I am wishing to discuss maintenance in regards to replacement of items such as throttle position sensor, etc.. Looking to avoid critical failure due to higher mileage vehicle. I guess what I'm saying is...is there a point where we should consider replacement of systems and parts prior to failure, based on anticipated life? ECM, TPS, injection pump, injectors, etc..

I have some oil leaks in some usual places such as the tappet cover, vacuum pump, and maybe the front cover and /or the front main seal. The other day I noticed some oil coming around from the rear of the engine. I thought it was from the valve cover but upon further inspection it appears that it is coming from between the head and the block. I looked at it with a mirror and can see the joint between the two has a wet oily line. the oil is migrating down and onto the block. About 4 months ago I blew my radiator climbing the mountain and briefly overheated the engine(my fault), could this be a by product of the incident and I almost blew my head gasket or could there be a…

OK, bought the truck with high miles, 300k, and had an oil leak. Fixed the leak, wiring harness coated in oil. Cleaned the major connectors, ECM on the block, and the PCM by the firewall. Still get all of the codes; P0521 P1689 P215 causes P1698 No CCD P0562 alternator P0382 intake heater #2P0380 intake heater #1 P0215 circuit relay P1693 PCU …

I have 1/4 inch line from top of fuel filter and banjo bolt on ip. The gauge from ff reads 10psi the gauge from 1p reads 15 psi. These are mech. gauges is 1/4 line to big for an accurate reading ? THANKS ED

anyone have info on these? are there any kinda easy to install kits? i look online but only see things for the big rigs. i like the idea of this type of filer, not for the extended changes. but for the better filtration. i'll still change around 7500 miles as per the cummins manual for my type of driving. thank you for any info you my provide.

Are the starters for 12v and 24valve Cummins the same?If not, what are the differences?Also, is there any benefit to replacing the stock NipponDenso with a Delco or other brand?TIA<als>

So after reading more about high idle, and 3 cylinder high idle, I kinda got to thinking about what is best for the 53 block.I always let it warm up to operating temp before driving, and if I have to just cruise around the pasture, I'll let it run for a minute, and then I'll start to drive. (1st and 2nd gear, not getting above 1,300-1,400 RPM) If I'm in a hurry, I'll let the temp get to 140*, and then go easy on it.Here in SE Texas, I'll probably never start the truck below 20*F, so what is the best warm up procedure in those temps? Is a rapid warm up better for a 53 block? I know if it idles too long without the coolant temp rising, there can be some damage, but I don't …

My buddies 2002 cummins runs fine up to 20mph then it will lose power. You can put the petal to the floor and after about 10 seconds it will take off. Then it will run fine until you stop and start off again. I does idle good and has no smoke. He has no mods. 78000 miles. …

I just joined the forum back a couple of weeks with the intention of giving back as I've been a lurker for a couple of years. I am preparing for a fuel system upgrade and gauge installation. Here is the list of components I will be installing in the next couple of weeks:DTT Assassin Mechanical Fuel Pump (3/8" lines)Vulcan VP MAX Dual Remote Filter Kit (20um water separator and 3um filter)ISSPRO EV2 Electronic Gauges w/ A-Pillar 3 gauge mount (Pyro, Fuel Pressure, Boost)Block Heater (I know nothing to do with fuel system, but while the truck is down might as well get it done before winter hits)A little background on the motivation for the upgrade. I bought my 2000 back …

Need help! Can't get it bump since I was last poster...Mike, delete this for me when appropriate, please and thank you!

Hey Folks, Just finished installing new set of isspro a pillar gauges last night. I hopped in the truck and started heading down the road. It was night time, my gauges lit up nice adjusted by the dimmer, window was down, couldn't get any better. Until i realized my fuel pressure gauge was only reading 8# at slow cruise and 2# wot. No problem. I suspected that I fouled up the fuel isolater install somehow. So when I got back to the shop I hooked up my handheld gauge and viola! 8# at idle. So this morning I drove to CDA Id. and picked up a new lift pump at alligator diesel. I just finished the install and am getting between 15 and 17 at idle. I am hoping that I caught my la…

Last week i was drivin down a bumpy gravel road when all of a sudden my fuel pressure gauge hits 0 and "quits working" Didnt think a thing about it. Drove home and parked it for 5 days while on vacation. Came back today, started just fine, first crank like always. Drove 20 miles and parked. 3 hours later i try to start it and it cranks for 3-4 seconds before starting perfectly. Trucks idle is slighty bouncing around and having a slight surge every once in a while. What should i check? Sorry im not the most techically gifted. I have a smarty and its set on level 2. Other info in sig what makes this a 911 situation is the amount of travelling i have been do…