2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Okay So I want to swap my auto to manual. I have been looking at the G56 trans in the newer Ram's. But I want to know some input here. What is the best manual to buy, mind you all I plan on doing with this truck is towing and dd basically. Not really gonna be much sled pulls or racing. What are your thoughts, from those who have the manuals?5-Speed or 6-Speed? :think:Also is the swap worth it, I know a few guys on here have swapped. So was it worth the swap? :shrug:I really want to get rid of this POS 47re I'm rocking now. Thanks guys.

I recently bought a scan gauge II. since install I have noticed while idling the reading for the apps sensor will jump from 0% to 10%, + or - a little. It does this very intermittently and only for a split second. I notice no change in the engine rpm just the sensor reading. Anyone else see a similar reading on theirs?

I did not use my apps and im thinking that's why my cruise stopped working. Is there a way to trick the ecm into thinking I still have an apps? Perhaps a resistor stuffed into the apps plug?

So i've been contemplating doing the switch mod for locking my TC. but i have one unanswered question. with the switch in the off position wiill the TC lock on it's on normally? then if i want to lock it then i cna flip the switch? right not mine works great. but there are times when i'd like some engine braking and other geek reasons to be able to manually lock and unlock it. Thank all.

Is it true that our auto transmissions don't reach full cooling capacity until lockup in 4th gear? I have not got my Posi-lock installed yet and I doing a tow with my travel trailer this weekend. So when going up a paved steep road that would normally be in second gear for a few miles. Should I disconnect the vacuum line and run in 2 wheel drive low range in 4th or 5th gear for optimum cooling of transmission? I don't have a Trans temp gauge yet to monitor.

the last two weeks i have been losing power that acts as if i am losing my chip power completely.i have great fuel pressure a new filter. I can throttle up slow and get no fueling smoke or power and then it will kick in and feels normal,boost seems to be normal ,close to 20,but no power. the only change i have made inoperation is adding some two cycle oil to the fuel for lube cause i had a injector that would stop working partly at idle. i have checked the chip connectors and they all seem tight. Could use some help figuring it out.

Hello All, I have been to this site many many times. It is a great site, and the search functions work great. However, now I am in need of help, and the search function did not tell me much. So here is my story.I drive a 99 dodge ram 2500 4x4 with the 5 speed manual. An edge EZ is my only known mod (I bought the truck when it had 250,000 on it), I added fuel pressure and boost gauges (based on opinions from this site). 260,000 miles. I am moving my wife, 10 month old, 2 dogs, and a cat 1900 miles from MT to PA for a job, so I got my trusty dodge loaded up and am hauling a 16 ft flatbed loaded to the gills with all my worldly possessions. I am driving down the …

I decided to have my shop install my rv275's and gould vac pump reseal kit... hoping that I could avoid tearing anything apart myself since this is the busy time of year for work. But now that my fuel and oil leaks are fixed... another oil leak has presented itself behind the motor, I believe from the valve cover. I gave them a brand new gasket from Geno's to install when they did the injectors. I am thinking they must have just not seated the gasket properly as it never leaked there before. Instead of wasting the time (and oil) driving it back to the shop, I want to do this myself. I recently read something about the newer trucks having something interlaced through the g…

Truck is at operating temperature, although what I describe below happens while starting at cold temp. I installed the FRRP-100 last weekend and set the pressure to 19.0-19.5psi at idle. Notice the normal initial 2 sec run at ~21.5 psi. After starting, it runs at ~15.5 psi for 15 sec and then jumps to 16 psi - finally it jumps to 19 psi and the engine sound different. Coincidently the ScanGauge 2 comes on at the same time. Is this a function of Open vs. Closed loop of the VP44? Is this a function of the ECM? Thank you.

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww66/carlhend/7A882EFD-08B1-489E-9841-71DBAB65C14A-1821-00000212176DF118.mp4 http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww66/carlhend/7A882EFD-08B1-489E-9841-71DBAB65C14A-1821-00000212176DF118.mp4 It has done this periodically over the past 3 yrs but it was extremely rare. Only knew because it would flash for a second warning that I was going 100+ mph while clearly not. Now since yesterday it has been pretty bad doing it regularly and even cutting fuel saying I was going 150+ mph while cruising at 60. I have the p1693 code which I need to get looked further into with a reader. Since the weather has warmed up the truck has had a bit of a miss w…

Just trying to take all the steps to keep my vp going strong as I don't know its history as iv only owned the truck little over a month now. So with meter on DC engine running = 13.97 V switch to AC =.03 - .04 according to Mikes vid .1 is the limit ? so im hoping im good to go for a good while its a quik and ez check. with over 300,000 miles im assuming the VP maybe its been replaced but I don't know, it did still have a carter LP but its replaced now with a airdog 100.

Ok i've posted issue's with a off and on "dead Pedal" issue on this forum but i finally found the reason why after a few test run's. After all the test i have disscovered that any time i run my A/C on any setting my pedal goes dead good fuel pressure and so on just a dead pedal till i turn off the A/C. I can't even imagine why those two item's would even be tied together so any idea's why this is happening??? Thank's look forward to your anwser's

I am looking for a new turbo and would appreciate your input. I currently have a hx35/40. I rarely tow, but would like to keep that capability. I really want low smoke, quickish spool, and enough air to keep things cool. I like drivability and don't race. Perhaps, I have too much injector as currently I have the comp dialed back and the smarty as well. I have too much fuel for the turbo I have at present.From my reading and thinking... A 63/68/14 might work well, but I am not sure. Money is always a concern as well... Plus, anybody want a hybrid?

From the time I bought my Cummins the trip, compass, fuel mileage computer that is located between the visors has been a screw up. The compass always has CAL and the direction is always incorrect. I have calibrated it according to the manual and what is posted on Geno's. The Calibration resets has long as the truck is running but always goes back to CAL mode when I restart. My average mileage is stuck on 15.3 but will change when I reset it and give much better readings but again when I turn off the truck and restart it goes back to the original numbers.I am hoping that I will not have to purchase a new one, most are selling for $200 on ebay. Any ideas or suggestions wo…

my work just had got a traded in a 1999 dodge ram 2500 but owner had installed the 3500 heavy duty logos from third generation ram... BUT problem is the owner said that transmission is only work in reverse... I was supposed to do that because I has worked on those before but somehow I was back up of works so the dispatcher gave to the wannable technician to do used car inspection... I told him to look at shifter. he said the shifter was act like out of the position... I told him to pulled the shifter assembly out. there is problem is the transmission are NV4500. AND it is brand new.... new clutch, pressure plate but too stiff!!! I did got the shifter back in the positi…

My ? is my wait to start light does not come on and my lp does not cycle when I bump the starter,i hooked a code scanner up today and it comes back 0 codes and when I turn the truck off there is a clicking noise coming from my speaker about every three seconds with the key off.

I have searched the forums til I am blue in the fingers and I cannot find a diagram for the lock out switch. I know I am terrible at finding the right search terms but man! I thought I saw diagram a while ago with the switch and the included resister? I am not an electronics person, I know it is a 33 ohm resistor but what about the rest of the values? volts? watts? And would you know where I can find a flared section of pipe for the 4" outlet on a Banks brake? Or some other way of adapting the pipe to it? Rick - - - Updated - - - OK, Let me rephrase this. I am looking for the diagram for the manual lock up switch. My original post may have been confu…

Simple question is the original fuel cap vented?

I am on my 3rd fill up with 1oz of Super Tech 2cycle per gallon of fuel. Maybe coincidence! I use to bump the starter and engine immediately fired up. Now it takes 2-3 seconds of cranking. Stock transfer pump installed 36,000 miles now at 98,500 miles. Fuel pressures no load on truck: Idle 14psi, 75mph 10psi, on interstate WOT 8-9psi - this is monitored before the fuel filter. Fuel filter changed 94,000 miles FS19598 Fleetguard. Recent fill up 178 mile trip with 301 mile trip next day and there was a vacuum when removing OEM cap on tank. Even if I bump starter and pressure builds still 2-3 seconds of cranking. Any ideas

I bought a Banks brake used and I need a flanged down pipe. I already have 4" exhaust but it is necked down to match the stock turbo outlet. The Banks brake has a 4" outlet, flanged. They want over 200.00 for the down pipe alone!!!