2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I was wonderin if there was any1 out there who knew a trick for switchin off the automatic door locks. I get so of drivin across the yard n if u hit 10 mile an hour your doors are locked and I'm usually at the passenger door by the time i remember it:banghead:. Mayb its something the dealer has to delete, i just thot they did sumthin with the door lock switch.

How much are these rotors, I am thinking sence I have 270k That I should just go ahead and get some rebuilt ones.

Mike, I saw on Cummins Forum, your/the tire pressure formula. (Axle weight / 2) / Tire Capacity weight ) x Tire Max Pressure = Infation Pressure. So my 'normal formula is: Dual Rating: ((4200 /2) / 3415 x 80 = 49.19 psi Single Rating: ((4200 /2) /3085 x 80 = 54.45 psi My question is do you add the load weight over the axle, ie. pin weight, or w/e weight is on the axle? If not, why? The tires still bare that added weight to the truck. So would the the formula look like this with pin weight of 3000 lbs.? Single Rating: ((4200 + 3000 /2) / 3085 x 80 = 93.35 psi? Dual Rating: ((4200+3000/2) / 3415 x 80 = 84.33 …

Just for sake of information in case anyone's wants to know.....In attempt to reduce the "hot spot" of stagnant coolant and see if I can mildly reduce towing temps, I removed the coolant port plug between the #5 and #6 cylinder, installed a barb and ran a line over to the heater core return line. I haven't had a lot of test time since I just finished it.....and given who overly anal I am, I'm not finished with it either. I set it up by trying to have the new 5/6 line run lower than the original heater inlet line. Cold the two lines are about 1/4" apart but after the engine warms, they just touch. I'm not happy with that. :thumbsdown:On a side note, doing stuff like th…

I have read that it is very easy to replace the rotors on our trucks. The rotor is suppose to just slide on. Mine doesn't, it is held on by the nut and the stud assembly. Any one have any idea as to what the set up is for my rig? Is this from a 1 ton?

I noticed my EGT gauge was pretty whacky today. It was bouncing up and down, and when I floored it it actually decreased in temp. As soon as I started to back off it would increase. Just kinda all over the scale. I am thinking the thermo couple is going bad. Anyone had this happen before?

Hello all. I have just had an oil analysis done. I was hoping one of you-all could have a look and explain it to me. What all the numbers mean? What are the high and low limits of them?[ATTACH]4195[/ATTACH]Thanks again. The mileage is in KM eh!!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some info I've saved over time from TDR Timing the VP44 Fuel Injection Pump

I know alot of folks have temp fluctuation but I think it usually swings low instead of high. I had this trouble a few months ago and fixed it with a new water pump but its back again. I just had the radiator cleaned and rodded but it hardly had anything in it. Its got another new water pump and I have ran two different radiator caps. I have 3 different t-stats and they all fluctuate the same, two are 190 from napa and one is a cummins 180. I generally see swings from 190-203 or so, usually cruising it stays around 190-194 but will jump up to 197-199 for a second then back down. That doesent bother me as im reading those temps from the ultra-gauge and I think those are fi…

Alright, working on the whole "heater core" project and I had to remove some other misc. parts I deemed for removal to get to the relevant parts. One of them being the turbo downpipe to the intercooler. Upon inspection, I found very dark oil residue. It has a sheen to it. Its not heavy, but it covers the inside so much that its black.I'm not sure if this means my turbo is shot, or if the K&N filter that used to be in it was the culprit. I can only think of cleaning the downpipe and driving it for a while and then take a look at it again to see if there is a presence of oil or not to figure out whether or not my turbo needs rebuilt.If I do need to rebuild it, where can…

So, we all know about the he351, s300, etc., for 'replacement/upgrade'.. But I have a friend here locally, that asked me if I'd like to buy his turbo. He was working on a project drift-car, but has not been able to move forward, and now needs a little cash for something.. He's got an Innovative Turbo Systems (ITS) GT72R-DBB (dual BB) Compressor Wheel: Aerospace aluminum material 72mm inducer Turbine Wheel: 713C inconel material 82mm exducer A/R Options: 1.10 T4 divided 4" V band, non-gated Whatcha think (JohnFAK, AH64, etc) and anyone else that would like to chime in…

Aright, I'm trying to diagnose if its my valve cover gasket thats leaking. It may even be an old leak, too. I have some oil staining if you would call it that, that is at the rear. It can only come from the valve cover as it is to high for anything else. I have torqued the cover down and then retorqued after so long. I will double check again to see if it is still indeed leaking.Although, I called O'reilly's, and they sell the gasket for $126! WHHAAATTT!That is out of this world! Where could I get one cheaper?

ok before i break this how does the crankcase vent {the big plastic piece not the hose] come off just twist it which way ? i want to extend the tube after i finish the injectors and adjust the valves also 8- 18 or 10- 20 on the valves?

Boost – Be advised that upon initial start up, you will not register a boost “number.” It takes engine load to make exhaust flow; thus intake boost pressure. You will find the boost pressure will parallel the position of your accelerator pedal. Typical 60 mph, half-throttle boost number is 8 – 10 psi.Rule of thumb: every psi of boost equals 10 horsepower (i.e. 10 psi means you’re using 100 horsepower to motor down the road). Full throttle equals full boost. ‘94 – ‘97 trucks have a maximum boost specification of 15 – 18 psi. The 215 hp, ‘96 – ‘98 trucks have a maximum boost specification of 21 – 23 psi. The ‘98 – ‘02, 24-valve engines have a maximum boost specificat…

Not quite sure what the problem is, but here's what happened. I had cruise set at 75 and everything was fine, tuck ran fine, good oil pressure, plenty of power, no warning lights, etc. All of the sudden there was a clicking sounding type of a knock, for lack of a better description and a lot of bluish smoke I think, it was dark but I could see smoke in the mirrors. It would increase as the RPM's did. I got off the turnpike and called a wrecker. Checked the oil it was full and no puddles or leaks. I had my OBD II scanner with me and it read P0234 with no check engine light. As far as I can tell I think the engine sounds fine but the knock/click is so loud it's difficult to…

Okay, so I gave it some more thought about how I could go about adding a needle valve for my gauge. Instead of going the route of "in-line", I figured, I will just put a valve in on one of the ports thats on the fuel filter canister. Problem is, it seems like it cannot be done? What I mean is, I went to Home Depot and the guy did not have any of the right fittings. :banghead:The fitting for the fuel pressure gauge is an 1/8" Iron pipe thread. He did not have any valves in this style. Nor was he able to get any of the fittings he had to work.Do regular hardware stores have the right kind of needle valve I need or is it special order? Also, he mentioned his valves were a fi…

Alright, so I'm gonna get my A/C evacuated so I can pull the dash and replace the heater core. The problem is, how do I disconnect the A/C lines that go to the evaporator? I thought there was a simple trick to do them and could avoid buying the line disconnect tools, but I do not remember what the trick was. Or is there a trick?

have 01 3500 i have no low end power in any gear cleaned out @ replaced fuel filter

So gents, i am in need of figuring out which clutch to purchase, mainly power wise. My dilemma is i only have a ballpark of the max my truck puts out but i dont want to be way over or way under and end up purchasing a clutch that is insufficient.I want to get a complete kit, clutch and flywheel as i think the original flywheel is garbage.All i have done is rv275's, bhaf, edge juice w/attitude. everything else stock and will stay that way. (truck has plenty of power.I rarely tow, rarely "get on it", dont pull nor race.I cant get an estimate on power as the current clutch slips with ease in setting 1 now, so im stuck.on the power rating they put on clutches, is that off the…

So have a small leak on the passengers side of the block up front near the oil filter and front of the block. That big funny shaped (almost rectangular thing) thats closer to the front of the block than the oil filter or the heater block. Passenger side. How hard to take off and replace gasket - etc ...... - - - Updated - - - Very front of the passanger side of the block (kinda rectangular running up and down) http://roadmasterengineworld.com/images/dodge%20cummins%20engine.jpg Oil filter might bolt onto it ..... haven't checked but close