2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Well, finally got the truck running back normal again and was going to take it out in the countryside to some property I have with a friend about 75 miles away from everything. Got the truck loaded up and ready to go and as the fuel pressure was just a few pounds low recently thought I would adjust it up a bit and did so in the driveway before leaving. It always runs a good 16-17 psi at idle, and down to a low of 12-13 at WOT. Steady running at 14-15 psi which is fine with me. Got on the road and headed out in the boonies early this morning. About 15 miles out noticed that the fuel pressure was down again, sometimes even hitting 10 or less, which then triggere…

Just tried to look at Vulcan Performance's website and its been replaced with a generic one that usually pops up when either the bill for the website has not been paid or a company has gone out of business. Then tried to call their 800 number and "please hold while we try to connect you" followed by "no one is available, please leave a message" ... Anyone know whats going on? 800 991 7996 http://www.VulcanPerformance.com Trying to price new VP44's and looks like they are not going to be on the list...

I have a 2002 Ram 2500 5.9L C code Cummins with the 6 speed and RWD. I have P0112 and P0237 engine lights. Changed both sensors, problems still there. It has limited power past 1200rpm. I checked all the wiring and every wire Ohms out at 0.0 Pins 7 and 11 Ohm out at 65,000 Ohms and I understand it should be less than 100 Ohms so I'm 99.8% sure the ECM is shot. My query is that my ECM P/N is 3947912 but I called Cummins and gave them my VIN# 3B7KC23CX2M202698 and they said the ECM P/N should be 3947412. The wired thing is the ESN for both ECM's are the same 56853373. Im assuming the ECM in the truck is original since the ECM date is 7-21-01 and the truck build date…

I just installed my edge on saturday and now with the tranny temp guage on there i see its runnin very hot. no problem hittin 200 degrees:pant:! I'm pullin around 16000lbs most of the time but it still seems odd it would heat up so quick. i just replaced all my cooler lines and wasn't sure if i coulda started something than:shrug: ? any ideas or whats the first mod i shud do to fix this?

I have read that it would be benifical to use a SO pump instead of the HO pump. Is there any truth to the statement? If so what are the pros of it? I'm probably about to order a new pump so now would be the time swap. Thanks, Kyle

Hi. New here and I'm glad to find you guys. So I recently picked up a 2002 2500 five nine 4x. 112000 miles. Of course it won't start when hot unless I leave key on till pump stops and then bleed the water filter. I have a Tass one fifty that I'm putting in on tues. there is no fuel pressure gauge but I will be putting one on tues. as well. I guess what I'm asking is my vp going to be shot. Or can we not tell without a gauge. I've never owned a diesel and mine seems pretty week feels like some pretty dead pedal. No smoke on cold start.

Alright, so my log splitter uses 5 gallons worth of hydraulic fluid. I have to replace it all before I start splitting more wood again. I sure would hate to let it go to waste and/or pay to get rid of it. I could always throw it in the fire a little bit at a time, but I wonder if I could use it in my fuel?

My grandpa's truck has a faulty oil pressure sensor. Soon as you turn the kew on it shoots up to 75psi. Found the oil presure sensor but dont have the right size socket to remove it. Does anybody know the right size and best place to get a new sensor. I think Geno's will have the best price at $89. His dodge is a 2001 w/cummins of course.

I just heard of using ATF as lube in the fuel. Any thoughts on doing this?

I get an over boost code periodically sometimes accompanied with a cam position sensor code sending truck into limp mode. I can erase codes and may come back the next day or sometimes not come back for a couple of months. It's a 2001 2500 5spd 4wd it has a edge comp box, fass fuel pump, injectors, slightly larger turbo, it has 135k miles on the truck. Any idea where to start?

I have a buddy who will sell me a Superchips d-box for around $100. Are they any good? I don't need a whole bunch more power, just a bit more than stock is fine.

I have a really different one here. Truck has been running fine recently then while driving to work yesterday the problems just began.Had to stop and pick up some things and when I turned the ignition switch off, the engine kept on running. This had happened one time before but about 2 years ago. We re-cycled the ign switch and the engine then stopped.Ok so I had no choice but to put it into 4th gear and let the clutch out. Engine then stopped and I then played with the key and ignition switch and no luck, even in the "off" position the truck had several red lights still on in the instrument panel. Went in, took care of my errands and returned in 10 minutes and the truck …

So after 10 months of no CEL I got a lift pump circuit code(230). I am not using that circuit and the plug has been hanging there for a while now( 10 months). I also noticed that the grids never cycled after I started. The wts light went on for about 2 secs then shut off. The CEL turned on before I even started it, I just turned the key to the "on" position and it illuminated in about 1 second.... Any ideas.... That was the only code. I can clear it and it will come back in no more than 2 start cycles.thanks,Will

Okay awhile back maybe 20,000 miles tops I replaced my alternator and all was good.....Well except 3 random times when the truck just completely shut off beginning with the radio and everything turning off followed by the engine dieing a second later. Everytime it cranked over and started right back up no problems.Now today i lost charge... gauge went all the way down to nothing and the check gauges light came on.After driving home I shut it off and turned it back on... the voltage read around the 12v mark as I believe it should if it is just pulling off the batteries but not charging.I took the alternator off and had it tested... they claimed it was bad and though skepti…

I have all the parts and pieces to install my Raptor and 1/2" fuel line. I will post some pictures as I go along. I am using the stock fuel filter but am also installing a remote fuel filter(Carquest 86353) and water seperator(86439). I have a short box so room is limited under the truck and I am looking at installing the filters and then the fuel pump. Other than when I change filters, possible having air in the system and having to bleed it out, does anyone know of any problem with doing it this way? I can put the fuel pump first, but it will take a little more engineering. Also one advantage I can see is that the fuel will be filtered before the pump, which may h…

While performing regular maintenance on my wife’s truck Ifound that one of the universal joints was shot. It was making some horrible screeching metalto metal noises on the test drive whenever I applied any throttle. Her truck is a 2001.5 long bed that has the 2 piece driveshaft. Since the universal joints and components onthe driveshaft appear to be the original OEM components, I want to replace ALLof the universal joints AND the center bearing. I want to replace the universal joints withSpicer Heavy Duty/High Performance universal joints and a Timken centerbearing. Has anyone done this task recently and if so, I sure wouldappreciate any comments, su…

I just recently put a temperature probe in my trans pan I was wondering what kinda temperatures y'all see.

This post is for a friend who is having a knocking noise coming from mid section of eng. I say mid because it really does not sound like the lower end like you would hear on a gas motor, thats how I am compairing it because thats what I am used to. And never heard a diesel lower end knock just because they are so bullet proof.He was pulling a load up a slite hill and it started missing then blew out black smoke then started knocking so he pulled over and shut it off, towed it in. Still had good oil pressure when he shut it off So we cleaned up a set of old injectors I had and put it back together and the miss is gone but still has knock. This truck is stock but for bhaf …

My trucks shifts good and firm but if im in 3rd and slow down to 10mph or just below it wont downshift to second and sure is a slug taking off again. It will go down to first if I stop completely or 2nd if I all but stop but I would like it to shift to 2nd if I slow down to 10-20 mph. Do I need to adjust the cable or what?

I have a 2001 2500. How can I tell if I have a 53 block?