2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I just recently put a temperature probe in my trans pan I was wondering what kinda temperatures y'all see.

This post is for a friend who is having a knocking noise coming from mid section of eng. I say mid because it really does not sound like the lower end like you would hear on a gas motor, thats how I am compairing it because thats what I am used to. And never heard a diesel lower end knock just because they are so bullet proof.He was pulling a load up a slite hill and it started missing then blew out black smoke then started knocking so he pulled over and shut it off, towed it in. Still had good oil pressure when he shut it off So we cleaned up a set of old injectors I had and put it back together and the miss is gone but still has knock. This truck is stock but for bhaf …

My trucks shifts good and firm but if im in 3rd and slow down to 10mph or just below it wont downshift to second and sure is a slug taking off again. It will go down to first if I stop completely or 2nd if I all but stop but I would like it to shift to 2nd if I slow down to 10-20 mph. Do I need to adjust the cable or what?

I have a 2001 2500. How can I tell if I have a 53 block?

Truck seems to "cut out" at higher power output... The cut out of power is abrupt and harsh, as if the engine just shuts off for a few seconds until I let the throttle down. It also has been taking an extra second or two to start. Any ideas guys? Thanks. Here we go again.

Has anyone had any experience with hydrogen power cells?

I'm sitting on the side of the road waiting for somebody to fold me meantime I'll tell you my symptoms The truck started bucking a few days ago so i shut off my tst and it seemed to help. Now coming home today from work doing 70 on the highway the truck started bucking? Worse when i went up hill. Fuel pressure is good yo the pump engine is not hot, checked the tranny its good. I dont know? Any suggestions? Could the vp be getting weak? No codes either? --- Update to the previous post... we are at the trailer and I drove it home. I don't get it something's wrong though?? It didn't even buck or nothing?? Anybody got any ideas

So I was under the truck looking things over and I noticed that it does not look like these trucks do not have oil coolers? Or is the oil cooler integrated with the radiator for the engine coolant?The automatic has what looks like a heat exchanging system to the coolant and then the fluid goes to a radiator in the front?Are these systems adequate if I'm going to be towing/hauling stuff? I plan on getting a 5th wheel in the future. Probably won't buy anything that grosses over 13k pounds.

For a while now, I have been debating if I should put a TC switch in. I know of the benefits I could get from it, but what about the negative?I want to do the switch because I want to maximize the fuel milage by reducing the fluid coupling of the automatic, and reducing heat.Anyone done it and what to do and not to do with it? At that rpm do you shut it off at? Also, could this be a good way to substitute for being able to use an exhaust brake?

Ok I had this problem before as many cummins owners had were the tc was locking and unlocking. I researched the forums and did the apps reset and aluminum foiled the alt. wires and cleaned all connections I could find well this lasted about 6 months and 7000 miles and now its back. gonna check in to the connections in the morning and see what happens. on 1 of the forums im reading about a 1 wire alternator replacement any ideas for a easier fix? how about these noise suppresors any input if they work or not? Thanks Tom

Cant find the torque on the inj. bodies. I am talking about the torque on the bodies there self. I cleaned and now putting back together.

My tensioner started sqealing like a pig. I plan to replace it but was wondering what the torque is on the bolt and if it had been over-torqued, could that make it squeal? Thanks

I am look for a picture of 2002 map sensors. I bought a comp but I think that its has 2002 map sensor instead of the 2001 that I need.

I "think" I've asked this before, but I can't remember..For about a year now, my truck will have a 'surging' feeling under light/part throttle. This is very noticable as of lately, seems to be getting worse over time. no codes.If I'm in 6th, at 50-60mph, you can really feel it, as well as hear it in the turbo-whistle..If I set the cruise, it stops doing it.This leads me to believe it's the TPS, but I am unsure..I don't want to make a $180-200 guess.

Ive lost some links to stuff whenever i got a new computer here a little while back, needing to know what kind and how much gear oil for my front and rear diffs. I think i used to have a link to a chart or somethings listing the amounts and types of fluid for the whole truck. Dana 60 in the front 80 in the rear. Thanks for the help-Jordan-

A buddy of mine has a 01 SO motor and he started blowing black and started knocking, well he towed it home and to me it does not sound bad enought to be a lower end knock I think its a fuel related knock. I have a set of HO injectors out of my sons truck my question is will they work in a SO? I dont see there would be a diff. :shrug:He just called and told me just installed a Airdog 150 day before yesterday, I dont see any relationship there, the AD install wouldnt have any efect,.

:banghead: Darn it all... I'm wondering if this issue is coinciding with my previous post on the paculiar rattling noise I was having. It seems my pyro gauge is no longer functioning... I dunno if it is the gauge itself or if it is the probe. My money is on it being the probe. I noticed when I got home from the grocery store that the pyro was at 150 degrees. No way I can ever drive light enough to get it that low. Engine idle does not even allow it to be that cool. So, I opened the hood, no apparent signs right off the bat. I had the driver door open and hood up. Cranked the engine, made a funny noise. Let it run for a second, to see if the inoperable gauge is just a fluk…

So I installed the Raptor FRRP 2 days ago and installed the BHAF today I love the turbo whistle. I built my own tapped banjo bolt but all my fuel psi gauges only go to 15 psi and this pump pegged them to the 6 O'clock postion with the engine not running. Man I have learned alot of stuff on here already. Tomorrow I'm cutting out the convertor and muffler and straight piping it with 3" (for now anyways). I bought a new single billet convertor from a local convertor builder. I also picked up a new input seal and a filter kit and 13 liters of ATF+4. When I have the trans out I want to adjust the bands and clean out the solonoids (or a least the governor solonoid) Does a…

I've gotten this code recently on my 2001 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 with the Cummins 5.9l diesel. At first I thought it was the APPS as I was getting the dreaded dead pedal syndrome with no other symptoms, but it has progressed to having a little chugging or missing at highway speed under heavy load. Mostly I get a completely dead pedal when first starting out and cold, but then it will usually clear and begin running fine. I've confirmed the APPS is fine with an analog voltmeter hooked up while I am driving; the voltage change is smooth and continuous even when I am not getting any actual throttle response. I've also confirmed the lift pump is fine by hooking up a pressure gaug…

Sometimes when I let off the accelerator in my truck kinda quick I hear a chatter noise kinda like at the truck pull when they end there run. I had somebody else in the truck and they heard it and told me that my turbo was spinning backwards and that it is really hard on turbos. They told me my waste gate wasn't opening quickly enough. The higher the level of the programmer is the more frequent it happens. Do I need to fix the factory one or buy a new one like the one from Banks.