2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

About 2 weeks ago I had the apps replace with a timbo sensor (previuosly I had made adjustment to my original apps 4 months ago) because it was showing trouble when shifting betwen 2nd a nd 3rd gear and also prensented the dead pedal symtom while i was driving on the freeway 65mph and when i release the pedal power was back. Any way after i replace the timbo sensor i drive over 1200 w/out any issue at all. suddenly today i was driving on the freeway 65 mhp and felt the loss of power, but my tachometer remain still @1900 rpms, so step on the gas and got power back release it to maintain 65 mph and symptom appear again then went gone. Also I notice trany again is having ha…

I tried unplugging my Boost sensor (map sensor) after reading it would make for some good smoke. I was going to do a smoke switch but figured I would try that to see if it did anything before putting in the switch and having not work. I figured if I set a code I would just clean it out with my Hypertech Hyperpac. Truck ran bad and set a code. I scanned and found 2 codes. The first was low/no boost signal (duh!) and 1693. I found that one means it set a code in both PCM and ECM. I cleared the first code but the 1693 keeps showing up. So now I found out my programmer doesn't clear the PCM. I key on/key off and find codes 0500 and 1694, I don't know how long those codes have…

Hello to everyone.I am new here but have had Cummins power for a long time. I have a 2001 Ram H.O. 3500 Quad Cab 4x4. I have done some power upgrades including air intake,5" straight pipe exhaust,Fass 150 gph, Hypertech programer and disabled waste gate. It runs good but I have some questions I hope you guys can answer. Thanks

I tried looking on the internet for someone closer. A lot of the "name" diesel shops (as in people we've heard of before) do not advertize where they are!! All other things being equal... it might be cheaper & faster to buy from a closer location. Heck, I might even go see them! I don't know any performance diesel in my area... I think I saw Blue Chip was in NH.

Ok fellas I need some help again!!!:banghead::banghead::banghead: Driving my ole truck down the road, an she started acting funny! So I started watching the gauges and everything is running ok, except the apps. The apps will be maintaining about 25% and then it will drop to 0% , and then it will pick back up an take off like nothing was ever wrong! There is no check engine light and no codes. With the engine off I can pust the pedal and it will build from 0-100 slowly or all at once! Could the tps or apps be going out on me?

Anybody running one? Are they worth it?

My 01 spuddered today for the first time. Here are the codes I read 0500, 1693,0234 and 0522. the last 2 didn't show untill the 2nd cycle when it goes thru the code thing. Now what do I do? I'm j-hooked with a turnbuckle. 4" turbo back and torque dog. Towing 6500# with the dog set in the stock position. Any help would be appriciated greatly since I'm out of town working. --- Update to the previous post... I forgot to add. Never got a cel and it seems to be running ok now. Going to remove the turnbuckle when she cools down. Also forgot to thank mopar man for all his advise, info and help the other day on the phone. Thanks dude!!!

Wasn't RUNNING that is. We were on our way to drop the truck off to get the heat/AC fixed. I'd already driven 25 miles... I was going 35-40 when suddenly I lost the power steering... cause the engine had shut off. I pulled off the road into the only space available. I still had 1/4 tank of fuel... old fuel been in since Sept/Oct. I've only been driving enough to keep the brakes from freezing. The engine turns over nicely. No run. I did the key thing. PCU -------- ECM -------- The mice had built a nest in the air cleaner (which I'd recently cleaned out)... mostly insulation material from the firewall. (Hood insulation removed long ago.) My buddy …

I bought my truck 6 months ago with only 47,000 miles on it. It had sat for almost 4 years with a dead VP44. Before even starting or cranking the engine I changed the oil and filter. After running it for about 2,000 miles I started getting a very bad odor in the cab when I would stop at a stoplight or stop sign. Finally tracked the smell down to the engine oil. Starts getting that horrible stench around 2,000 miles or so. Any ideas on what it possibly is? Planning on getting oil analysis done as soon as I can get the trans problem taken care of and start driving it again.

hi guys i am fairly new to the site and i want to thank you all for the tons of imfo that is posted on this site . It's fun to read and learn how to fix any problems one may come across without having to pay the big buck to take the truck to a shop,so keep up the good work and thanks to Mopar Man for making this site available.Thanks again KevinOk now i have a problem.I can drive the truck all day with out any problem but if i pull into a parking lot or go through a drive through and have to stop an wait for the line up to move this is where it starts.As i let the my foot off of the brake and let the truck move forward at an idle it will make a thump and roll a bit and th…

I'm not getting any indication on the instrument cluster that the 4 wheel drive is engaged but everything works fine,where is the indicator switch

What all is involved and what would a person be looking at cost wise?

I just found out about the "53 block" and I have one. Does anyone know what the odds are that it will crack? It has 180,000 miles now and the person who had it before me used it to pull fifth wheel and goose neck trailers. It seems to have been well taken care of and is still fine. Should I be worried?

It is time for some new brake pads for the front of the truck, I am thinking ebc or performance friction might do the trick, anyone with recommendations? Rotors are stock with no damage and as usual I plan to turn them unless someone out there recommends otherwise. Thanks all,Chris

I had the impression (obiviously erroneous) that mice didn't like diesel intakes. WRONG!! I've been holding off the BHAF install, waiting until the AC & heater repair gets done, so rather than the BHAF get bunged up by the shop (cracked the cover the last time... never told me... I did a super-glue repair). So the first shop didn't even start the job, so I brought the truck home & made an appointment elsewhere. For some reason I decided to pull the stock air box & at least start the BHAF install. Like it says in the title, the stock airbox was full of trashed sound-deadening insulation. I'd already removed & thrown away the under hood blanket …

Hi, just joined the forum and this is my first tread.A week ago replaced my vp44 and upgraded lift pump to airdog2-165, did everything myself and truck started right after bleeding. I've been driving the truck since i got it back running and have noticed that the truck now takes longer to start. I've been searching the internet and haven't found an aswer to my problem, finally found this forum and any help would be appreciated.

Finally got everything buttoned up tonight and fired it up, only to notice a small, but steady stream of ATF coming out near the front of the trans. Further tracing of the leak found a hole worn through the hard line that runs from the heat exchanger up to the trans cooler. So, I cut that worn section out and fitted a section of hose and clamps in place to hold over til I get the new lines ordered. Anyway, after that drain-and-refill exercise, we took it off the jacks and loaded tools and such in the bed, and headed home. About 2 miles in (and this is in 4am traffic, mind you, i.e., non-existant) with some basic testing of functionality like downshifts, WOT 1-2 and 2-3, …

Ok so its really a electrical because the tranny shop drove it with a scan tool and said the voltage is jumping around from 14.8 to 11.1 at the apps sensor causing lock and unlock he said tranny is fine check the regulator so had a load test done every thing is good so how do you do a apps relearn another guy want to add a wire to fix it saying changing the apps wont fix it but it worked fine the last 12 years I don't want to do that thanks in advance

Had a funny idle this morning. I have a 2.2k ohm resistor in my iat sensor but I dont see how it would have anything to do with it. Cranked up and drove to work this morning and all was fine. Got in my truck a couple hours later to go to my next store and truck cranked up and idled fine a few seconds then it idled to about 950 or so then back down to 800. It did this on and off for a minute until I put it in drive. Then got to my next store and it was doing the same thing when I parked, it would idle like this for 3-5 seconds high then 3-5 seconds low. I reset the apps and then came back out in a few hours and the truck was doing the same thing. Next store I reset the app…

I was on my way to church this morning and my speedometer started acting up going to like 127 mph for a few seconds at a time. That is all it was doing. I went to leave church and head to the shop and more problems... As soon as I turned the key on the speedometer instantly pegged out again. The truck started fine and when I went to leave its like the convertor was stuck in lockup and the tranny is in high gear.I can put the shifter down into 1 or 2 and the tranny will shift into those gears but the speedometer remains pegged out and anytime the speedometer is pegged out and you put the shifter in D the tranny stays in high gear. I'm thinking possibly the VSS on the rear …