2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hello Everyone! I am new to the cummins motor so bear with me! I purchased a 2002 dodge 2500 with 80 k on it three months ago and now its time to upgrade.... I have purchased a Airdog 100 fuel pump and Quadzilla XZT+ programmer.... Now with being new to the cummins motor I am unfamiliar with the location of the map senor and data link... If anyone could point me in the right direction i would certainly appreciate any help!

Anybody got any fan wrenches I could borrow?

I'm getting ready to channge my wheel bearings and front axle u joints. What size socket is the front axle nut?Any other pointers for doing this job would also be appreciated. Thanks

2000 dodge ram 5.9 cummins, manual trans, stock except the air cleaner. Starts and runs fine 99.9% of the time and then 4 times in the last couple months it cranks but will not start. Put the tow rope on it in third gear let out clutch fires right up and runs good. I put new batteries,new ign.switch. There are no codes. You don't know when it will do it again until it happens. The fuel pressure is 10 to12 psi. It started this since it got cold this winter. I live in AK. Any ideas. Thanks 3 of the times the engine was farely cold once the truck was hot shut off for fifteen minutes and come back wouldn't start. Thanks

Truck started not only hard, but funny,(like having to crack 3 injector lines),but would'nt catch after lines were closed. Checked codes,P0602 came up,cleared,no problem since.What could have caused this?:banghead:

I went to the codes section but these are not listed over there 0628 0529 0541 0483 I was just told that all this # start with a P so I guess they are pcm codes

Time to replace all of my battery cables. So my question is where is the best place to buy new battery cables? If I can find someone around here that makes cables what is a good size of cable to replace mine with? I dont like replacement ends so I want all new cables. Thank you in advance.

It's using a quart about every 40 miles right now. The whole underside of the truck is oiled and when I'm stopped I can see dripping around the inspection cover. I'm thinking pump seal. Is there something more common that I'm overlooking? The other kicker is that I can't fix it til I get home, and that won't be for like 12 days. I'm also going to be towing my 34' 13,000 pound 5th wheel home... Another question: at the rate it's burning through fluid, can I just dump cheaper DexIII/Merc in there? I'm going to be putting in a new converter when I get back, and doing a full fluid change.

I was given an 02 QC 2wd. It sat under a carport for 2 yrs due to the young man that it was given to not having any interest in it. We pressurized the fuel tank and got fuel up to the VP44. I cracked the return line and ran the pump until fuel ran out of it. Then I cracked the 1, 3&4 injectors. With two hot batteries she turns over with authority, but no fuel reaches the injectors. I am used to working on 12v engines, and know little about diagnosing the Vp44. Could the electronics be bad in the IP? The truck was running fine when it was parked. Thanks in advance for your help!Chris

I was bring it home and the only way I had was to lay it on the passanger side on tires. Now I have oil everywhere in the trailer. I know it is leaking from the oil filter because I can see it's coming from the top where the seal is. At first I thought oh crap it's leaking passed rings and coming out the exhaust, but I started thinking its going to be on its side all night. So you think it will leak passed, because I am thinking if it does I am going to need to pull injectors and blow out each cylinder.

I got a guy that has been in touch with me by email and been trying to figure out his CCD Bus problems. So far nothing I suggested works. Currently he can see the 2.5 and 2.4 vold bias voltage at the OBDII port he's only got the ECM and PCM plugged in to the bus all other modules (Radio, ABS, AirBag, etc.) are unplugged to try and isolate the problem. But still it will not communicate... The engine will start and run... Tachometer functions but all other gauges are dead. No AirBag or ABS lights... But unable to read error codes at all. I'm hoping one of you might have an idea...

99 Dodge 24 valve. Had the lift pump changed to teh tank about 5 years ago. Threw a Injection pump code and intermittant flat pedal and put in a new injection pump just before Christmas...HoHoHo. The code returned along with the flat pedal and the shop says my fuel is antifreeze green and my level is down in the radiator. Apparently the fuel return goes throguh the head and there it is picking up antifreeze? I have had this truck 7 years, bought it used. I am meticulous about watching the temp, and have never over heated it, and do not over rev it. Now I apparently need a new head? Only 125,000 miles. Ever hear of such a thing? Any options out there? Color me f…

Well I learned a valuable lesson between yesterday and today! when you need a battery replace them both becasue the other will be shortly behind!:banghead: With another cold snap and snow my truck leaves me at work catching a ride with a friend of mine. You must remember this is my first diesel so this winter has been trying for me and this truck!:banghead::banghead: sorry for the rant just been a trying week.

Starting this for a discussion as well as for FYI for those interested Discussion thead here http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance-parts-discussion/344262-mighty-diesel-cylender-head-bolts-anything-good-bout-em.html product here http://www.mightydiesel.com/store/index.php?cPath=108 Speculation here Tony from Mighty Diesel is using their Houdini headbolts, (12mm) running about 60PSI boost.. a small S400 running about 575HP on a marine headgasket (.020" over stock thk) and those bolts.. no O-rings. And he's been pulling in the 2.6 class like that for a while. He claimed a customer has run their bolts at 100PSI boost (70PSI…

I dont mean to high jack but am I understanding it right when you say dont let it idle long? You say go ahead and start lightly driving to keep build up from forming? And is this build up in the form of fuel in crank case?

Will the apps off a auto work on a standard? And are the injectors out of a auto the same as in a standard? Both are 01 SO motors.

i have o2 3500 47re was working great no problems was hooking to my trailer, looked and need to move just a little, pulled up, and then it would not shift back to revears. binds up shifter, idicator came back to drive but no farther, i unhooked sheft lever at transmission, shifter went freely back to park so i could turn key off, at first i could shift low second and drive by hand at the trans. that is as far as it would go. after i shifted it a couple of times. and tryed a little harder to see if it would jump past whatever was holding, it,. now lever moves freely, anyone know what i might find when i drop the pan, is their any common shift parts that fail inside, any he…

I plugged in the truck yesterday for the first time. water temperature was at 68 degrees. Does this sound about right for a truck that's been plugged in for a few hours? --- Update to the previous post... Sorry, 48 degrees. Not 68.

I thought I would start here with the questions of pulling eng. I have heard of raising cab to get it out. Are there any good write ups on the subject?

Should I change to BHAF? I just read a post that said K&N were junk. I bought the truck with it on there. Not a puller or racer just use it for work. I do pull loads ,GCVW about 35000. Just put fuel press. gauge on so empty I have 16#, and WOT better than 14#. Am looking to put more gauges on. I did go across the scale today with a load of wood that weighted GCVW 42100#, that was my truck & trailer. Hauled it down the road pretty good never cut the edge on and was up to 55 in about a mile. I M INPRESSED.