2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

With all of the talk about alternating current causing electrical damage has anyone researched or tried to purchase the diodes for the alternator and rebuild it themselves?

Morning All, I finial bit the bullet and picked up a gauge kit (trans, boost and pyro) and other goodies from http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ most of its straight forward, but i have a question about drilling the manifold for the pyro, who has drilled and tapped the hole with out removing the turbo? also, is there a standard paint number for matching the gray trim? thanks (truck is a 99 2500 auto)

Well, the Cardone unit I put in 18 months ago is leaking like a sieve. The output shaft is loose. I noticed it was pretty wet when dismantling the front end last week. After disconnecting the pitman arm link, I can wiggle the shaft about 1/4 inch, and fluid is pouring out. Anyone recommend a GOOD rebuilder? In the Rockauto site, the "Lares Corp" unit has a little 'heart', meaning it's popular. (cheapest too) Should I try that one? They offer ATSCO, Cardone, ACdelco, and Mopar rebuilt.

Pulling the trigger this week on my transmission build. I've been looking at valve bodies, and was wondering what the difference if any there is between ATS and BD? Also looking at rebuild kits, and looking for suggestions. I'm picking up a used 47re for the valve body core exchange and to build then swap to decrease truck down time, and while its on the bench figured I'd go through it so I know whats going back into the truck. Plan for the truck is right around 475 horse. Other parts I'm considering are a Mag Hytech tranny pan, ATS input shaft, and BD low stall torque converter. I only want to do this once. I'm open to suggestions.

Ive done dozens of them but decided to buy the gould kit to have the tooling and it actually comes with two seal kits. I actually learned a couple tricks from the dvd that i didnt know before. Any oil resistant rtv will work. Ive used grey, black, red and blue. Never had any leak

Hello ladies and gents!! Hope everyone is ready for Christmas and New years and everything is going well for everyone. Now, on to the problem. My brother has recently purchased a very clean 2002 Ram 2500 CTD. It is a five speed and completely bone stock from bumper to bumper. He is going through the motions of basic bullet-proofing (Gauges, Lift Pump, Etc.) I talked him into getting an Assassin mechanical lift pump because that is what I will probably end up getting if and when my Raptor gives up. He also went with the beans diesel sump at my suggestion versus the draw straw. My father and brother are working at installing the entire system this weekend and ju…

For all the years I owned my 2001 2500 cummins I taught I had a 47re but our tranny specialist at home told me they're all 48re in 2001?

Hi everyone. I just installed a Pureflow FRRP-100 on my 01 Dodge 2500. It works great so far. My question is my kit didn't come with a relay for the pump. The instructions say to plug it into the factory harness. I would like your opinion, should I install a relay or will it be ok?

Hey guys, Just messing around on the computer this afternoon and found something I hadn't seen on this forum, though I've seen this truck on here, and have also seen Mike reference it a few times, but I came across a video of it here: From what I've read this truck was hit and totaled? Still pretty cool to see it in the flesh. AP

anybody ever see or have these installed? http://www.ebay.com/itm/271635496536?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true Gearing up (ha ha) to start the freshening of my nv5600 for the project truck... and stumbled across these heavier than oem springs for the synchronizer rings. Supposed to make the rings more aggressive at speeding up or slowing down the required gear for engagement. Seems like when you 'add' pressure in a certain spot, problems could surface elsewhere.. I think this would be good for the speed shifting crowd, and when shifted 'normally'.. could help add life to these very expensive rings..

I found a used edge comp box for my 99 24 valve for really cheap but it doesn't have the wiring harness has anyone made their own or know how to?

Thinking about removing my Turbo to have it tested. Where would I take it for testing and is there a way to test without removing it from Manifold? Thank's, Kerley

Do you need to disconnect the rear driveline? Or can you just put the transfere case and auto trans in neutral and be on your way? Thank you

Install some DAP 7x.009 injectors. Everything went smooth and took my time checking everything. Tightened everything to spec's. Bled the system after installing and she cranked right up. Nothing leaks but now after sitting over night I have to crank on it a good minute or so to get it started. Before I couldn't hardly get my hand on the key and it would be running. At first I thought it may be some air in the system still seeking higher ground but after a couple weeks Im starting to wonder if maybe it's something else. I cleaned everything good and also put new orings on the crossovers. Any ideas on what else I should look for. Also have fass lift pump 17 at idle and…

I just swapped out my good non-slipping 99 4x4 47re trans and installed a brand new South Bend clutch/flywheel kit, rebuilt NV4500 trans, and changed the input shaft on my 241DLD t-case. My friend entered my VIN into the PCM so there would not be any VIN mismatch codes thrown. I swapped out my auto PCM with a 99 Dodge Cummins 5 speed PCM, connected the two outer wires from the auto trans NSS to the nv4500 reverse lights switch, ran the black/white tracer center wire up to the CSS, and then grounded the 2nd wire on the CSS to the left side under the dash where there is a common ground point. I'm still using the factory auto instrument cluster and the auto trans PCM wirin…

I have a lift pump issue I am chasing. Now before you tell me Raptor is junk, get a FASS I switched to my spare pump today and still the same symptoms so I'm ruling the pump out for now. Most of the time when cold I'll key on, hear the 1sec pump run and away we go as normal. Pump always holds 18 psi once it's running. When the truck is warmed up and I shut it off for a few mins. and go to restart, most of the time I hear a clunk, clunk, clunk from the LP. After that sometimes it will run and sometimes not. I usually bump the starter until it does run and then start. Once running it never shuts off and hold good pressure. What makes it hard to diagnose is that it does not …

Easiest way to explain is when i am down shifting into 3rd 2nd and 1st it sounds like its winding down, matching the rpms (as it slows, the sound slows). It does not do it in 5th and 4th and started not to long ago. any ideas of where to even start looking? thanks for any help, i am sure more info will be needed so just ask away

I have a leak and loosing power steering fluid. I changed the pump, but I'm leaking fluid frowim the hydraboost near the vacuum brake booster. Is this an O-ring I can replace or does this mean a re built hydraboost unit from NAPA? I also have no vacuum for switching the defrost and vent, is this related? Thanks for any suggestions

Hi All, have not been on the site for a while. To many other things in life going on. Had to go reset my password to get back on. So I have a quick question for you all. In the last week my truck 1998.5 24V has been acting up. After it sits overnight, go out in the morning to cold start it, it will fire right up, run for 10-15 seconds and then die, like it ran out of fuel. Then it is a real bear to restart. It acts like it's out of fuel, or losing prime. It only does this the 1st cold start of the day, the rest of the time you shut it off and restart it throughout the day, it fires right off and runs great!! My driveway is level or flat, no steep inclines ar…

This morning I drove the truck to take my son to school and then run a few errands. Transmission shifted normally, truck ran fine, nothing out of the ordinary. This evening I went to pick him up from school and once I hit the road it wouldn't shift out of second gear, not even manually. I get to the school, check fluid, its full and was just changed in October when I installed the new torque converter. I shut the truck off, started it back up, and it shifted fine for about a half mile then it started hanging in second again. I pulled up to a stop light and it started jerking and bucking, so I threw it in neutral. I made it to my driveway in second gear then trying to get …