2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

It was time to fix some of my minor boost leaks and whistling sounds coming from the old manifold gaskets. So since Lindy wasn't busy and the gasket where their at work why not? So I got a nice dry spot to work inside and all the tools I could ever want. So I will tell you that you want to remove all the injector lines. The fuel filter has to come off (if you still have the stock fuel filter). APPS sensor has to be removed and the intake horn and grid heater of course. Take a nice sharp puddy knife and start scrapping off the old gasket. It will be baked on so take your time. Then once cleaned up I put a very fine layer of black silicone on both sides o…

I went snowmobiling the other day and now have popping going on inside my front end when in 4wd and there is pressure on the drivetrain. I believe it is the CAD as I have already jacked up both sides, checked all 5 U joints and turned the driveshaft (Pinion feels tight and driveshaft turns with ease). All U joints look good and have no slop in them. The transfer case has very little slop as well. The only thing left is the CAD. I think the diaphragm inside the actuator has gone bad because I can suck on the side that pulls the CAD over onto the disconnected side and it holds the vacuum. If I suck on the other line, it does not hold vacuum. Is there anything else I'm missi…

What Thermostat temp is best for Dodge Ram/24v Cummins? Just wondering if I would get better fuel mileage with the 190* thermostat. What temp do you have and mileage. Thanks, Kerley

I been reading so much my head is about to explode. I went to Thoroughbred Diesel and looked around and still don't know anymore now than when I was reading here. So when my airdog dies, get a fass or not.

So guys, I developed lock up issues Friday morning. My truck was going subtle in and out. Ironically at the exact same time my trans developed shifting issues. Currently it is holding 1st gear to 2,500 rpm, and shifting between 45-55, and I also have the unlock and lock up problems as well. I traced an issues with a loose positive battery terminal and the grid heaters. Today I tested my vac, and I had .027-.033 at the batteries. And .04-.065 with the grids during away. After fixing the terminal using threaded rod and some nuts, the grid heater drop is now 12.15v instead of 10.15v. However, after the repair my alternator now is pushing .09 and the ba…

I just changed out a factory lift pump on a 2001 Cummins to a FASS DDRP. Everything installed tighter, also added a sediment filter in line before the pump. Cycled pressure through and started the truck right now. It goes Immediately to 2500rpms and holds there. Good news is it is showing good pressure at that high rpm, but it is NOT coming down. is there a reset that needs to be performed, or did something get bumped during install? Vehicle is equiped with an Edge JWA tuner. No other mods that i can tell from sight. Thanks!

Anyone heard of DFI (Ducky Fuel Injection) out of Arkansas? They have some 100 hp SAC injectors that i'm interested in trying. I have DAP 60s now and they're good, but I wan't a little more and would like to see how SAC injectors will do power and economy wise. DAPs smallest SAC is 125 hp, which might be hot for my current turbo, and my turbo upgrade is going to have to wait till next year, but injectors are budget friendly this fall!

I ran my truck out of fuel yesterday on my way to work. I know how stupid this is but I thought I had enough to make it and I didn't have time to stop. I've tried since yesterday evening to get this thing started back but it just won't do it. I can get fuel to the VP and prime the FASS but as soon as I tighten the nut back up on the VP and try to start the truck, I lose prime with the FASS. Also, I am getting fuel at the injectors but still no fire because I lose prime to fast. I even tried leaving the but on the VP loose while I cranked and still no fire. I have been having problems that I thought might been VP related but want sure. Could it be that the VP is done for…

So i unplugged it and now I have temp gauge again now I need to clear the codes. I think there is something wrong with the switch.

Truck is an '00 2wd auto with 229k, I just drove it this afternoon to go pick up a replacement water pump because I noticed water leaking out the pee hole this morning. Got home, shut it off, and let it cool for a while, then pulled the old WP off and used the water hose to flush the radiator and the block. Got everything buttoned back up, put the belt on, filled it up and hit the key, and it turned part of a revolution then stopped. Hit the key again, and the same thing happened, but this time the check gages light/tone came on, because one of my batteries is weak and it doesn't like cold cranking. So before I drag the jump box out, I think to check if the water pump i…

I should be hopping on the dyno this weekend (As long as my brother doesn't blow up his 05 first) Couple of questions: Anyone have any thoughts on which level for a smarty only run? Any thoughts on which level for a smarty + TST run? And for the fun part! Guessing Give your guess for: Smarty only and smarty + TST My sig is up to date!

I'm planning on some 75hp or 100hp injectors for the future. Are there any upgrades for the HX35 that will make a difference or should I plan on replacing the turbo as well?

Ok guys. I know this one has been hit before but I am having a hard time finding the old threads on it. My question is this. What fluid should I use? Is a new gasket required when putting the cover back on? Do I need any additive do go with the fluid? I dont believe I have limited slip. One tire will spin freely on slick surfaces anyway. This is on my 01 ram 2500. Dana 80 rear end with 3.55's. Thanks for any tips!!

Last night, was driving around doing errands and suddenly a voice told me look at your fuel pressure. Pressure was at 12psi and kept an eye on it. Would stay steady at this pressure driving around but was ready to shut her down If needed. Guess the filter replacement didn't Fox my problem. Got home waited to clear the ecu and bump stated it. Pump sounded like it was dying! Guess I'm going to be calling airdog in the morning for a replacement! Shoot, first one went 9 months, this time almost 3 years...

My county currently does not require emission testing for renewals each year. But they are talking about it now. Should I be worried or has anyone had problems with the test.

Anyone running one of these?

I have a Fass ddrp 95 thats three years old and I know low pressure is a sign the lift pump is failing. What are other signs? Mine in the last three months has not come on upon start up 4 times and stopped once just after pulling onto street. I have turn it off and on a couple times to it to go. Filters are 2 -3 months old pressure is down a couple psi but it usually is in the winter when it is cold.

What's the skinny on BC? yea, nay?

Yeah I got a a weird one. I had a truck come to the shop with a dead injection pump (P1688 and P1689). It got a new Injection pump and lift pump from Vulcan Performance. After getting it running the WAIT TO START light is stuck ON even while driving. The grid heater are cycling as normal and canceling out either by time or by speed. I've done my AC noise check on the alternator and it was .260 at the highest. So the alternator was replaced and the new one is floating about .040 which is OK. But still got a stuck WAIT TO START. I check all the wiring for loose connection or pinched wires. I even call a local computer expert and they are stumped.

I have an appointment at the Dodge Dealership Saturday to get the high idle feature enabled. They said it will cost 55.00. The sound about right to you guys?