2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Which one is the best for a good mpg and not to much for destroying my auto transmission

hey guys looking for injection line for number 1 cylinder from injection pump to head just had one rupture broke down on the side of the road I 95 toll road approximately 2 miles north of exit 7 in Maine is anybody anywhere remotely close that might have a source for that injection line please call me ASAP directly my cell number is 541 232 9958

Hey, I have a question and want to make sure i am not over thinking this, I did the conversion a few weeks ago when my regulator in the ECM decided to go crazy and cook my alternator i did the conversion that in the tech article but did come changes because it tried to overcharge (bad reference voltage sampling point) with that fixed, I am now getting 14.4 with a high of 14.5 and a low of 14.3 so here is my question and concern, from what i understand, the ecm would cut the alternator when the grids would cycle. this conversion does not allow this provision. now i do have a circuit designed that will cut the alternator when the grids are energized. currently …

truck died on the way to church. Originally had P0236 p0177 p1693 p0602 p0500. However These are all pretty standard for me with the smarty, no fuel canister, and having just spun the tires with the new turbo. I cleared the codes and no other codes came up after trying to crank again. Kinda odd to get a no code die and no start... but I'm thinking the vp44 randomly decided to die. Any thoughts?

I will be on the road for the next couple weeks and will be parking my truck in some undesirable spots and wanted some ideas as how to disable my truck so if someone was to get in it and broke the ignition they could not start it. I did try pulling the AOD relay but it still started but had no dash power. Is there any other relay or fuse that I could pull quick and easy even under the hood that will keep it from starting that would not be so obvious that a thief would notice. This is a emergency trip and I may not be able to respond but I will be able to read what was posted so don't be offended if you don't hear from me. Thank you ahead of time for any new ideas. Bob

I bought my truck with some unknown "140 hp" injectors. I've always run hot (400f idle) and attributed it to cheap 5 hole tips. As it turns out, the truck ran amazingly well for not having a crush washer under the no. 4 jnjector! I bought a turbo and injector set and these new injectors mademail a new truck out of it. Turbo should go in this next weekend. Moral of the story? Injectors are still easy to install, and still make a world of difference. If I ever pick up another truck I am changing the injectors or having themy pop tested immediately.

I have a 1999 cummins. Once the engine has already been warmed up if I go to start it sometimes it starts a very lopey idle, which stumbles on for a few seconds and then dies. I was showing a bad tps error code. I have replaced that and no longer have the check engine light on. My wait to start light sometimes takes a while to come on, but that has been that way for several years. I have a FASS lift pump installed and I can hear it running. After sitting for a few hours to cool it will start up. Help please

Something odd happened this morning. I packed up to head for Ontario, OR today. So my truck was parked in a unheated shop where the temperature was 44*F. Fired up move out on the yard to load up some old tires and wheels. Yeah my old Cooper STT and white spoke rims are gone! Then parked back in the driveway. Wait for MoparMom to get together and left. Well the first 5 miles going down the road if I throttled it at all it was bucking or surging just enough that even MoparMom asked what was going on. Which I told her I didn't know. I had 17 PSI fuel pressure. Rolling light to build engine heat. But unusual to feel it surge like that. After it warmed up fully it was gone nev…

Little background on the situation. Bought a 1999 2500 that was originally an automatic converted to manual, truck runs fine, but is throwing codes for not having the auto tranny plugged in. Ive got the flash from smarty that converted the ECM to manual software but the truck is still throwing the same codes so it must be the PCM. Normally i would ignore the issue but i have to get the truck smogged (Commifornia) to complete the registration…. I know dodge no longer makes PCMs for these trucks so I figure a used working PCM is my best bet as I havent seen many great reviews from many websites selling remans. Will a PCM from a manual transmission truck solve…

I already did the track bar about a year and half ago, but it's time--- Probably way beyond time, for ball joints, tie rods. I got almost 1/2 inch slop up and down in the outer tierods. yep.. I get the goody out of stuff.. So, looking at components from moog. outer tie rods (2) the inner tie rod to pitman, and the connecting bar from that TR to the main drag link. Might as well throw in new connector sleeves too. Then might as well do the ball joints too, Moog again. I'm only going with the standard non offset type. anyone know why they offer 'adjustable' camber +/- 1 1/2 degree? ...the offset do have an advantage I suppose, the uppers are greasable, whereas the …

Alright, so not only do I have steering components to replace, now I may be facing a 2nd replacement of the AD pump! I went and got fuel the other day and dunno if that is the problem or not. We had a good cold snap come through before I filled up and put some diesel 911 in just in case it got colder than the formula for the fuel. They were telling us to expect -20 with wind chill at the time but the coldest we got with wind chill was -7 I think. It did not last long, but I did not want to risk getting stuck somewhere I shouldn't. The fuel was rated for -10. During this time, pressures were good. It was not until after I filled the tank and put more 911 in to tre…

Determined I have 2 crap IP pumps....Need ONE TODAY...any ideas....I am in Eugene, will travel where needed Call me PLEASE 541-232-9958

The head has a weep on the backside. I'm not getting coolant in my oil that I can tell or vice versa. My question is is this something I should fix right now or run it til it starts dripping?

On an earlier post I was considering swapping my pump out to a friend and then ordering a new/rebuilt for me. Now that I have his truck here at my shop I am glad I didn't jump and do that. Upon driving his truck its misses and surges at initial throttle and at light driving conditions. When you put your foot in it, it takes off and runs great and doesn't miss or surge. It even does it going down hill holding it in third gear with very light throttle. The best example I an give you is it feels like a gas engine with a bad spark plug or spark plug wire. Differenece is Once you get past half throttle it runs great. As long as it has a strong pull it runs fine. I'm go…

The wait to start light comes on and does it thing as usual when its above freezing. Truck starts normal and works great. If its colder than freezing, it will take a few extra seconds to light the light. It also takes longer for it to go off when its colder, I think this part is normal. Of course when its hot out the light is on and off right away. Do I have an issue with the ECM or am I just crazy (normal) No codes when scanned. I am not using it for a daily driver ...too darn cold. When the roads are nasty I will drive it cause It will get me there. Thanks Chris

I just installed the new FASS titanium 95gpm pump today. While the truck is running the fuel pressure guage bounces back and forth from 10 to 20 psi and it seems like it's in rhythm with the engine. What is making my pressure guage do this? It levels out some when driving. Fuel pressure never drops below 15 psi at WOT. The raptor did something similar but it was more like a vibration in the pressure guage. Air in the pressure gauge line maybe? And I still think the vp is shot. Same symptoms as before. I tried to post a video but it wouldn't work.

My truck has another problem this week. HVAC is stuck on defrost, the vacuum pump produces vacuum, and all the hoses are connected. How much vacuum should I be seeing at the vacuum distribution plugs near the heater output? there is some oil leakage through the vacuum pump, so is this causing poor vacuum?

Guys Didn't know where to put this post, trailer/RV or here. Sorry if this is the wrong place but I am thinking about installing an exhaust brake on my 2000 dodge 3/4 ton. Looking for suggestions on which one to get. I already have a Banks 4inch exhaust with the power elbow. Thinking about a BD or a Pacbrake. Any thoughts?

I want to know If the vp44 gear is the same in 98.5 to 01 , and also if all the gear in the 98.5 timming cover is the same that 01 have

I don't know their history... I don't know with ant certainty what they are other than Bosch bodies and 7 hole non sac style nozzles. They probably need pop tested and tuned. Are they worth selling or should I just send them in for a core charge?