2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have to say that I've never really paid attention to it before, but I noticed something about my truck this past weekend...With the EJ w/A, 1st and changing into 2nd gear (5600 trans) rapping it up to around 2500-2800rpm each time (from a dead stop) seems almost lethargic in acceleration. But 3rd gear, the truck takes off like a rocket. Same with 4th, and 5th. It's not just due to the short gearing; at least it doesn't feel like it. It feels as though the truck has, say 200hp in 1st, 200hp in 2nd, and 300 in 3rd, and so on.Is that the ECM's control vs speed or something? Or is it in the Edge?

I replaced my water pump a few months ago and ever since I have had fluctuating temps. The new pump is a bosch from pepboys and had a shroud on the impeller and the old unit did not, I also noticed the new one was harder to turn than the old one but that is to be expected. My temp used to set right around 188-194 and now driving down the interstate at 70 I get swings from 188-222 today. It would go up pretty fast and come back down to around 200-205 or so but I cant help but theink its the new pump. I may try a new radiator cap too but what does everyone think? --- Update to the previous post... The old pump worked great but I did a coolant flush and it leaked f…

Alright, so reading into another topic, I see a recommendation was made to make upgrades to the transmission area when installing an exhaust brake.I called Pac brake, and the guy said he had never heard of doing such a thing. All he mentioned was that the auto's have a controller.It really is not much for me to go off of. So if I go pac brake down the road and don't install a stiffer flexplate and input shaft, will I be risking it?

So, right now, I have the stock HX35 and stock sticks. Edge Juice w/Attitude on 3x3 (Drive-mode). I have a set of 155hp BD Pulse-XXX sticks in the garage. My perfect-world scenario would be go to twins, but that's not in the checkbook right now. So, I'm looking at possibly going to either HX40, Silver Bullet, or Super B, or something along those lines, provided they're large enough to air the 155 sticks. I'm not scared to buy a used turbo, either, provided it's from someone I can trust (forum friend, etc.) as the > $1000 price tags are not an option for me. I still need to install my dual-disc clutch, and I need to do tire, brakes, and a radiato…

Ok well we'll see if I can keep y'all engaged here... The pull was from Katy Texas, Camping World RV to San Antonio. About 188.2 miles according to Google Map. For those who may not know, it's flat, with rolling hills (I use that word loosely, big mounds of dirt is more like it). This will come into play later. Here is my set up and whats in my sig. It sat nice. I did pre-hook up measurements with my airlift bags. They were as fallows: From the concrete to the bottom of the receiver hitch on the bumper 5 psi - 21 3/4" 50 psi - 23" 70 psi - 23 1/2" 90 psi - 23 7/8" (100 psi is the max but I just did 90 for 20 psi increments) Here …

Guys, school me on these please. I need to upgrade my current (stock replacement) converter and valvebody. On the 47RE how do I up my line pressure so I can lockup the converter safely when going downhill?

lost my key .. there are some numbers stamped on housing 045 / -052 degree do you think this is my key number .. and if so who is best place to get a new key

Somehow I managed to break the black plastic bit that the clips on the connector engage to hold in place, and so my transmission is hanging on by nothing more than simple friction. I know I, going to have to drop the valve body to replace it, my question is this: where the heck do I get the connector?

Retracted question

I have a miss as far as I can determine it is #6 cyl. I have eliminated the injection pump (VP44) because I can open all the fuel lines(short of #2,because of the intake) that make a difference in the RPM's (other words 2 cyls missing)except for #6 which has fuel being delivered,thus I have eliminated the VP44,I guess I need too make sure the valve's are opening correctly(which I thought I already did,but need double check)I have had the Injectors cleaned and set for proper pop pressure here at Diesel Specialties,No codes, so I know that I need to pull the head(not what I want to do) unless someone has another suggestion.

I just found a leak on the rear of the head at the gasket. It leaks coolant but only when its cold. Once its hot it stops. Is there anything I can do to get a little more time out of it? Will it cause any damage to wait if I keep a close watch on it? Also should I have the head gone through when I have it off? Should I get head studs, and does someone have a kit with studs and all the gaskets? Thanks for any advice (192,000 miles)

So I am coming home and notice my egt's are higher than normal and she is lugging some so I change filters and not much help so I do the key thing and thats what I got. I know I have one somewhere in my nightmare of original eng parts :lmao:but why is the egt's higher than normal?Now I got to remember how to set apps anybody got a handdy link?

Ok in the crankshaft seal kit, it comes with a couple things. The instructions are extremely vague about the parts. In this pic: http://media.photobucket.com/image/cummins%20crank%20seal/FiveNdime/Forum%2520Stuff/CumminsCranshaftseal.jpg It shows the seal, install sleeve and a piece of metal ring. I dunno what the other black rubber ring is, as I have not had one of them in my kits I bought. Although, I have gotten the metal rings in mine. It does not say what it is for and when I first removed the dampener, there was never one between the crank seal and dampener. Anyone have any idea what it is for? If its important to have, I need to know soon, as I have a new crank …

My FP sending unit went bad. I have a new one (still Glowsh!t)... I was told by Glowshift to mount the sending unit about a foot away and to use some sort of metal tubing. And then I was reading on here about a needle valve. Can someone put what I need to do in layman's terms? Also, I'm about to (finally) install my boost gauge. I am planning on drilling and tapping the boost elbow - is there a simpler/better place to put it?Lastly, I'd like to increase my MPG a little. I am planning on getting a BHAF with a filterguard, and doing something to the exhaust. A friend recommended straight piping it... ??Thanks in advance for all the help!

ok am replacing the front driverside axle seal and front driverside wheel bearing First off do all 2500's have the Dana 60 upfront. I looked at the differential and it doesnt say. There is a metal tag that has the #'s 52070136A0 354 611 223Do those #'s mean anything to anybody.Any suggestions or tips on replacing the seal inside the differential.Any tips on removing the hub have heard it can be a bear to get offThanks Rob

My sending unit is located on the upper right (top) side of the tranny above the pan. It is a Banks gauge and the instructions say the best place would be in the pan where the temp is the highest and recommends that location. The instructions also provide an alternate location for the 47RE tranny. The instructions say to locate the rear servo test port on the right rear side of the tranny and install the 1/8" NPT temp sending unit there. Mine is in neither of those locations. I was told by tranny specialist the my location was giving me a higher reading and should be relocated to the side to read the temp of the return side. He said to deduct 15 to 20 degrees from my read…

I have a 2002 Ram 2500 Rwd 5.9L H.O. 6 speed. I had a small oil leak. It was leaking out of the over flow catch bottle. So, I did the crank case vent mod that I found in the tech articles here. So small oil lear went to a smaller oil leak. I power washed the driver side of the engine to get a better look at where the leak is coming from. It only leaks when its running. There is usually about 3 drops on the ground after you shout it off.It appears that the oil leak is coming from where the vp44 pump and air pump/ power steering pump bolts to the back of the timing plate. I guess my main question is how hard this is to do and what is the best way to attack this. Can…

So I got the billet convertor, BHAF, muffler delete and D-box all installed. Truck is working awesome but I want to change out the injectors as I believe they are still the originals and have 440,000kms on them. I keep seeing RV275 listed, are those a 275 horse injectors or 40 over stock? I was thinking of getting injectors from Pensacola off Ebay but read some bad feedback on them on this site and others. So I think I will go with some DAP injectors but I'm not sure which ones I should get. I will eventually get a real programmer that taps the pump, but will probably not change out the stock HY turbo. Are the lower HP injectors worth it or should I just go bigger t…

whats the best filter for my truck i use amsoil how are there filters i have a fleetgaurd on there now any suggestions:thumbup2:

i just installed a used but known to be good vp44. before doing so i never had any of the issues im about to mention. when removing old vp 44 i was rolling over alternator by the alternator pully nut to clock vp44 at 12 o clock my when my ratchet inadvertently touch the positive battery post just for a split second. after installing new pump every thing seemed fine until truck warmed up. when truck warms up and i go to put in r,d,2,or 1 it stalls if i give it some throttle it stays running. sometimes it will start right up other times it wont when it doesnt sometime the lift pump runs for 25 seconds sometimes it doesnt run at all after cracking (not sure if this is tc tr…