2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So if you are familiar with the "whipping the dead horse" thread then you are up to speed on my truck. Recap; new fass UNO five oh- new vp 44- new rv 275- new heavy duty studs- new edge cys w/ juice- adjusted valves- new oil. So how high should my egt be at start up? And then when it's wArm?How accurate is the engine temp on edge? My fuel pressure rides at 16.5 and doesn't go below 15 at wot. Is that ok?My turbo has a hard pipe and I couldn't put elbo on from edge, is that an issue?the banjo bolt from edge wouldn't jive with my fass fitting at vp so should I get a fitting that works? As far as I can tell it just is a low fuel pressure warning?On the edge you can adjust bo…

Alright, been a looooong time since I have had to diagnose a fan clutch. Can't remember how to tell if its operating properly...

I've noticed in my truck and when I had my 5 speed Mustang GT years ago, that when you let off the throttle somewhat suddenly, without pressing the clutch at all, the whole vehicle seems to jolt quickly. Say for example, I pull out and shift normally to 4th gear, then a car cuts me off, and I immediately release the throttle without clutching at all. The whole truck jolts. Doesn't make any clunks or bad sounds. But I was just curious as to what this is and if it does any harm. It gets progressively worse the higher the speed of the truck and RPM's. Usually doesn't do it at lower speeds unless RPM is high. My truck has a fairly new Southbend clutch and the Mustang I referr…

My trucks has been shifting funny, last night I thought it was going in and out of OD to drive. Today it seemed ok when i was just driving it normally around normally, but i was messing with shifting it on a flat streach of road and if I turn off the OD i can tell it goes into drive, but if i manually put it into 2nd itll rev for a second and then its like being in neutral, but if i manually put it into first I can tell it drops into first and revs. And its the same starting from a stop. If i put the truck manually into first and pull out i can tell its in first, then if i shift to second its like hitting neutral, and then when i manually put it into drive you can tell it…

Okay, since diesel engines do not create vacuum unlike the gasoline engine, I need to gain a full understanding of how this works.I believe my system needs a lookin' at. I got a leak going on at the vacuum pump, PS area. It looks like one of the pieces on the unit uses crankcase oil to lubricate as well?Does the powersteering fluid get used in the hydroboost?....does not compute. I need to know what seal or rebuild kits to get fix this mumbo jumbo.

I hope I'm not hyjacking this thread but my torque converter locks up so hard when I stop the struck and do a restart, as soon as I put it in gear it stops the engine. I have to roll downhill in neutral before placing in gear and then the trucks goes just fine.What could cause this? Too high of fluid pressure or level?Please delete this post if it's a hyjack..... I know very little about auto transmissions. Thank you

Well, i finally got around to installing the new RV275's. I will say i had many things that were going downhill with the original stockers as so many things changed after the replacement.Things i noticed after install.Engine is MUCH quieter!No more injector knock on a few cylindersEGT's are better (when foot isnt pushing a hole in the floor)A bit more power (nice to have)Turbo can now reach the defuel setting i have #29psistartup is same no issues thereshutdown is smoother!MPG (that i have calculated to be precise) 20-23mpg @ 65mph!!! (real time lie meter reading)Fuel pressure not jumping around from 14-19 cruising with old injectors, now is stable @17 when cruising with …

Fan clutch has gone bad and need to get a new one. Which fan clutch does a good job at a fair price? I don't want an electric fan. I drive the truck only 4k to 6k miles a year and the pay back in fuel savings, if any, would be seen until after I'm dead. I've check the price on Hayden ( $102 ), NAPPA ( $122 ), and 4-Seasons ( $143 they must be real proud of theirs). So what have you put in and how do you like it?

Well, finally got the truck running back normal again and was going to take it out in the countryside to some property I have with a friend about 75 miles away from everything. Got the truck loaded up and ready to go and as the fuel pressure was just a few pounds low recently thought I would adjust it up a bit and did so in the driveway before leaving. It always runs a good 16-17 psi at idle, and down to a low of 12-13 at WOT. Steady running at 14-15 psi which is fine with me. Got on the road and headed out in the boonies early this morning. About 15 miles out noticed that the fuel pressure was down again, sometimes even hitting 10 or less, which then triggere…

Just tried to look at Vulcan Performance's website and its been replaced with a generic one that usually pops up when either the bill for the website has not been paid or a company has gone out of business. Then tried to call their 800 number and "please hold while we try to connect you" followed by "no one is available, please leave a message" ... Anyone know whats going on? 800 991 7996 http://www.VulcanPerformance.com Trying to price new VP44's and looks like they are not going to be on the list...

I have a 2002 Ram 2500 5.9L C code Cummins with the 6 speed and RWD. I have P0112 and P0237 engine lights. Changed both sensors, problems still there. It has limited power past 1200rpm. I checked all the wiring and every wire Ohms out at 0.0 Pins 7 and 11 Ohm out at 65,000 Ohms and I understand it should be less than 100 Ohms so I'm 99.8% sure the ECM is shot. My query is that my ECM P/N is 3947912 but I called Cummins and gave them my VIN# 3B7KC23CX2M202698 and they said the ECM P/N should be 3947412. The wired thing is the ESN for both ECM's are the same 56853373. Im assuming the ECM in the truck is original since the ECM date is 7-21-01 and the truck build date…

I just installed my edge on saturday and now with the tranny temp guage on there i see its runnin very hot. no problem hittin 200 degrees:pant:! I'm pullin around 16000lbs most of the time but it still seems odd it would heat up so quick. i just replaced all my cooler lines and wasn't sure if i coulda started something than:shrug: ? any ideas or whats the first mod i shud do to fix this?

I have read that it would be benifical to use a SO pump instead of the HO pump. Is there any truth to the statement? If so what are the pros of it? I'm probably about to order a new pump so now would be the time swap. Thanks, Kyle

Hi. New here and I'm glad to find you guys. So I recently picked up a 2002 2500 five nine 4x. 112000 miles. Of course it won't start when hot unless I leave key on till pump stops and then bleed the water filter. I have a Tass one fifty that I'm putting in on tues. there is no fuel pressure gauge but I will be putting one on tues. as well. I guess what I'm asking is my vp going to be shot. Or can we not tell without a gauge. I've never owned a diesel and mine seems pretty week feels like some pretty dead pedal. No smoke on cold start.

Alright, so my log splitter uses 5 gallons worth of hydraulic fluid. I have to replace it all before I start splitting more wood again. I sure would hate to let it go to waste and/or pay to get rid of it. I could always throw it in the fire a little bit at a time, but I wonder if I could use it in my fuel?

My grandpa's truck has a faulty oil pressure sensor. Soon as you turn the kew on it shoots up to 75psi. Found the oil presure sensor but dont have the right size socket to remove it. Does anybody know the right size and best place to get a new sensor. I think Geno's will have the best price at $89. His dodge is a 2001 w/cummins of course.

I just heard of using ATF as lube in the fuel. Any thoughts on doing this?

I get an over boost code periodically sometimes accompanied with a cam position sensor code sending truck into limp mode. I can erase codes and may come back the next day or sometimes not come back for a couple of months. It's a 2001 2500 5spd 4wd it has a edge comp box, fass fuel pump, injectors, slightly larger turbo, it has 135k miles on the truck. Any idea where to start?

I have a buddy who will sell me a Superchips d-box for around $100. Are they any good? I don't need a whole bunch more power, just a bit more than stock is fine.

I have a really different one here. Truck has been running fine recently then while driving to work yesterday the problems just began.Had to stop and pick up some things and when I turned the ignition switch off, the engine kept on running. This had happened one time before but about 2 years ago. We re-cycled the ign switch and the engine then stopped.Ok so I had no choice but to put it into 4th gear and let the clutch out. Engine then stopped and I then played with the key and ignition switch and no luck, even in the "off" position the truck had several red lights still on in the instrument panel. Went in, took care of my errands and returned in 10 minutes and the truck …