2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I recently installed a set of RV 275's. I had some fuel weeping at some of the connections at the head before replacement. I replaced two of my cross over tubes and all of the orings on the rest. I still had some weeping which has gotten steadily worse. On my trip back to work from home it was really bad and I have leaks at all of the connections. So bad it has washed the underside of the truck and coated the tail gate with fuel. I also leave a nasty stain any where I park it on a highway trip. Around town it is not bad, but still leaking. I am not sure what to do other than replace the orings again and see what happens. Anybody have any suggestions?

Ill start from the beginning...About a year ago driving one day i noticed my check gauge lite come on and the volt meter was dead. Truck still running, i shut down and restarted no issues and it was gone. I figured it to be a dirty connection to the battery. It went away for about a year.6 months ago it happened again, same thing, shut down restart and went away...3 months ago yet again. this time i left it running and i checked with my volt meter as i was close to home and found it to be at ~12v at the battery. i figured it to be the alternator on its way out. I shut down and restarted and it was still at 12v but then jumped back to its normal ~14vthis past saturday it d…

hello, newbie and first posti took my injectors out and sent them in and had them pop tested 3 came back good and the other 3 came back bad sticking nozzels,,,Can nozzels stick?i pulled the three bad ones apart just as one of your post shows and nothing was sticking so what do they mean?can this be true?

I am getting ready to swap my 47re to a nv4500, I have all the parts gathered with the exception of the transfercase linkage. My question is , I was going to buy the 5 speed setup on eBay, but noticed my automatic setup looks the same, are they the same or in fact different. I am referring to the pivot mechanism that bolts to the floor and the Rods and such. Thanks in advance!! --- Update to the previous post... Help guys, I need to find this out so I can get started, Thanks!!!

Had a put an external voltage regulator on my truck because the one in the pcm went bad a long time ago... anyways today the truck started to overcharge, i cought it and pulled over asap. unplugged the external regulator so the truck was just running off the batteries got about half way home and the thing died going down the road. Pulled over, checked my raptor pump and it was putting pressure to the filter housing just fine... changed filter, it was not that bad and usually they do not just make the truck die, but changed it just in case. Then it started up and drove home fine. After about 10mins of being home went to move the truck started then died right away. Started …

Well I just had a bad day! While driving my truck passing someone up hill I lost all power so I coasted to the shoulder!:banghead: After checking for fuel at the injectors with #1 and #3 lines cracked loose and getting nothing I then went with the inlet line and broke it loose fuel sprayed everywhere! I called my buddy with his 2008 Chevy 1500 and with a tow strap we made it home!!!:banghead: Broke out the scanner and found a P0251 YIKES!!!:banghead: From what I found on this site that means I need a new VP44?!?!? Can someone please tell me I'm wrong??? If I'm not where is the best place to buy a new IP from? Thanks for the help in advance!

i changed the 15 psi spring out for the 17 psi spring and it worked great, then i went back and put the 15 psi spring back in and the regulator which is on pump snd there is no pressure but the pump does run when bumped. is there something under the ring that the spring sits on that i could have misaligned?

Anyone have any opinions on what to use and how to go about this process? Thanks.

Ok here goes, i have my truck (in the sig) that has a noticable miss when the air temperature is below 40 deg or so. The colder it gets, the worse it is. But it only happens when the engine is under a slight load, not at idle, not at wot. The higher the chip is turned up the more noticable it is also. When the outside temp get above 50 or so I can turn the chip up as far as I want and I'll never feel it.Now my dad's truck is an '02, 6 spd, has a 70 hp bully dog chip on it also does the same thing. Not as noticable but its definitely there when it gets cold or when you throw a trailer behind it. My dad's spent a lot of time at different shops trying to figure this ou…

Just got my rebuilt engine out of the shop it's showing low oil pressure. I bought the mechanical oil gauge and its only showing about 4-6 psi. Ive already dropped the oil pan and the pickup tube looks good. I'm starting to think its the oil bypass? Anyone have a diagram or some advice to help me troubleshoot this problem? Also truck has new oil filter and new oil pump. I read somewhere to remove the oil filter to help it prime and it seems to be squirting out a good volume of oil. Does anyone have a diagram of the oil cooler also?Thanks in advance

p1693, p0500 SPEED SENSORSpeedo works fine.. No idea WTF I'm getting these for..

sorry accidentally posted it twice and the delete option is not there

what is the issue with setting fuel pressure to higher levels, 20 or 25 psi so under load it can flow more volume keeping pressure say around 19 psi at wot. also I'veheard that as long as it starts then it is ok....is that the limiting factor of the pressure going into vp44?

how long do you guys let your engine idle before moving? I thought 10-15 second was long enough to get oil to everything.This forum is great with lots of feedback and interesting discussionStart up idle time

anyone know the dimensions of a radiator core on a 99 isb with ac

Here you go guys and gals. A 10 minute video explaining the entire fuel system of the 98.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins. It shows operation of the lift pump, filter, fuel heater, VP44 and injectors. Someone really out did themselves on this video! http://s1094.photobucket.com/albums/i443/TannerSpangler1/?action=view&current=Cummins_ISB.mp4

Well gang... I've been playing with theories and ideas for long enough now its time to put them into a design and see if it actually works. We all know the 24V's seem to take a good tumble in MPG's as the winter sets in well ISX proved that with the 12V engines with static timing that MPG's don't change. Well if you look at it the only thing that could be tossing this out the window is the IAT sensor on the 24V is changing the VP44 performance. Most know that colder air produces better HP/TQ because colder air is denser and requires more fuel to keep balanced. Well if you reverse this and warm the air (in theory) the VP44 should retune and burn according to the manifold t…

If it wasnt for bad luck I wouldnt have any luck at all!... Now my 01 24 valve is spitting oil out the dipstick bad! I get a puffing noise from where you ad oil in the valve cover. Checked the puke box nothing wrong with it. What the heck is going on???:banghead: Is there another vent for the crank I am missing? Or could it be the vacuum pump again? It runs rough and smoking white. :banghead:

So how much are good used ones going for? I have chance to buy one for $1200. Don't really need it but I hear they are getting harder to get, thought as long as I have my truck it may be a good idea to have a spare until I get rid of it someday, then I can always sell it . Says it has a 1 3/8 10 spline input shaft, not really sure though if that's the same as the one in my truck...anyway of telling short of tearing it apart?

Is it a good idea to retorque the head studs to over the factory specs? and can you pull the out of the head one at a time to oil the threads like i saw on a u tube video