2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

drove home yesterday, 350 miles with no issues, everything normal. i knew i had run the tank pretty low but should have had a couple of gallons left. went to my son's house this am and backed down his driveway. while ideling the engine appearred to run out of gas. with a low tank and steep down hill grade i could not see it being something else. we got back later with 5 gallons of fuel, put it in the truck and bumped the starter. fuel pump ran but no fuel pressure. i figured the slope was enough that the fuel wasnot deep enough to get to the pmp. went back and got 5 more, no change. went back and got 5 more no change. we pulled the truck out of the drive way and got it po…

Backstory: My original 211K alternator was outputting 35-45VAC and normal DC voltage. With some input from Mopar1973Man, all I could gather was that a diode in the rectifier in the alternator was really acting up, but the regulator was keeping the DC voltage in check allowing a AC waveform through. Speed up today: I bought a new premium NAPA alternator and replaced it. The voltmeter is reading a beautiful 13.9VDC, and 25.8VAC. ETA: The standards I have read online for an alternator is .09VAC MAXIMUM, and that if you are reading over that, your diodes are screwed up. I am so confused by this. Anybody have any ideas?

I recently picked up a Juice with Attitude 2nd hand. It came with everyting except the boost elbow. Not too sure what the elbow is supposed to do. I understand it is an orifice, but in a closed system that will only slow down flow, not limit pressure. I was figuring the concept was to keep the waste gate closed, allowing the boost pressure to rise. I was wondering if I could substitute a J-hook (local fab) for a boost elbow, or should I get a new part from Edge? If a J-Hook is adequate, why not remove the OEM elbow and plug the port in the compressor housing and the hose running to the actuator?Appreciate your time,Joe in St Louis

Made a quick trip to the store and on the way back while slowing to make a right hander the Cummins Died . I coasted to the curb. Could'nt see anything wrong. drain a little fuel for Airdog 150 at water filter too see whats up there, looked ok. WALKED a block and a half to get tools, (I Know:lmao:). Remove Fuel PSI sender and add another gauge and was reading 17 before cranking, just the bump of the started so there is psi to injector pump. Then I called Tow Truck:banghead:. Too heavy for me to push that far. After I got home started reading about this, Ck code and found nothing. Now I ask should i ck the keyway at pump or what next? Any advise would be very helpful.--- U…

As you can see in my sig i have a Fass DDRP. i am seeing 16-18 psi idle and 10-13 WOT is this normal?

I have a 99 24 valve auto, when you put it in drive, reverse, or park... there is a big clank. I'm told it's my rear rack/pinion setup. Does anyone have a write up on replacing it and best place to order parts??? I'm more than savy under the hood but this rear end situation is a little foreign to me.Thanks

A while ago I hit a deer,my Right headlight got busted. I replaced the light and bulb.The high beam light came on and wound not go off of,driving lights and high beams stay on at the same time.I have checked the fuse and they are all good the high beam light does not go off stays on .Does anyone know what the problem could be.I would appreciate it if some one could help me .thanks

Well gang I figure I do a simple little show and tell of the 24V injectors for ya... Here is a stock 24V injector (235 HP) Now lets break it down into pieces... (Body, spring shim. spring, pintle seat, mid-body, pintle, nozzle, collar nut, and the copper shim) Ok some people don't understand how small the nozzle holes are... Here is a 10x Mag of the nozzle tip. With and Without pintle in the nozzle take notice to the upper hole that is the fuel hole. This hole routes the fuel down tip so it can push the pintle back against the spring when the pressure over comes the pop pressure of the spring. Here is the pintle needle... …

Hello everyone, I haven't been in here much lately, too much stuff. But now I have several things happening with the truck. Problem 1 I backed it up into the barn the other day during a downpour, so had to engage 4wd to not spin on the slope. I forgot to disengage as I moved and slid it out without enough time for it to fully do so. I parked it and left it for a few days. I start it up and bring it out and slide it out of 4x but I notice that my brake warning light never turned off, nor did my ABS dummy light. Now, my brakes were working, but the pedal travels a fair amount before I really find resistance. I'm not certain they are working at 100%. I've had a lot of brak…

Just as the title states it is just a momentary burp. Very repeatable. Doesn't matter if the engine is cold, hot, etc. According to the Edge Attitude monitor it is not related to throttle position (as the percent of throttle in which it occurs can be different and it still happens.) You can feel a slight lag in the truck then it picks up again. It is fine before or after. It happens about 80% of the time. Some clues that may help...it didn't happen before my hard starting problem appeared. However about a year before the hard starting appeared my check engine light came on and it was diagnosed as a crank position sensor code. The code went away and therefore the …

My heater is warm at best when the truck is at normal operating temperature, using a temperature sensor on my multimeter it's only about 100 degrees. Just had a new headgasket put on at a local diesel shop and the head machined and tested with no leaks or cracks in the head. Put a new waterpump and Cummins thermostat in it, not sure if it was a 180 or 190 but it runs right at 190 according to the dash gauge. What should be the normal temperature of the air coming out of the heater? And any ideas what to check?2001 3/4 5.9 L Standard output, rebuilt engine stock.

The below letter was sent to BANKS... anyone have this problem? I bought my 98.5 Cummins and the gauges were not working, I call Larry he said ,we need to re-flash the Ottomind so i sent it next day air to you. Got a call from Joe saying they wanted to test it in your steak bed. It all check out Great and sent back to me...I installed it to find out that I still have no working gauges...I have a red LED then key on green, when I start and I never get the red LED...I called and talked to James and Jim and Joe many times Jim was going the get with James and I never heard back so I called and talked to Joe, We tried changing the gauge wiring harness...That didn't work... So …

My 02 runs a little over the half way mark on the temp gauge at all times ( once its warm ) which kicks the clutch fan on was wondering if that's ok ?

I got the Donaldson B105006 off E-Bay for $52.25 shipped to my door. When I removed the filter box the I found that the 3 retaining bolts are built in to the fender. What do you do in order to mount the BHAF? Do you grind them off level with the top of the fender, or leave then as they are? MOHOK

I've been using Shell's Rotella Triple protection 15W40 for a while now for my truck and I also use it in my tractor. So today I noticed as I was changing my tractor oil that I needed more, went to buy a 20 litre pail and they had none. They had the 9.5 litre pail and i look on the back and it says the specs listed and it includes Cummins engines. I go to a different store, same looking oil container but the back doesn't say Cummins, but it's still a Heavy Duty engine oil able to be used in Heavy equipment same as the other container says. I call Shell when I get home and they say basically it's all the same oil, they just changed the look , took the diesel writing off …

after my fuel life thread kinda turned into a fuel filter thread, i thought i would just ask what is best.my set up;AD II 165 with AD filters, run to the stock fuel canister, vulcan bif line kit to the vp.i am currently running the stock filters on the AD and the filter in the stock fuel canister is what ever i bought last. it seems the filter in the stock fuel canister no matter where you buy it is the same. in other words i do not have a clue as how good it is. My AD has a WS100 and a ff100-2. i need to order some replacements. thru all the discussions i am not sure which way to go. AH you are the man on filters which ones should i be using. As a father who has one son …

So... In the relay / bus box on the drivers side behind the battery. There are two leads, going into the box. A red one, and a black one. The red wire, goes to the drivers side battery, and the black one goes where? I can't seem to find it on any of the wiring diagrams. (if i am missing it on one of Mike's diagrams, please help) I am showing 12V on the black wire as well as the red, and before putting a DVM on it I had always assumed it was a ground. Does it go to the curbside battery? http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1689&d=1301768556

Just rebuilt my 47re and have a couple problems going on. It is slipping with the TC locked, no matter in drive or overdrive. Fluid level keeps going down with no leaks and not going into the antifreeze like a cooler is blown out or something. I have already put 16 quarts of oil in the transmission and it is showing a quart low again. Just put in a stock overhaul kit, a shift kit in the valve body and a single disc billet converter. I'm kinda lost for where to go next other than keep dumping fluid to the thing until it quits going down.

Ok guys I need some help! Just purchased pyro and tranny temp gauges to go along with my FP gauge. Got some questions: 1. Do you put the tranny sensor on the line that is on the left front corner of the tranny? 2. Is there any reason why they sent a 6' connector wire that goes from the pyro sensor to the elctrical sensor for the pyro? Looks like the wires are already long enough to connect! 3. Where is the best place to get the 12v power source for these 2 electrical boxes? I have seen a picture as to where to drill the manifold for the pyro sensor, I will look for that! Thanks for your input!Update:After looking for the picture where to put the EGT probe, I go and look a…

I need to change my filters on my 01 and I need to buy a AirDog for my 05. I dont know if I am the only one a little confused on this or what. I wont to get the best filters for my 05 for sure so what do I need?I looked up HF6604 and it came back Hyd. filter for 77.50:stuned: So is the Baldwin 1212 the best for water seperater?