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2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.

  1. Started by Bugman123,

    Made a quick trip to the store and on the way back while slowing to make a right hander the Cummins Died . I coasted to the curb. Could'nt see anything wrong. drain a little fuel for Airdog 150 at water filter too see whats up there, looked ok. WALKED a block and a half to get tools, (I Know:lmao:). Remove Fuel PSI sender and add another gauge and was reading 17 before cranking, just the bump of the started so there is psi to injector pump. Then I called Tow Truck:banghead:. Too heavy for me to push that far. After I got home started reading about this, Ck code and found nothing. Now I ask should i ck the keyway at pump or what next? Any advise would be very helpful.--- U…

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    • 24 replies
    • 5.4k views
  2. Started by jwallis,

    As you can see in my sig i have a Fass DDRP. i am seeing 16-18 psi idle and 10-13 WOT is this normal?

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    • 19 replies
    • 4.1k views
  3. Started by mrcarson2590,

    I have a 99 24 valve auto, when you put it in drive, reverse, or park... there is a big clank. I'm told it's my rear rack/pinion setup. Does anyone have a write up on replacing it and best place to order parts??? I'm more than savy under the hood but this rear end situation is a little foreign to me.Thanks

  4. Started by eaglesilas,

    A while ago I hit a deer,my Right headlight got busted. I replaced the light and bulb.The high beam light came on and wound not go off of,driving lights and high beams stay on at the same time.I have checked the fuse and they are all good the high beam light does not go off stays on .Does anyone know what the problem could be.I would appreciate it if some one could help me .thanks

  5. Started by Mopar1973Man,

    Well gang I figure I do a simple little show and tell of the 24V injectors for ya... Here is a stock 24V injector (235 HP) Now lets break it down into pieces... (Body, spring shim. spring, pintle seat, mid-body, pintle, nozzle, collar nut, and the copper shim) Ok some people don't understand how small the nozzle holes are... Here is a 10x Mag of the nozzle tip. With and Without pintle in the nozzle take notice to the upper hole that is the fuel hole. This hole routes the fuel down tip so it can push the pintle back against the spring when the pressure over comes the pop pressure of the spring. Here is the pintle needle... …

  6. Started by jamman,

    Hello everyone, I haven't been in here much lately, too much stuff. But now I have several things happening with the truck. Problem 1 I backed it up into the barn the other day during a downpour, so had to engage 4wd to not spin on the slope. I forgot to disengage as I moved and slid it out without enough time for it to fully do so. I parked it and left it for a few days. I start it up and bring it out and slide it out of 4x but I notice that my brake warning light never turned off, nor did my ABS dummy light. Now, my brakes were working, but the pedal travels a fair amount before I really find resistance. I'm not certain they are working at 100%. I've had a lot of brak…

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    • 18 replies
    • 2.7k views
  7. Started by cummins2k,

    Just as the title states it is just a momentary burp. Very repeatable. Doesn't matter if the engine is cold, hot, etc. According to the Edge Attitude monitor it is not related to throttle position (as the percent of throttle in which it occurs can be different and it still happens.) You can feel a slight lag in the truck then it picks up again. It is fine before or after. It happens about 80% of the time. Some clues that may help...it didn't happen before my hard starting problem appeared. However about a year before the hard starting appeared my check engine light came on and it was diagnosed as a crank position sensor code. The code went away and therefore the …

  8. Started by SWATPARAMEDIC,

    My heater is warm at best when the truck is at normal operating temperature, using a temperature sensor on my multimeter it's only about 100 degrees. Just had a new headgasket put on at a local diesel shop and the head machined and tested with no leaks or cracks in the head. Put a new waterpump and Cummins thermostat in it, not sure if it was a 180 or 190 but it runs right at 190 according to the dash gauge. What should be the normal temperature of the air coming out of the heater? And any ideas what to check?2001 3/4 5.9 L Standard output, rebuilt engine stock.

  9. Started by JLC368,

    The below letter was sent to BANKS... anyone have this problem? I bought my 98.5 Cummins and the gauges were not working, I call Larry he said ,we need to re-flash the Ottomind so i sent it next day air to you. Got a call from Joe saying they wanted to test it in your steak bed. It all check out Great and sent back to me...I installed it to find out that I still have no working gauges...I have a red LED then key on green, when I start and I never get the red LED...I called and talked to James and Jim and Joe many times Jim was going the get with James and I never heard back so I called and talked to Joe, We tried changing the gauge wiring harness...That didn't work... So …

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    • 37 replies
    • 11.7k views
  10. Started by blk90s13,

    My 02 runs a little over the half way mark on the temp gauge at all times ( once its warm ) which kicks the clutch fan on was wondering if that's ok ?

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    • 12 replies
    • 3.2k views
  11. Started by mohok,

    I got the Donaldson B105006 off E-Bay for $52.25 shipped to my door. When I removed the filter box the I found that the 3 retaining bolts are built in to the fender. What do you do in order to mount the BHAF? Do you grind them off level with the top of the fender, or leave then as they are? MOHOK

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    • 11 replies
    • 3.3k views
  12. Started by dobienut,

    I've been using Shell's Rotella Triple protection 15W40 for a while now for my truck and I also use it in my tractor. So today I noticed as I was changing my tractor oil that I needed more, went to buy a 20 litre pail and they had none. They had the 9.5 litre pail and i look on the back and it says the specs listed and it includes Cummins engines. I go to a different store, same looking oil container but the back doesn't say Cummins, but it's still a Heavy Duty engine oil able to be used in Heavy equipment same as the other container says. I call Shell when I get home and they say basically it's all the same oil, they just changed the look , took the diesel writing off …

    • 5 replies
    • 3.3k views
  13. Started by dripley,

    after my fuel life thread kinda turned into a fuel filter thread, i thought i would just ask what is best.my set up;AD II 165 with AD filters, run to the stock fuel canister, vulcan bif line kit to the vp.i am currently running the stock filters on the AD and the filter in the stock fuel canister is what ever i bought last. it seems the filter in the stock fuel canister no matter where you buy it is the same. in other words i do not have a clue as how good it is. My AD has a WS100 and a ff100-2. i need to order some replacements. thru all the discussions i am not sure which way to go. AH you are the man on filters which ones should i be using. As a father who has one son …

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    • 10 replies
    • 2.8k views
  14. Started by CSM,

    So... In the relay / bus box on the drivers side behind the battery. There are two leads, going into the box. A red one, and a black one. The red wire, goes to the drivers side battery, and the black one goes where? I can't seem to find it on any of the wiring diagrams. (if i am missing it on one of Mike's diagrams, please help) I am showing 12V on the black wire as well as the red, and before putting a DVM on it I had always assumed it was a ground. Does it go to the curbside battery? http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1689&d=1301768556

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    • 4 replies
    • 2.5k views
  15. Started by fire176969,

    Just rebuilt my 47re and have a couple problems going on. It is slipping with the TC locked, no matter in drive or overdrive. Fluid level keeps going down with no leaks and not going into the antifreeze like a cooler is blown out or something. I have already put 16 quarts of oil in the transmission and it is showing a quart low again. Just put in a stock overhaul kit, a shift kit in the valve body and a single disc billet converter. I'm kinda lost for where to go next other than keep dumping fluid to the thing until it quits going down.

  16. Started by gassernomore,

    Ok guys I need some help! Just purchased pyro and tranny temp gauges to go along with my FP gauge. Got some questions: 1. Do you put the tranny sensor on the line that is on the left front corner of the tranny? 2. Is there any reason why they sent a 6' connector wire that goes from the pyro sensor to the elctrical sensor for the pyro? Looks like the wires are already long enough to connect! 3. Where is the best place to get the 12v power source for these 2 electrical boxes? I have seen a picture as to where to drill the manifold for the pyro sensor, I will look for that! Thanks for your input!Update:After looking for the picture where to put the EGT probe, I go and look a…

  17. Started by jlwelding,

    I need to change my filters on my 01 and I need to buy a AirDog for my 05. I dont know if I am the only one a little confused on this or what. I wont to get the best filters for my 05 for sure so what do I need?I looked up HF6604 and it came back Hyd. filter for 77.50:stuned: So is the Baldwin 1212 the best for water seperater?

  18. Started by kevin,

    I am experiencing what i think is the TC going in and out of lock up. This occurs randomly and anywhere from 40 at initial shift into OD and cruising at 70+ on the interstate in cruise control. The tach jumps approximately 250 for anywhere from 1 second to 20 seconds with no increase in speed. I have taken the truck to a friend (master mechanic) and he said it could be due to brake switch position. he adjusted the switch with no favorable result. He said that the position of the switch in relation to the steering column does not allow for adequate movement to remove the gap between switch and pedal. The next step that he recommended was a new switch that could be modified…

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    • 6 replies
    • 2.1k views
  19. Started by mohok,

    What is the verdict on using a Fram BHAF? I have used Fram oil filters on my truck for 85k miles without any problems. I used Fram Air Filters on my truck before I got the S&B Cold Air Intake. I think the S&B upgrade was a waste of money. Additionally, I have run Fram filters in most of the vehicles I have owned over the past 50 years. Mohok

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    • 9 replies
    • 2.8k views
  20. Sooo I gotta go help this guy because I know his daughter and ehhh. Anyhow, he went to autozone and got a new battery, wonderful kid there crossed the leads and fried the battery. Think he said they put another battery in, correctly, and it started 3 times so he drove it home. He gets home, inspects the battery and finds the negative lead loose, he puts a shim in it to get it tight and gets in and "click".Says the hood light and dome light are on, nothing else works. I am thinking he fried the other battery which they didn't replace and between it and the new battery it had enough to start 3 times and then it just lived off the alternator, but slowly died on the way h…

    • 16 replies
    • 3.4k views

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