2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Just curious what everyone is seeing for oil pressure. I'm seeing 60-70 idle cold engine, 25-40 idle warm engine and 50-60 cruising down the highway.

friday of last week i drove home from Elizabeth city nc to hickory nc. the truck ran beautiful with no problems. ran it out of fuel the next day. reprimed everything no problem. checked all my fluid including oil sunday before leaving for columbia tn on monday. the truck ran flawlessly again. had my 5th wheel on, drove over the bluridge mountains no problems what so ever. stopped to buy fuel and noticed some oily residue on the landing gear and front of the rv. looked under the truck a i could see fluid on every thing, not dripping anywher but wet pretty much all over. opened the hood and all the resevoirs were full so i pulled the dipstick and i was growing oil. it appea…

Was at my brothers today and was talking about his old ctd 2000 2500 4x4. anyways the lift pumped failed so he went a picked up a 100 dollar edlebrock electric fuel pump, spliced it into his lines by tank and ran them straight to filter bowl bypassing lift pump completely. ran power to a toggle switch in cab which is handy because if anyone is gonna steal the truck they would make it about 200ft before running out of fuel. after install he never dropped below 15 psi and never got above 20-21. anyone else done this?

Do the bolts that hold the rear engine lifting bracket on the head go through the intake housing and do they need thread sealer on them?Reason I ask is I just installed the scheid 100 hp injectors and was test driving and looking for leaks and when I spray things down with brake cleaner It is pulling it into the intake when I spray around the # 5-6 injector line/lifting bracket area.Intake cover and manifold area are ok but it is the area behind it that causes it to start sputtering when I hit it with brake cleaner, only thing I could think is if it was following the lifting braket bolts into the intake?Any ideas?

I have torn down my truck and the head is removed and getting it all ready to take the the machine shop tomorrow to have it checked and shaved flat. Do I have to remove the valve springs before I take it to them or can those stay in? Everything is completely removed except those and I wasn't sure about them.

OK I got time to do some digging to update I was driving down the road and it died would restart only idle rough no thottle response, but after starting four times doesn't idle anymore. Codes were 1688/1689OK 20 psi going into the pump, fuel spits out at injecter line( don't know how much) put a different injecter pump in that I had and it still is the same way it was after it died. Cleared codes and none have came back. Any ideals where to go next, thinking start at the batterys and check every connection I can, will have to take to a dealer next don't know where to go. Thanks for the help:banghead:

drove home yesterday, 350 miles with no issues, everything normal. i knew i had run the tank pretty low but should have had a couple of gallons left. went to my son's house this am and backed down his driveway. while ideling the engine appearred to run out of gas. with a low tank and steep down hill grade i could not see it being something else. we got back later with 5 gallons of fuel, put it in the truck and bumped the starter. fuel pump ran but no fuel pressure. i figured the slope was enough that the fuel wasnot deep enough to get to the pmp. went back and got 5 more, no change. went back and got 5 more no change. we pulled the truck out of the drive way and got it po…

Backstory: My original 211K alternator was outputting 35-45VAC and normal DC voltage. With some input from Mopar1973Man, all I could gather was that a diode in the rectifier in the alternator was really acting up, but the regulator was keeping the DC voltage in check allowing a AC waveform through. Speed up today: I bought a new premium NAPA alternator and replaced it. The voltmeter is reading a beautiful 13.9VDC, and 25.8VAC. ETA: The standards I have read online for an alternator is .09VAC MAXIMUM, and that if you are reading over that, your diodes are screwed up. I am so confused by this. Anybody have any ideas?

I recently picked up a Juice with Attitude 2nd hand. It came with everyting except the boost elbow. Not too sure what the elbow is supposed to do. I understand it is an orifice, but in a closed system that will only slow down flow, not limit pressure. I was figuring the concept was to keep the waste gate closed, allowing the boost pressure to rise. I was wondering if I could substitute a J-hook (local fab) for a boost elbow, or should I get a new part from Edge? If a J-Hook is adequate, why not remove the OEM elbow and plug the port in the compressor housing and the hose running to the actuator?Appreciate your time,Joe in St Louis

Made a quick trip to the store and on the way back while slowing to make a right hander the Cummins Died . I coasted to the curb. Could'nt see anything wrong. drain a little fuel for Airdog 150 at water filter too see whats up there, looked ok. WALKED a block and a half to get tools, (I Know:lmao:). Remove Fuel PSI sender and add another gauge and was reading 17 before cranking, just the bump of the started so there is psi to injector pump. Then I called Tow Truck:banghead:. Too heavy for me to push that far. After I got home started reading about this, Ck code and found nothing. Now I ask should i ck the keyway at pump or what next? Any advise would be very helpful.--- U…

As you can see in my sig i have a Fass DDRP. i am seeing 16-18 psi idle and 10-13 WOT is this normal?

I have a 99 24 valve auto, when you put it in drive, reverse, or park... there is a big clank. I'm told it's my rear rack/pinion setup. Does anyone have a write up on replacing it and best place to order parts??? I'm more than savy under the hood but this rear end situation is a little foreign to me.Thanks

A while ago I hit a deer,my Right headlight got busted. I replaced the light and bulb.The high beam light came on and wound not go off of,driving lights and high beams stay on at the same time.I have checked the fuse and they are all good the high beam light does not go off stays on .Does anyone know what the problem could be.I would appreciate it if some one could help me .thanks

Well gang I figure I do a simple little show and tell of the 24V injectors for ya... Here is a stock 24V injector (235 HP) Now lets break it down into pieces... (Body, spring shim. spring, pintle seat, mid-body, pintle, nozzle, collar nut, and the copper shim) Ok some people don't understand how small the nozzle holes are... Here is a 10x Mag of the nozzle tip. With and Without pintle in the nozzle take notice to the upper hole that is the fuel hole. This hole routes the fuel down tip so it can push the pintle back against the spring when the pressure over comes the pop pressure of the spring. Here is the pintle needle... …

Hello everyone, I haven't been in here much lately, too much stuff. But now I have several things happening with the truck. Problem 1 I backed it up into the barn the other day during a downpour, so had to engage 4wd to not spin on the slope. I forgot to disengage as I moved and slid it out without enough time for it to fully do so. I parked it and left it for a few days. I start it up and bring it out and slide it out of 4x but I notice that my brake warning light never turned off, nor did my ABS dummy light. Now, my brakes were working, but the pedal travels a fair amount before I really find resistance. I'm not certain they are working at 100%. I've had a lot of brak…

Just as the title states it is just a momentary burp. Very repeatable. Doesn't matter if the engine is cold, hot, etc. According to the Edge Attitude monitor it is not related to throttle position (as the percent of throttle in which it occurs can be different and it still happens.) You can feel a slight lag in the truck then it picks up again. It is fine before or after. It happens about 80% of the time. Some clues that may help...it didn't happen before my hard starting problem appeared. However about a year before the hard starting appeared my check engine light came on and it was diagnosed as a crank position sensor code. The code went away and therefore the …

My heater is warm at best when the truck is at normal operating temperature, using a temperature sensor on my multimeter it's only about 100 degrees. Just had a new headgasket put on at a local diesel shop and the head machined and tested with no leaks or cracks in the head. Put a new waterpump and Cummins thermostat in it, not sure if it was a 180 or 190 but it runs right at 190 according to the dash gauge. What should be the normal temperature of the air coming out of the heater? And any ideas what to check?2001 3/4 5.9 L Standard output, rebuilt engine stock.

The below letter was sent to BANKS... anyone have this problem? I bought my 98.5 Cummins and the gauges were not working, I call Larry he said ,we need to re-flash the Ottomind so i sent it next day air to you. Got a call from Joe saying they wanted to test it in your steak bed. It all check out Great and sent back to me...I installed it to find out that I still have no working gauges...I have a red LED then key on green, when I start and I never get the red LED...I called and talked to James and Jim and Joe many times Jim was going the get with James and I never heard back so I called and talked to Joe, We tried changing the gauge wiring harness...That didn't work... So …

My 02 runs a little over the half way mark on the temp gauge at all times ( once its warm ) which kicks the clutch fan on was wondering if that's ok ?

I got the Donaldson B105006 off E-Bay for $52.25 shipped to my door. When I removed the filter box the I found that the 3 retaining bolts are built in to the fender. What do you do in order to mount the BHAF? Do you grind them off level with the top of the fender, or leave then as they are? MOHOK