2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Brake system on my 02 4x4 was not opened up, problem started a few weeks ago after replacing both front hub assemblies. Just pressed brake pistons in and left them hang. Before starting it I pumped the brakes a few times to get the pistons filled and pushed back out. now ever since I loose my power brakeing after about 2-3 applications or prolonged applications like rolling to a stop sign ect. The pedal gets rock hard and there is a grinding noise almost like air in the system and a pump is cavitating sort of like the abs pump is acting funny. I have bled the brakes and get no air and the power steering is operating well and level is good. Brakes work excellent otherwise,…

I need to remove the hvac box. What size plastic tool for the ac do i need for the two near the fire wall?

Some years back there was a lot of talk about turbo timers to prevent turbo bearing cokeing but, for whatever reason, no one seems to know what I'm talking about. Maybe because some of the new fueling boxes have this feature built in them. What I want to do is build my own relay timer so that I can run an auxiliary 12 volt fan for about 30 minutes or less after engine shut down but I cant seem to find any kind of timer relay that can do this. There used to be aftermarket turbo timers which would run the truck for 5 minutes or so after turning the key OFF, unless you opted to override the timer with a button. Maybe there aren’t too many guys who have been on these forums …

My power steering pump looses fluid. The front of it is always wet with fluid, and it leaves spots under the truck.Any advise on fixing it?Such as: any special tools, level of difficulty, is there a seal kit? etc.Thanks for any help.John

Well gang... I finally got bit by the the aluminum rim cracking problem. When in to try and have another set of 235/85 R16 tire put on them and the shop person called me back in the shop and 3 of my rims where cracked. So now I'm shopping for rim and tires again.. I already dropped my rims off with a friend to have them recycled and hopefully he remembers to drop some pics of it on the web...

Drove to work yesterday, and saw I had 1/2tank fuel; seems right. Left work, started the truck, DING DING.. Low fuel light; WTF? Needle was below E mark. Rushed to fuel station ($3.899) and filled up... 18 gallons, that's it? Started the truck to only see the same thing. Reseated the connector on the tank to no avail. The needle barely moves from key on to key off. Do the level senders fail in this manner, or do I need to look elsewhere?Thanks, guys!

I've been using my bed w/ no liner for the last 3 yrs. Cardboard & exercise mats. It's ok untin I get a 1/2 ton of grain on a pallet & they use the tow motor to push it the rest of the way in. I did think I struck gold the other day, one was for sale by the owner in front of his grain store. After taking some measurements seemed like it would fit. I would have tossed it in but my grain was already loaded. To complicate things, I have a fiberglass topper. After 3 trips, no one was around to help me w my shell. After talking w/ Michael on the phone the other day, he expained how the beds were changed w each generation. Thank you for that but i wish I new that before…

Well gang... I started down the long rocky trail of doing ball joints on my truck. Took me over 12 hours to do just the passenger side. As for getting every broke down for removal was a snap. Now the hub nut on the spindle is 1 11/16 nut and had to drive to town and get the right socket. ($14) as for getting the wheel bearings out snap to with a partner there to help out. The socket extension trick does work but not as documented. My buddy James used a longer extension and allow it to push off different areas of the axle tube.Other than that no problem. Take a 8# sledge hammer and nail the top of the knuckle near the upper ball joint and off it came. Now as for using the …

I remember reading some where in this forum about how to clean out subject drain line but can't locate the post now. Will someone please direct me to it or tell me what to use to clean out the line?ThanksMOHOK

There's a fuse for the B/U lights, but appears to be IGN energized. I'm looking for a backup light wire (Violet/Black) under the dash somewhere, that's accessible. I'm wiring in a backup camera, and I need to tag that wire somewhere around the dash, rather than running a 20'wire bact to the lights, or the sensor at the trans.Thanks.

Lately I've been wondering if possibly I've got a problem with my IAT sensor. I haven't gotten any codes but my grid heaters cycle at weird times & I also seem to be getting pretty bad gas mileage. 13-14mpg in town...Sometimes after I drive the truck for a while & it gets up to normal op. tmps I can shut it down, wait 5 minutes, start it back up & my grid heaters start cycling again....Shouldn't the intake manifold have already gotten warm enough that it wouldn't need to cycle the grid heaters again? I live in Alabama too, so it's not like it's cold or anything.... I've already pulled the IAT sensor out & checked it & cleaned it....It wasn't even d…

I discovered that the pins that the front calipers slide on were really stiff. I took them out and cleaned them and now I wonder what kind of lube to put on them, if any.

Lately my steering wheel has developed some movement in it up & down & a popping noise. If you press on top or bottom of steering wheel it makes a pop & moves slightly up and down. It's even gotten so loose that the steering column & wheel seem to rattle when you hit a bump in the road. Is there anything common that gets worn out in these steering columns that causes the steering wheel to have movement in it like that & a popping sound. The popping sounds like it's coming in the area directly beind the steering wheel....Thanks for any help or suggestions.

When ever I drive my truck in the rain my water in fuel light will come on. It will then go off when I drive when its dry. Is there a sensor that gets wet and turns it on? Any suggestions?

Check out this thread over on DieselTurckSite... http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=365

The only rust out spot on my truck is the LF fender so I cut out the rust & butt welded in some 16G metal patches. I need to get behind the plastic fender liner to get some paint & under coat.How do I pop out the plastic retainers. Mine look like they have rivits, so after I pull 'em they're probably toast right? Just cut the heads? Where do I get good ones that hold this well? I bought others that just slide in and are like shredded but don't really hold well. What do you all use & get them?I used those cheapie ones for my stock air filter cover base & they don't really hold that well! I don't what my liner falling while I'm driving!Thanks,Dave

2001 DODGE Ram Pickup (With 2 headlamp system) High & low beam headlamp 9004 Parking light 3157A Front turn signal 3157A Rear turn signal 1157 3157 Tail light 1157 3157 Stop light 1157 3157 High mount stop light 921 Fog/Driving light 896 License plate 1155 168 Back up light 1156 3157 Front sidemarker 3157A Rear sidemarker 194 Ash tray 161 Glove box 1891 Dome light 579 Step/Courtesy light 194 Trunk/Cargo area 921 Under hood light 561 Instrument-general 158 PC194 PC74 Check engine indicator PC74 Hi-beam indicator …

Well I finally installed my Air Dog Raptor. Along w/ that I put in a FP & Trans Temp gauges. Where do I get a hot line that works w/ the light switch?Thanks, Dave

Well I got to admit I learned something and feel like a dumb arse... Ok years ago I stuck a piece of hardware mesh in front of the coolers to protect them from bug, stones, etc. What happened is the wind was flexing the screen and rubbing the A/C condenser. If we dig in the archives I'll admit I JB welded the rub marks thinking to protect the line from future damage. Well the damage was done. :banghead: I took the truck to Lewiston, ID to let a tech track down the leak for me. Found out R134A freon mocule is so small it passes through the JB weld epoxy and the tech found the green dye leeching through the JB weld. Sad part is the condenser and the high side pipe are both …

My AC was out... I was assuming the evap core had cracked again. I took it by a new mechanic to check it out which he did while I waited... about an hour. He seems interest in discovering the problem & just fixing that, than replacing a bunch of parts. He discovered there was still some freon in it... he tried to get dye into it... I think he went back & forth 3 times... in the end he succeeded in recharging it. He thiinks that the filter was not replaced on the previous repair... perhaps it was plugged & he dislodged it. Anyrate I now have cold, although still stuck on the defrost mode (vacume control problem, that we knew). So the charges were $…