2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

I had to repair my heater blend door, thus requiring me to loosen and pull back the dash to remove HVAC box. After reassembly, my abs light is on. Chkd fuses, they're ok. Suggestions? thanks guys. - - - Updated - - - Well, just got back from a short drive and the light went off. Anything to be concerned about?

So my aux port that's always hot without key on just below cigarette lighter outlet is only working with one device plugged in, if I plug something else in it starts to turn on an off. I checked the fuse under hood and found the one marked for aux 20amp, pulled it out and looks like it's been getting hot. So I put a new fuse in still does same thing. Something is getting hot and acting as a on off switch. Here is a fuse I pulled out. Any ideas, I'm thinking maybe something under dash is rubbing, on first glance I didn't see anything wrong.

While removing my inner front fender cover I found two wire connectors [male and female] with many fine wires. they were attached to the lower rear of the drivers side wheel well and just inside of the outer fender and exposed when removing the inner fender cover. It just does not look like any electrical engineer would design a wire harness to just hang like this and not secured to anything for protection. Have any members found the same wiring on your Dodge/ Cummins. 1998.5, vp44 4x4 5 speed.

hey guys and gals: Currently having an issue with my ABS/Brake light popping on then staying on- doesnt happen 100% of the time but a majority of driving time they are both on! I have replaced the rear axle speed sensor as well as the transmission sensor. The speedo needle will bounce very erratically and the brake pedal will sometime fall while sitting at a stop. I am thinking i have a booster problem or a proportioning valve issue. the left front tire will sometimes lock up hard under medium brake application. All the brakes lock up fairly easily on wet roads though. I have done full brake jobs with new wheel cylinders in the rear and …

okay so i have a 98 2500 that didnt come factory with cab lights whats the best oem solution to do and any tips on doing so thanks!

I have someone who wants to buy my old pulse monitor. He wants to see it work before buying can I remove the iquadbt and plug in the pulse with the v2 downloaded on module?

Was driving home and lost my power steering and brakes. Fluid spewing out of the reservoir cap. Replaced the P/S Pump, and bled the system of all the old fluid, replaced with new PS Fluid. Bled the system with the front end on jack stands, turning lock to lock over 100+ times, filling the reservoir as needed. Still no power steering and squishy brakes. All my lines are free and clear of blockage. The new P/S pump was making a *woowoowoowoo*noise with the pickup running and cap off, would go away when cap was put back on. I have ZERO leaks anywhere on the system.

I’ve read Mike’s comments on the AC compressor cycling, and tend to agree that it shouldn’t cycle if performing correctly. However, I’ve noticed mine will cycle with the heat on (defrost). Is this a normal function?

I went to leave work today and noticed a hazard sign flashing on my Adrenaline display. It was coming from the trans temp icon. I opened it up and the temp was bouncing all over the place, anywhere from 0-220*. I have a mechanical gauge that was still reading less than 100 and the truck had only been running a few minutes so I knew the fluid wasn't hot. When I started driving it settled at 100* and stayed there only occasionally popping up to 108* and then back down to 100*. By the time I got home my mechanical gauge was at 140* while the Quad was still hanging at 100*. The transmission performed flawlessly as usual, could this be an issue with the Quadzilla or the …

Here are some pictures of how I connected my fuel gauge to my 2002I connected it to the scharder valve on the vp44 and tightend it well.

Had to replace my evap core today...it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. Mopar1973man, thanks for your video, that definitely was a lifesaver...I watched it bit by bit, as needed, and wouldn't have realized there was that last stud behind the PCM-:banghead:. I didn't disconnect the heater core hoses at the heater core, but rather off the feed and return lines on the engine...this seemed to help keep me from dumping fluid all over the cab when I pulled the box out, and was easier to get off. Since it was getting dark when I put it all back together, I did forget to hook them back up at first... Probably should have used a flashlight! I did what most of yo…

Hi all. So I just completed a 4 switch and resistor build for high idle and combined winter mpg fooler but I had a question as to the resistance on that.I'm using a 2.2k ohm resistor to get a reading of 143*F through the IAT. Obviously I want the highest reading I can get and still save the advanced timing from my edge comp. What got me thinking is even in the summer I never saw a reading quite that high, I saw 130's plenty of times but never more than that. Is 143 too high and the vp is going to retard timing to prevent problems that it thinks are coming therefore taking away the gains I am trying to get here. I'm having a really hard time being able to tell if I'm actua…

I need help in locating where to purchase the two rods that go into the wheel cylinder for the rear drum brakes.

flatbed progress pics: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/9117-flatbed-is-bolted-down-getting-close/ And of course, when I took off the old box, I just cut the whole harness... figured I'd sort out the wires later! uggg. Anyone have the schematic of rear body wiring?

I found this random black wire that was just sitting on top of a bolt near the abs unit. Not sure what it is, looks like maybe a ground wire but not sure. Anyone know what it may be for? It seems to split from the harness just before the abs. See pics, hopefully you can see where it comes from.

So in building my truck (getting to building firewall and floor) I'm interested in how much room is needed for the shifter tower (and TC shifter) and gap between the trans and tunnel? Should I place the tunnel flush with the trans as it sits w/o the shifter tower bolted on/ just above the TC shifter bracket top?

I told the new owner of Big Blue to visit your forum, so he can get some good tips on keeping her running. I am sure you would like to have her back any ways.

Anyone ever taken the seat heaters from one seat and put in another? I have access to factory heated seats but they are the wrong color so I thought if the elements are removable just put them in my seats.

How can I tell which of my heater hoses is the inlet and outlet? And I use the inlet hose for flushing, is this correct? I know there's an easy way, but can't find it anywhere. Thanks. - - - Updated - - - I see the two hoses, one goes to the water pump, the other comes out of the block and goes directly into the heater core. I'm guessing the one from the block to the core is the inlet. Is this correct?

I have been getting an intermittent no bus message since July or so. It had went away until my hunting trip last week. When it happens I of course lose all my gauges, but I can pick them up on my ScanGage2 through the OBD port. It seemed to happen on rough road so out of curiousity I tapped, or more like punched the cluster and everything came back up. This happened a few times. Since I can read speed, tach, etc. through the OBD port when the dash goes blank is it safe to assume that the problem is a loose cluster? Just trying to narrow it down before I start the long drawn out testing process.