2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

As i sit here at a local auto shop for an alignment, after replacing my steering parts with moog, the auto guy comes out to tell me that he won't be able to remove the clunk noise im getting in the steering parts. He proceeds to tell me that i should have gotten better steering parts as these joint ends don't have anything to keep them from rotating. I know what he's taking about as i have seen them before. He told me with the way it sits they won't last long. He was shocked to hear that they are moog parts. Although i thought the solid pieces he's talking for the joint ends were to just combat the death wobble more. I would think that moog would …

Since iver owned this truck I've noticed the turning radius is garbage compared to my 2006 gmc 2500 gasser. While looking at my lower control arms I can see where the steering stop is slowly eating away at the lower control arm, which makes me think there is more availability to turn the wheel. Has any one cut the steering stops off before to decrease turning radius on these 2wd trucks ? I've debated cutting off a 1/4 -1/2" to see how well it helps worst case scenario I cut to much off and have to weld a piece of bar to the lower control arm to make up for the piece from the spindle I cut off.

New to the forum, been doing a lot of reading since I bought a dead 98.5 cab chassis with an 11 foot service bed. Got her running soon enough and have most of the bugs worked out of her but I am troubled by a wobble - shimmy at about 64 to 68 MPH. Have replaced most all front end components (ball joints steering box - way bad, and a couple of the steering link joints link joints) as well as the the track bar twice. It is from Autozone. The first one I threw on a few weeks ago and didn't think anymore about it, had other know bad parts to replace. All said and done everything I've found to be bad has been replaced, some obvious, some checked with a dial indicator and jig. …

Guys, Am still having problems with the heating and cooling in the cab of the truck. Driving home tonight it was getting a bit chilly here, in the mid 50's. Turned the heat control from full cold to mid-way up the scale. Nothing happened at all. Had the blower on fresh air. Turned it 3/4rd hot and still no change. Finally went full tilt hot and about 3-5 seconds later heard a vent door shut and immediately it got full hot.Ok, so we know that there is hot water in the heater core. Turned the temp control back to 1/2 scale and no change. Turned it back to full cold and no change, its still full tilt hot. After about 15 seconds it went from full hot to full cold outside air.…

I'm sure most of us are experiencing cold weather one way or another, and so I'm curious if you have had any problems related to steering/ hydroboost issues. Whenever it gets to the low teens or single digit temps, I start the truck in the morning, and fires right up, and you can hear and feel loud humming vibrations in the cab. It gets loud if I touch the brakes or turn the steering wheel, and you can definitely feel it vibrating through both. I figure something maybe with the hydroboost. It had been doing this for years, and I thought maybe a new steering pump would fix it, but it didn't.(needed to be replaced anyway.) Anyone else experiencing this issue? …

i turned on wipers to clear ice from windshield i freed the blades 5 min previous the wipers are off i turned them on now they iced up and smoke came from the dash i turned them off immediately the smoke stopped i free'd the wipers everything else in the dash works any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as soon as it warms up a bit i'll try to find the problem thanks

I've had the Toyo tyres on my truck now for about 2 years and within the last 3 months or so I noticed an out of balance wobble starting to get worse there was several speeds where it was worse and the tyres were wearing very odd like the front edge of all threads wearing off. When I had the tyres fitted the guy told me the rims or tyres were way out of balance and that he had to use a lot of weight to even get close and to be fair the truck was never 100% and had a slight wobble over 60mph that settled out about 65mph. It was getting worse so I decided to try beads Dyna beads to give them a name, called the company here in the UK that I presume imports t…

Does anyone have a cab wiring harness diagram? I got a new led cargo light and the dang thing wont go off (clear only ) so I need to start tracing wiring to see what's going on... Diagram would be very handy Thanks!

Getting ready to install my alarm in the truck and while the interior is out, I am want to spray the inside with a sound deadener/insulation material. 2 things I founs are lizard skin and a product called coolcar. Leaning towards coolcar since they are in seattle if they will let me pick it up locally instead of shipping. If not, well then its a matter of overall price including shipping. Anyone have any experience with either? Oh I am also replacing the carpet with a full vinyl flooring as well. from auto-interior.com I want biege but I think it will be a tad too much. so going with the black.

i recently left the key in my switch with the switch on. the next morning my batteries were dead. i mean stone cold dead the key in the switch bell would not ding. got it jumped of and as long as the air temp stayed above 45 she would start no problem. they definately do not have much reserve power in them. will draining them that low kill them? they are 4 years old from advance auto, silver

Hello all, I am back again with of course, more problems with my rig I'll try to explain straight to the point and give the quick backstory... Popping noise when turning, thought steering box was bad. Got it replaced along with tie rod ends, end links, etc with a brand new redhead. Drive it home and it happens again and the box is leaking out the top. Take it back to the shop I had the work done at and they replace the redhead with another redhead. No more leaking but the pop came back again literally on the drive home. I go back again and they say the frame is cracked (cracked around the driver hole for front sway bar). They repair it and send me…

I bought a used 1998 24V QCSB (185k) about 6 months ago. Occasionally, it will fail to start for exactly one hour. Then it will start right up. I suspect an aftermarket alarm. I have no fob that might have come with the alarm, but there is a switch hidden under the dash which enables/disables it. Same problem not matter which position the switch is in. Most of the time it starts just fine. But has failed to start twice in the last week. So, the frequency may be increasing. Any ideas at all? I know the alarm has lots of wires but haven't any idea where to start to troubleshoot. And it may not be the alarm at all. If it is the alarm shutting down the ignition and it has a t…

Alright, so with what I'm runnin' on my truck, I noticed something particular. Running at highway speed, I approach a grade. I keep on the throttle and EGT will go up as it should. Except, the temp on the gauge goes from 600 or so, climbs to 800, stops. It struck me as a little weird that it would just stop like that. Especially considering the fact I was pretty much about 2/3 the way up the grade.I got into the throttle more to see if I could make it climb more, but at this point, I had the turbo spooled up and the load decreased into relation of the grade and speed I gained.I coulda swore I could get the egt's to shoot higher. They have before... :think:Just trying to m…

Well I have my dashboard patched. I use the Goop again. I worked it in the crack with a razor blade.Let it set up overnight. Then I used my dremel with a soft nylon brush to remove the excess goop off the dash.I drilled through the end of the crack on the front side of the dash to stop it from cracking any farther.I then used a dental burr ( same one I used on my fender ) to open the crack up some but not go all the way through.I used my finger to fill the crack up, and a little above. Then used my razor blade to level it off, and the dremel to smooth and remove the excess on the last part of the crack - well its a break actually.Smoothed it off and then I put a coating…

Well I am trying to figure out why my Ram started to eat the front tires. The truck is basically all stock replacement parts except the ball joints and track bar. The ball joints and track bar are all Moog parts. I jacked up the front end and did the typical 12 and 6 o'clock test to see if there was any play in the hub or ball joints and couldn't manage to see anything even when using a pipe under the tire. The only thing that really stuck out to me was the track bar. When on the ground you can visually see the gap increase between chassis mount and the ball stud in the track bar. The symptoms the truck has is the steering wheel is off by about 1/3 turn toward the d…

So last week I was in town with the a/c going, I parked and went into the feed store to get some stuff. When I came out the vent was blowing warm air. I checked the fuse, relay and the pressure and all where good. I took off and pretty quick the a/c started blowing cold again. It did it one more time while I was parked and started working again when I started moving. The other day I went into town and the a/c did not work at all. Parked or driving, nothing but hot air out the vents. I have been told that the switch in the cab could be bad, but when I switch from the vents to the floor it changes just like it should. Just wondering if I am missing something?

Ok got my truck back today from the shop. Complete front end. BD Adj Trackbar, all tierods, ball joints, stabilizer bracket. The steering is really tight. if you turn it it stays turned and honestly it takes a lot more effort to just turn the wheel then it did before it went in. Before it was so bad i could saw the wheel back and forth and it would make no change to the direction of the truck. So thats the story. the shop says drive it for a week and it might loosen up. The joints are Moog and i was told the drivers side is the really tight ones they actually broke 3 ball joint presses trying to get them out and finally had to cut one of them out.The question is... Is thi…

Had just left the house on a 300 mile round trip. Got about 8 miles down the road travelling 55 mph when all the sudden the steering wheel started shaking. It got worse by the second, so I immediately began slowing down to pull off to the side of the road. As I slowed, I started smelling a very strong brake smell, and by the time I got to a stop the smoke was rolling over top of the hood . This is the second time this has happened to me in the past year. I replaced my original rotors almost 2 years ago as they were due for replacement and while I was in there put new Napa calipers on. They lasted 8 months before the left front siezed up on me. Luckily I was only going up…

Hey thanks for your help, I finally got the bluetop gearbox installed and wow! what a difference. This truck drives so well now. Loving it. Minor issue though - I'm now getting a hum/whine and some steering wheel feedback and low speed turns with rpm ~1000-1300. > my suspicion: When bleeding the PS fluid BEFORE the gearbox install, I let the fluid run low and suspect i hurt my ps pump > steps taken: i bled system before installing the gearbox. followed the guide here for the 3rd gen to flush. installed gearbox and followed bluetop's guide after connecting lines to gearbox - lifted tires off ground, disabled fass…

Hey,Got the email about cleaning inactive accounts. Don't cut me off man! I just started to look into this and figured I would post to make sure I was active. My steering box/ gear appears to be leaking and is a bit sloppy. I saw this at a autopart chain's site. AGR Performance Steering gear. "Super Box 2 Variable ratio 13-16:1 with firm valving for better handling and drivability at hwy speeds. Many performance components like AGR’s tribearing, Billet aluminum caps, etc. All in vibratory finished case."Anybody recommend this or something else? Sounds good, I like the variable ratio idea, but this aint no sports car.