2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Looking up some parts today. Somehow across this fill in your VIN number and up comes your belt and hoses. Going to print out and keep in glove box, just in case. I'm not in love with Gates but thought it was handy. http://www.gates.com/catalogs-and-resources/resources/repository/engineering-business-applications/vin-decoder/vin-decoder

The truck had a pop sound on the frontend. When you turn the wheel to a certain degree to the left and then pops again when you turn it back right. I thought it maybe the ball joints so i replaced them and still popped. I asked around and others said it was the track bar. I purchased a new track bar and installed, now i have more popping than i had in the beginning. To top it off my steering wheel is turned 10 to 15° to the left... i did some research and found most saying turn the adjustment linkage to fix the steering wheel. Just making sure this is correct and wondering if the is anything else that may cause the pop.

Hey all, I need to solder the end on my alternator cable to get a better connection. The one on the large cable that connects to the stud on the back of the alt. I replaced it in the past and did a really rough crimp and solder job with pliers and a torch. I've learned some things since and want to re solder it to get a better connection. I got a 150/240 watt soldering gun with a pretty hefty tip to use. My question is, should I use rosin core or acid core, or does it not matter? I know you cant use acid core on electronics, but I'm not sure if it matters on something bigger like this...any suggestions? When is it ok to use acid core and when is it good to use rosin?…

Well seems I am the latest victim of the ABS and brake light coming on.Came on sometime yesterday while driving around. I checked for codes with my Scan Gauge and nothing. Rechecked and nothing. I used the key trick and got P0500, which made sense to me. The SG still does not see it so it wont clear it. Guess i will check the connector and then replace it if all seems well with the wires. Still surprised the SG does not see it.

Followed the instructions posted here on replacing seals on the hydroboost assembly. My question is this, is my accumulator check valve supposed to have a ball bearing in it? The *generic* schematics included show one, and everything I see online shows a ball bearing. Cautionary videos online say to make sure you put that ball bearing back or severe damage will be caused. But I am about 87% sure I did not have a ball bearing inside my valve when I took it apart. can anyone give me any insight. Edit, working on 99 Cummins.

As i sit here at a local auto shop for an alignment, after replacing my steering parts with moog, the auto guy comes out to tell me that he won't be able to remove the clunk noise im getting in the steering parts. He proceeds to tell me that i should have gotten better steering parts as these joint ends don't have anything to keep them from rotating. I know what he's taking about as i have seen them before. He told me with the way it sits they won't last long. He was shocked to hear that they are moog parts. Although i thought the solid pieces he's talking for the joint ends were to just combat the death wobble more. I would think that moog would …

Was waiting in line at the drive throught for my baconator & baconator fries fix and noticed something on the dash out of the corner of my eyes. Looked at the dash and the abs light came on then off a few times. I was in park and idling at the time so it threw me for a loop becasue I wasn't moving. Anybody got any ideas? I checked alt the other night & ac volts at 0.045. Thanks in advnace. L8tr d

Hi all, I replaced my intermediate steering shaft about 2000 miles ago because it had a lot of play in the upper joint (rag joint I believe) and it did not slide freely. I replaced it with a OEM Doorman one from Rock Auto. Anyway, it has already developed the same amount of play after 2000 miles as the original had after 250k miles. I will not pay $270 for a stupid Borgsen shaft because thats just crazy. So, I was thinking about ways to make this thing better and I came up with drilling out the rivets and replacing them with bolts so that I can actually tighten up that joint. What are your thoughts? Good idea or bad? Will it be a safety issue? Better…

i got my ac working again the other day but the controls are stuck in the defrost mode. I know the controls need vacuum to operate and all my other accessories work, 4wd and the exhaust brake. I have vacuum where the line goes thru the firewall at the evaporator. A good while back when I replaced the evaporator I noticed the hard line going thru the fire wall had cracked and I replaced a section with vacuum hose and have vacuum to that point. I figure while installing the new drier or high pressure line I most likely fractured the hard line going thru the fire wall. Does this hard line go straight to the multi point connector for the controls? I could not quite contort m…

Lately, the idea of taking some of my work to a local shop to ensure it gets done better than i could has been biting me in the rear. First it was a shop that couldn't do my alignment because they said they couldn't adjust my sleeve. Today i take my brake rotors in to get turned. Let alone they are one of only few shops around that even turn rotors anymore! So i tale them in and come back in 45 min as they told me an hour to do the job. I wait out in the car and the guy comes out and tells me the rotors are too big. He wasted 90 min of my time before bothering to come out and tell me he couldn't do it. He said he's never had this prob…

I've been having trouble searching for threads on this site so I apologize if this has been covered! Found a set of 2011 wheels in excellent shape off of a 1 ton. I just want to be certain that they will fit and/or if they would need to be modified to fit! I have a Dana 80 rear with drums. Only info that I've found so far is that I would need different lug nuts. Could have sworn I have seen a member who has the same wheels on his rig! Thank You

Hey guys, Just wanted to show you all my little creation. I've been wanting to make one of these ever since I read about @KATOOM using an exhaust blanket to successfully lower his trans temp. I don't tow much at this point, but I figured keeping the heat off the trans and t case can't be a bad thing! My original intention was to take a piece of 6" exhaust and cut it in half. Then weld some anchors on to give it some standoff. Anyway, my father-in-law had some stainless sheet laying around that he said I could have. At first I though it was too light(it's a little thinner than a street sign), but it actually worked out perfectly! I toyed with the idea of attemp…

Hi, I have a 2001 dodge 3500 Cummins diesel.I have a dead fuel gauge issue that doesn't seem quite like the others that I have researched,so I could use some help. It reads empty at all times, UNLESS I unplug the batteries for 15-20 minutes and let the truck reset. At this time the fuel gauge will read full for about 15 mins, before it slowly drops to empty again and stays there permenantly. Here is what I have done. I have dropped the tank and I have replaced the entire canister/float/fuel level sending unit. I used an volt meter on the new sending unit and as I moved the float up and down I watched the resistance change. I have done the gauge test and watched the g…

Hi guys, what I got is a 99 Cummins I recently blew the driver side headlight. I have a harness that goes from my passenger side headlight plug over to my driver side but doesn't plug in. I have a hid kit installed with ballasts. My problem is I don't have high beams I only have lows. So I checked the pins, fueses on and on. Then i unplugged the aftermarket harness and put in oem 9007 cheapie bulbs and what I found out is driver side works fine high and low my passenger side though only works on low. and I keep blowing the fuse 15 amp rt headlamp under the hood. I don't know if I have a short or a fuse I'm not seeing or that harness is shot and someone knows where I can g…

Hey all, I got my truck inspected this past Friday and they told me that my hard brake line that runs behind the fuel tank isn't gona last much longer. My dad recommended just leaving the old piece in and fishing a new one through, and I read it quite a few guys doing that on CF. Does that sound like a decent idea? Anyone have any ideas they think are better? Also, I read a lot about this new copper/nickel alloy brake line and guys are saying it's great to work with and doesn't rust. Any opinions on that stuff? And what size are the fittings on that line? I believe the line is 3/16 but I don't know the fitting/thread size.... thanks!

I was just about to replace my sway bar bushings and read on another forum some guys removed the sway bar all together. The front bar that is... Anyone here try it?? I know it's better for off roading etc and i'm certainly no stranger to using swaybar disconnects, but just wondering if people leave them off even for the highway. maybe the Suspension is stiff enough that it will not make too much of a difference?? anyway for the amount of time it takes I'm going to remove it and take it for a little spin and see what I find...stay tuned. P.S- I did have the rear sway bar disconnected, actually I bought the truck with the links bro…

Well half way through my trip up north I have found that my Balls joints are loose again. The moogs lasted 20K The Danas lasted about 15k Not really sure what to do. I would love to just get something that lasted from the factory, but I dunno. Thoughts on what to try? Should I do the dana ones again?

How can I get the quietest exhaust I can?

Beginning yesterday my abs and brake light in inst cluster are stuck on. Fuses are good. Is the problem still more than likely the speed sensor on rear axle, even if speedometer was working most of the time until late today when it seems to have quit completely. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.

Will I do any damage to my truck if I take out the front driveshaft and drive, obviously no 4x4? I have to check it this weekend for play, but I can afford to have the shaft rebuilt/yoke replaced right now. Reasoning behind this is a front end vibration at speeds. I'm having some new u joints pressed in today for both axle shafts but both u joints seem tight. Front end is new, new wheel bearings last year, ball joints are tight. Guy at the drivetrain shop said the yoke is probably shot...