Ford

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Man I know why I hate Fords. This A/C compressor is a PITA to change out.

Oh boy. One of the local raft companies had an fuel issue more or less thinking fuel pump. First thing I checked was for power at the fuel tank sender but there is zero power. Checked fuses and relays. Then checked the interia switch in the passenger side foot well, which has no power. I'm starting to think there is a electronics issue. I pulled out my code reader and ran the KOEO test which turn out P0232 which is fuel circuit hi code. I did find a wiring diagram that shows a fuel pump driver module. Suppose to be at the rear on the frame. I've not found said fuel pump driver module. I'll takeaway help I can get.

My friend has a 1990 Ranger with the 7.5" rear axle. We recently grabbed and installed another 7.5" axle from a 1990 ranger that had a Trac-loc in it from the junk yard. He wanted a little more traction as it's his winter driver. He even got bigger rear brakes and some 3:73 gears in the deal. We changed the fluid with some Castrol 80w-90 for LS rear ends. The truck drove fine on the test drive and got my friend home but now he says it's starting to make grinding noises. I plan on adding a bottle of LS additive even though I thought the Castrol already had some, the Royal Purple I put in my mustang did and I haven't had any issues. If the Trac-loc needs to be rebuil…

Well I know I said I was going back to doing just Dodge Cummins. When you have @Honey Badger uncle asking if I can help him change a manual tranny in a Ford Range I thought is small and light should be easy. Nope. What a pile. So much crap to remove including the front fender shield and the front tire to reach the bell housing, the though to pull the transfer case off... Nope you can get the top 3 bolts. Another time when ford made it so bad it would be better to remove the cab so you can actually reach all the bolts and do it much easier. Since I'm working in @Honey Badger yard it going to be a fun one to finish up.

All I can say is Ford Uhaul box trucks are a complete piece of junk. I know why I've never owned a Ford. Trying to help a friend bring his RV from Mesa, AZ to Idaho. We didn't even get out of AZ and the check engine light popped on and started rattling till it dead in the middle of the desert. Sat in the heat waiting for it to cooldown. Got it started, talk about gutless. Made it to Boulder City, NV for the night. Most likely have to trade trucks to keep going.

Finished doing some upgrades on my Ford today. Bulletproof EGR cooler, oil cooler relocate, water pump, blue spring fuel upgrade, an injector, and cleaning up the stuck variable vanes in the turbo..... Tue, wed, Fri, sat....9-10 hours each. Took Thursday off to let my body recoup a little. Lower ribs and stomach are bruised along with my forearms and inner biceps. Almost everything has to be done laying on the grill/radiator, legs hanging in the air. Quite the experience. One I hope to never have to repeat. This truck was definitely engineered to not be user friendly. Running good again. (Knock on wood) Makes me love and appreciate my Dodge all…

Custom rebuild by Blue Top for the 1977 Ford I've been working on. @Blue-Top Steering

..030 over, chevy valves, chevy rockers chevy Distributor. Fabbed upper intake plenumn Ported head about 20 hours worth For this truck

..030 over, chevy valves, chevy rockers chevy Distributor. Fabbed upper intake plenumn Ported head about 20 hours worth For this truck

Man what a crappy design for a Ford. More plastic parts and poorly designed setup. I had a job from an old lady she had no ignition key control because the pin in the plastic rod fell out. The part was cheap at $16 dollars but installing was not fun. That rod in my fingers goes inside that square hole.

For medical reasons (wife) I can't use my 2003 little tiny Class C with a 5.4 engine in it. Parked since about 2016. I start engine and the generator once a month, get some oil splashed around and charge the batteries. I add a fresh gallon of gas about every other month which brings the tank just about full. Last couple months feels like a miss in the engine, do you think it's okay if I were to idle it more let's say maybe 35 45 minutes and at a higher RPM than idling speed would hurt anything? I let the license and insurance lapse being is just being parked for now, so can't take it on the street for a proper exercising. I also add gas treatment when I a…

look close I did the replacement of the flexplate on this 97 Ford F250 7.3L diesel. Pulled driveline, transfer case, and transmission in the gravel in North Riggins. My shop has my 2002 in it currently. I would of been in the dirt at my place too. So I did it on site at the owners place.

Left Rear Support Bracket, beside fuel tank, rusted out and was replaced. Removed the old front bushing, on Forward Eye, cleaned it up. When I went to replace with new bushing, it fits, but it just slides in, there is no interference fit, and it requires no press. Is this normal? I’ve checked the part number and it’s correct. O.D. Is 1-5/8. When I did the rear smaller bushing, I needed a bolt and stack of washers to draw it in. Picture is an “example” of the type of one piece bushing replacement I’m using. It smaller size used on rear end of leaf spring. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks Leaky

Being I normally deal with mostly 4WD trucks out here. @Jthor truck has the driver side tire wearing on the outside shoulder only. I've been thinking about it and want to verify my thoughts with others here. The outside shoulder of the tire is wearing this is what I think... Excessive camber on that side Wheel bearings are loose and need repacking. I'm hoping others could chime in with their knowledge to verify this.

Here you go gang... I got hired by Riggins City to fix their ambulance. The fuel lines between the fuel filter on the frame to the first connectors have an issue with leaking fuel. Last fire call I went on the EMT's handled the passengers in the vehicles and hauled to Grangeville ID. Needless to say the ambulance left a puddle of diesel in the ER bay. The fuel lines are expensive $250... Ugh! But you can see the residue on the frame and diff... This is the only fuel plumbing in this area and no part store carries this part.

I just bought a SCT GTX 40460S tuner brand new for a steal, I know it's a tuner but that's it. I see DAP lists it for $599 ish but what is it and what's it for, I know nothing about it as I have gen 2 Rams, any info appreciated, once I figure out what it is I'll sell it

I was handed a rather good challenge to fix. I needed to have a pedal assembly rebuilt being salvaged pedals assemblies tend to all have the same fault wore out on the clutch bellcrank pin and bushings. I did a bit of Google search and turned up a guy named "Altered Ego" that does awesome work. When he got the assembly I sent in he called me and told me it was the worst one yet to see and totally wore out. Now after 2 weeks of freight time and waiting for pedal pads I got it back and it looks excellent. Even with grease zerks in the pivots. All upgraded with brass bushings, removed all the plastic. Total Cost $460 for the rebuil…

I've got to admit that 7.3L engines are fairly straight forward and easy to work on. The glow plugs are under the vavle cover. As for the injectors you need a Allen wrench and remove the oil deverter. Once removed you can use a 8mm wrench on the bolt toward the intake and 8mm socket on bolt towards the exhaust. Once the two bolts are removed you can use a small pry bar to simply lift the injector out of its hole. Things to take note of Ford OEM injector seals are black and aftermarket seal are like orange a light purple color. This biggest thing is being sure your high pressure oil rail is seal and the fuel rail is sealed to prevent crossing of the two fluids or leaking o…