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The time has come to produce the Mopar1973Man High Idle & MPG fooler switches again.

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Well Gang, 

 

 

The Board of Directors on the Mopar1973Man.com has decided that we need to produce some new High Idle Switches for the 2nd gen 24V Cummins.  We have spent a considerable amount of time designing a Brand New High Idle / MPG fooler Switch.  

 

We have learned from the last switch design and have made significant improvements.  The New High Idle / MPG Fooler switch will be the same price as before, but it will be more robust and modular to allow for easier install.  

 

We have decided to only offer a "Install Anywhere  Kit" rather than a gauge mount or Cubby Mount.  You will nly have to drill one 1/4" hole to allow for the fitment of the switch.  

 

Some teaser pictures. 

 

20150929_161411_zpszaiy7q2z.jpg

 

20150929_161404_zpshximsfww.jpg

 

 

 

We are making 50 switches to start then another run of 50 after that.  You can order them from The Mopar1973Man.com Store I expect to have them ready to ship within a 6 week time. 

Edited by Mopar1973Man

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  • Got my switch installed. I'm about to jump over to CF to post a quick install write up, I just wanted to share that the switch does in fact fit in the overhead console. As already discussed, the wire

  • Mopar1973Man
    Mopar1973Man

    All high idle sales will be here on the site for here on out. We will be the producers, vendors and the support team rolled into one...

  • I finally installed my high idle switch today.  I put in in the overhead console.  The cable that comes with the switch is just a little too short.  I ordered a 12" extension from Amazon and I was abl

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19 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

It is. if you take it out of P it will disengage high idle.

Ok, I wasn't sure if it was the brake switch or the "signal P/N" switch interrupting the high idle when you take it out of park. 

1 hour ago, isaac hall said:

I do have an OBD reader it can only take snapshots of the engine, and it reads conditions that should trip the high idle. I did think about the clutch switch and simply grounded it, re-calibrated  the apps again, no difference. The truck seems to run fine with out doing anything to the ecm although that does not mean I am missing something.

 

I havent heard about the Signal P/N what needs to be done to accomplish this?

If the P/N signal is referring to the park neutral signal being sent to the ecm I believe grounding out the transmission is sending the signal of park to the ecm (I disconnected it from the clutch safety switch and grounded it) and the 6cyl still did not function. I have read that there are different apps for auto and manual would this have any impact?

 

I'm not sure if the apps on an auto or manual are different but I believe the ecm just needs to an "idle" signal from the apps so it shouldn't matter. 

Thanks for the input, I think I need better monitoring and make sure the throttle isn't sending any signal. If the throttle is saying its depressed than I'll at least know where to start.

 

  • Owner

Stock APPS is based on voltage. So looking at the back off the sensor have a voltage tag. BELOW should ground the idle pin. ABOVE will ground the THROTTLING pin.

Timbo's APPS its based on bellcrank angle and not on voltage.

So I finally got the dealership to enable my high idle. I've been using it the past few morning start ups and I seem to be maxing out around 400 for EGT, does that sound about right? I could've sworn I've read some guys have been able to get temps nearing the 900 range, but I also imagine there trucks are configured differently then mine.

  • Author

400 is about right without an exhaust brake.  

Alright cool, does an exhaust brake really bump the numbers up that much?

  • Owner
4 minutes ago, notlimah said:

Alright cool, does an exhaust brake really bump the numbers up that much?

600-700*F in 6 Cylinder mode with Exhaust brake.

800-900*F in 3 Cylinder mode with Exhaust brake.

So... yeah it really does bump the numbers way up!

  • Author

If I close the vanes on my he351ve all the way in 3 cyl mode I can get egts above 1000*F

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Got my switch installed. I'm about to jump over to CF to post a quick install write up, I just wanted to share that the switch does in fact fit in the overhead console. As already discussed, the wire is too short, so I'm not functional with the switch in place. I have some wire that an electrician gave me, it's basically cat5, but stranded. It should work to extend the included wire, but I'd rather have it done clean if possible.

Nick, is there any chance I could get a longer wire? Or, if possible, a female to male extender wire to plug in under my pedals and run up the A pillar and over? I don't mind paying or waiting, it doesn't really get cold enough here to need the high idle; I'm mostly in it for the MPG.

(The switch next to the high idle is my EZ)

IMG_20151115_090504.jpg

IMG_20151115_090546.jpg

IMG_20151115_180312.jpg

Would this be considered powertrain, or non-powertrain? I'm thinking non?

  • Author

I actually don't have enough wire to build you anything haha.  I actually had less than a foot left over from the first order. but if you want you can build your own using the male and female. 

 

Just run the wires pin 1 to pin 1 on male to female, pin 2 to pin 2 etc etc etc etc.

 

Parts you need are here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Circuit-Connector-2-Complete-Molex-Wire-Conn-with-Pins-Molex-Mini-Fit-Jr-/221887898821?hash=item33a98ca4c5:g:U9IAAOSwqu9U0n5M

 

Edited by Me78569

Thanks Nick. What wire did you use? I'd like to keep everything consistent if I can.

Edited by sleezy

  • Author

haha doubt you wanna buy it, it comes in rolls of 500' 

 

it is just 18 gauge 6 strand with a ground wire, so 7 wire total. 

 

Cat5e should work fine, provided it stays inside the cab, and not exposed to oil and so forth.

 

Great looking install by the way!!  Pretty cool to see it up there.  

Edited by Me78569

Then I guess those connectors and the wire I have should work. I didn't want to risk funky signals or anything, since the switch works with resistance.

Thanks. I was really stoked when I got the switch and saw that it would fit!

  • Author

I bet!

 

the provided wire should read most of the way up the a pillar, so I would think you would only need a few feet of cable max, I doubt that will have a large impact on resistance.

I guess I'll let you know . . . I think I'm going to make the new wire go down to the pedals; much easier to run just wire than trying to get that connector fished up through the A pillar.

Finally got the write-up posted on CF.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-non-powertrain/1841457-new-high-idle-switch-available.html#post21191873

Let me know if I should change anything or add anything. I do have pictures of my ScanGauge showing the IAT and ECT reading as designed, but I figured the post was getting long. I can throw em up if somebody asks.

Nick, I think your videos are the way to go over typing everything out and getting the stupid pictures to all match up!

Great looking install Sleezy!

Being in Vancouver your idea of cold and mine must be different! haha I think it gets plenty cold to use 3cyl, but I also want to try and warm the truck up as quickly as possible as a lot of my trips are short.

7 hours ago, sleezy said:

Finally got the write-up posted on CF.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-non-powertrain/1841457-new-high-idle-switch-available.html#post21191873

Let me know if I should change anything or add anything. I do have pictures of my ScanGauge showing the IAT and ECT reading as designed, but I figured the post was getting long. I can throw em up if somebody asks.

 

Looks great! Nice write up on CF