Well Gang, 

 

 

The Board of Directors on the Mopar1973Man.com has decided that we need to produce some new High Idle Switches for the 2nd gen 24V Cummins.  We have spent a considerable amount of time designing a Brand New High Idle / MPG fooler Switch.  

 

We have learned from the last switch design and have made significant improvements.  The New High Idle / MPG Fooler switch will be the same price as before, but it will be more robust and modular to allow for easier install.  

 

We have decided to only offer a "Install Anywhere  Kit" rather than a gauge mount or Cubby Mount.  You will nly have to drill one 1/4" hole to allow for the fitment of the switch.  

 

Some teaser pictures. 

 

 

 

 

 

We are making 50 switches to start then another run of 50 after that.  You can order them from The Mopar1973Man.com Store I expect to have them ready to ship within a 6 week time. 

Edited November 22, 20159 yr by Mopar1973Man

If I drove the truck more then I do and actually used the switch, I'd say that's definitely a possibility, but I don't so I don't think that's the issue.

 

Also, I was thinking, I recently sold a hypertech tuner since I wasn't using it and before I sold it I plugged it into this truck to verify that it was unlocked. I'm wondering if that uploaded some crappy old ECM load and took off my high idle goodness

OK here's screen shots from different types switch positions

 

Truck had been running already for a littless

 

Here's it in what I thought was OFF

 

 

Here's it in what I thought was 6cyl

 

Here's it in what I thought was 3cyl

 

Here's it in what I thought was MPGS mode

 

What do you guys think?

Is bottom left coolant?

Yea it is. 

I have 2 of the old style "first gen" switches and both quit working.  One has a problem with IAT and the other ECT.  I tried to fix to no avail and figured I should upgrade to the new design.  My only concern is how long is the wiring.  The first two I had to solder in an additional 36 inches of wire and they worked fine until they didn't.  The overall length from where the wires come together in the engine compartment to the switch on my modified fooler was about 8ft stock was 5ft.  Thanx.

8 hours ago, notlimah said:

Yea it is. 

I will talk with Mike about it.

9 hours ago, notlimah said:

Yea it is. 

 

 

So your numbers look right but your placement seems off.

 

The switch position from left to right is 

off |  MPG | 6 cyl | 3 cyl.  

 

Can you put those images in order of notchs when you turn the switch clockwise?  

 

 

Once you verify image location vs switch position we will get you fixed up.  Thanks!

Ok so the images are in order from starting fully counter clockwise then each click clockwise. So I just labeled the images wrong but they are in the correct order.

 

I guess my follow on question then is if the numbers are right and I'm seeing an insanely long delay in my WTS light going out, something must've changed ECM side then right?

so you are trying to start the truck in the mpg mode?  first click clock wise?  If so I don't see why the ecm would be letting hte WTS run so long.  If you had it in the 3rd or 4th position it makes sense, but not the 1st or 2nd posiiton

 

 

I am still confused about the last position now that I look at it.  It looks like the ect is swapped.    If you are willing ot ship it back to us we will test it and get it fixed if there is an issue.  

Yea so that sounds like what was happening. I got the switch positions backwards and thought the MPG mode was the very last turn to the right. So that explains the long WTS. If you think something might be off I can send it back to ya. I just took it out of my 99 because I was going to put it in the 02. 

It looks like the ECT for 3 cly is mixed up with 6 cyl.  I am more than happy to fix it for you.  You can run it how it is and not worry though.  If you ship it to me ASAP so I get it before Friday I will have it fixed and back to you right away.  After Friday I am gone for a few weeks so it would have to wait.

 

Or you can ship it to Mike and he can fix it.  Either way.

 

All I need is the switch itself, not the harness.

 

Let me know what you wanna do.  

Ok I'll send it in to ya! Just let me know where and I'll get it sent Monday morning.

I'll have you send it to Mike and he can take a look.  I am guessing the it for 6cyl and 3 cyl are mixed up.  Easy to fix.

 

I will pm you an address

Hey guys. I am still running one of the original switch assemblies that were sold through DAP and I am finally starting to have some issues with it. As soon as I turn it to MPG it throws a P0113 code/CEL comes on. Is there something I can do to fix this or is the switch just bad? I dont mind doing a little work to it if I know what to look for.

Look for a short in the bare gorund wire in the engine bay and also on the switch.  

Ok will do.

22 hours ago, Ilikeoldfords said:

Hey guys. I am still running one of the original switch assemblies that were sold through DAP and I am finally starting to have some issues with it. As soon as I turn it to MPG it throws a P0113 code/CEL comes on. Is there something I can do to fix this or is the switch just bad? I dont mind doing a little work to it if I know what to look for.

 

 

Design fault. When Ed Grafton @Yankneck696 created those everything was soldered to the legs of the switch in return placed all the cable weight on the legs as well causing the switch contacts to pull out of the base causing P codes to start showing up. The problem is you would have unsolder everything replace the switch then resolder everything back on and end up back here again when it fails. 

 

This why the whole design was changed over to circuit board design this reduced the strain on the switch and made it serviceable. If the switch fails at this point it's easy to unsolder the damaged switch and solder in a new switch. 

 

 

I see. I do like the looks of that new switch a lot better. Guess I will have to break down and get one at some point. Thanks for the info.

I'd really like to have one of these switches but after talking to the local dodge dealer about enabling the high idle, at first they didn't know what I was talking about, then after looking up the tsb, informed me it was only for auto transmissions. They did tell me they could check my vin # to see if it was even possible on a manual. There are a lot of 24 valve trucks around here and it seems strange this dealership has never heard of enabling the high idle. I've been hesitant to return. Thanks for the opportunity to vent. 

1998.5 to 2002 all truck can have high idle. If Smarty Programmer can enable high idle on all 1998.5 to 2002 trucks regardless of transmission configuration. All I can say is the dealer is not very educated about these vehicles.