So I've started to notice that in the morning my truck has hard a little harder time starting. By harder time I mean, just cranks a little longer then it typically would. We haven't had to cold of mornings (high 30's low 40's) but it used to be 1 second or less and it'd fire up. This morning it was 3-4 seconds and then she fired up. I did just change some things with the Smarty so the battery was on for a little longer then normal before actually cranking but this isn't the first time it's happened. My driveway is at an incline so engine bay is slightly higher then the tank. So I'm wondering...

 

Could it be batteries? Before starts my needle is juuuuust above the lowest marker on the battery gauge

Intake heater no working properly? I have noticed more white smoke then usual on cold start ups

Fuel leak? Haven't seen any spots in the driveway, and the system definitely primes once the key gets to 'ON' typically see 5-10psi needle jump

 

So what do ya guys got?!

 

 

Sorry to hear your having so much trouble figuring out your leak. I certainly know what that's like! Hope you get it figured out soon!

Thanks man!

 

It's frustrating for sure, but it's definitely not the worst thing that could be happening. At least the truck still starts and runs, I just have to watch out for those pesky hills!

 

I did think of you though trying to get these g dang JIC fittings at the VP snugged up! I swear if I put them any tighter they're going to snap off, and before I loosened them, they worked fine! -_- ughhh! haha

So just talked with Eric and he seems to think there's nothing really wrong. He said that even when parked on a hill with a completely sealed fuel system that gravity could still pull some fuel back. Either way he said that 5-8sec before starting isn't a huge concern and that I shouldn't worry about it. So just for my piece of mind I think I'll replace the T fitting grommets, replace the return banjo on the VP and replace the fittings for supply side of the VP. Eventually I'll replace the crossover tube O-rings, but that's just something I don't want to mess with right now. I'd like to wait until I can get some new injectors before replacing those.

That's good to hear! Interestingly enough, my truck will sometimes start just a little harder after the grid heaters run. I've noticed that if it's just barely cold enough for them to run, it will crank just a touch longer than if I start it in mpg mode so they don't run. Must be that it turns ever so slightly slower after that major current draw. My point is that it seems there are a lot of little things that factor in. I completely understand your wanting it to start quick though, I am the same way :-)

The other issue is I have another truck to compare it too! haha

 

My 99 will start almost instantly, where as I'm having these issues with my 02. You'd think they'd be more similar but apparently not.

 

I still think that my system isn't getting a 100% sealed because I've read of plenty of people having the same issues as me and replacing the grommets at the T and such and it's fixed their issues so we'll see how things go once it's all replaced.

the video clearly looks / sounds like there is air in the system.  

Agreed. That's why I'm still going to replace a couple things up in the engine bay. Just not going to tackle the crossover tube O-rings until injectors. That is to say that after all the things I do, I still have the same issue.

I would say try the grommets first and see if that fixes it. Or try something else first and see if that fixes it. Then you would know what the problem was. FWIW my needle valve has some excess fuel on the line to the gauge and causes no problems. If you do all of what you want at once there will still be a mystery and it will drive you crazy.

Yea that's a good point Dripley but I have to factor in time to my 'work on the truck days.' When I attempt to fix this fuel leak I'll also have to get the new steering put on in the same day. With the youngster around, I don't get as much time to wrench. 

 

For or sure a new input connectors are the VP will go in just because mine is blocking the power steering cap right now so I have the 45* bend from Vulcan coming that will solve that issue.

 

But I don't think that's causing this issue since that only showed up once I started fooling with it and caused it to seep and drop my psi 1-2. 

 

The T fittings are the only logical thing that's causing my issue so I'll replace those and hope it fixes it.

I have a quick follow up observation I've made.

 

I haven't had the chance to get the grommets replaced at the T yet, so I've been parking nose down just to avoid having these longer starts unnecessarily. Well when parked nose uphill, my lift pump always would do a quick 1sec prime when turning the key on and I'd typically see a 2-4psi bump on my gauge. Parked nose down, the lift pump doesn't seem to do the same 1sec bump. It even happened after restarting the truck after I drove to work and it being parked on level ground. No 1sec bump at key on, no fuel pressure gauge psi bump, but still fires up instantly, then fuel pressure builds shortly after the engine's running.

 

Anyone else ever notice this?

6 hours ago, notlimah said:

I have a quick follow up observation I've made.

 

I haven't had the chance to get the grommets replaced at the T yet, so I've been parking nose down just to avoid having these longer starts unnecessarily. Well when parked nose uphill, my lift pump always would do a quick 1sec prime when turning the key on and I'd typically see a 2-4psi bump on my gauge. Parked nose down, the lift pump doesn't seem to do the same 1sec bump. It even happened after restarting the truck after I drove to work and it being parked on level ground. No 1sec bump at key on, no fuel pressure gauge psi bump, but still fires up instantly, then fuel pressure builds shortly after the engine's running.

 

Anyone else ever notice this?

My FASS150 always gives me the little 1 sec bump in pressure at key on. I've been watching it since you've been talking about it. uphill, downhill or on a severe side slope yesterday up in the mountains 

Thanks for that BBHD! I'm wondering if it's just because I still have a leak somewhere. Just weird it only happens during certain times. 

 

What psi do you see on the 1sec bump?

The ECM controls that little bump. Cant answer as to why it would doing it facing uphill and not down hill. I hear mine every time I turn the key no matter what attitude my truck is in. I usually see about 5 or 6 psi, but if you open the needle valve you will see more. It is relative to how restricted the flow to the gauge is.

About the same 5-6 psi

Thanks guy, I'll crack my needle valve open a hair more. Hoping to get new plumbing installed this weekend and hopefully (fingers crossed!!) get rid of this issue.

 

I finally got around to re-installing the turbo in my 99 and after sitting for almost 2 months the truck fired up instantly! Gonna be hard to sell her!

Following this... I have the same issue as you.

but i have a basically stock Airtex intank lift pump ( new).

I get a slight diesel fuel smell in the cab but every thing seems dry... 

You did tighten injector lines eh? Not sure if i read that u did that or not.

I was thinking it's my injector o-rings.

if so fuel would be in the oil correct? 

I took an oil sample but haven't sent it away yet. 

 

7 hours ago, notlimah said:

Thanks guy, I'll crack my needle valve open a hair more. Hoping to get new plumbing installed this weekend and hopefully (fingers crossed!!) get rid of this issue.

 

I finally got around to re-installing the turbo in my 99 and after sitting for almost 2 months the truck fired up instantly! Gonna be hard to sell her!

you dont have to adjust anything. Yours is fine where it is. What you get pressure wise on that bump is insignificant.  

BIG BLACK DODGE, what kind of fuel pressures do you see with the new intank lift pump?

 

The town talk is it needs to come out and get a different pump. Plus some other things to make it right.

Edited July 2, 20168 yr by JAG1

8 hours ago, BIG-BLACK-DODGE said:

Following this... I have the same issue as you.

but i have a basically stock Airtex intank lift pump ( new).

I get a slight diesel fuel smell in the cab but every thing seems dry... 

You did tighten injector lines eh? Not sure if i read that u did that or not.

I was thinking it's my injector o-rings.

if so fuel would be in the oil correct? 

I took an oil sample but haven't sent it away yet. 

 

 

Injector o-rings would push fuel into the oil.

Crossover tube o-rings would leak fuel onto the manifold.

30 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Injector o-rings would push fuel into the oil.

Crossover tube o-rings would leak fuel onto the manifold.

Can someone educate me, I thought orings were to keep oil out. And fuel is sealed off with copper to metal and metal to metal. But then again I forget a lot.