Last time out with the 5th wheel the right side fender decided to customize itself. I was wondering if any one else has had this happen and what they did or have an idea.  

New replacements are $150 each which I think is a lot for molded ABS.  There is aluminum trim fenders for $90 each or rubber trim for $50 for two.  One other thought was take the other side off and have fiberglass copies made by one of my customers that glasses surfboards. 

http://www.icondirect.com/keystone-5th-wheel-travel-trailer-fender-skirts-fs710/

http://www.trailer-fenders.com/tandem-axle

http://pacerperformance.com/products-footer/flexy-flares/universal/no-lip-side-mount/led-smoke-hi-5-cab-roof-light-kit-88-02-gm-style-detail

Edited April 3, 20169 yr by IBMobile

My self I would most likely opt to either buy some plexiglass and cut my own fender trims and paint them. Or another is to go to aluminum shop and get some nice diamond deck and cut that to fit. As for the plastic it is lighter but UV tend to make it brittle over time. Don't feel bad I've lost a door holder latch. The one on the driver side of the RV that holds the cargo door open.

I want a long skinny diamond plate tool box for above the rail of a pick up bed mounted on the rear, for a bumper with special made brackets. This would afford some storage and could stuff Michael nelson in there if he gets too rowdy at camp.

Another option is to cut a nerf barf that fits the profile. Slicing it down the middle would take some time but affords a right and left side. I donno  just some thought.

Edited April 4, 20169 yr by JAG1

51 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

This would afford some storage and could stuff Michael nelson in there if he gets too rowdy at camp.

 

Try me...

could order some uhmw and cut your own.

I made some rain shields for my rv using a verticle end mill and UHMW after about 10 yrs they cracked terribly. What I like about aluminum diamond plate is you can cut with a table saw, skill saw, you can router egdes and round it over, but you need good goggles for eye protection.

Ive been looking to repair mine after a blow out couple years ago, Its just been siliconed back to gether, but needs replaced. I like the idea of those metal fender flares, I didn't know they made those. for the money I think that would out way the labor of trying to fab some up.

I like the idea of diamond plate.  I'm thinking 3003 aluminum  @ .025 thick, each side 12"x72" and trimmed to fit.  Now I have to run it by the boss and see if she likes it or not.      

46 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

I like the idea of diamond plate.  I'm thinking 3003 aluminum  @ .025 thick, each side 12"x72" and trimmed to fit.  Now I have to run it by the boss and see if she likes it or not.      

3M double stick tape works good too for attachment. Clean both surfaces real well for good stickem.

Well the Boss gave the diamond plate the go ahead so I went to two metal supply venders today.  The first place had it only in 3003 aluminum 48"x96" x.125" for $186.  The next supplier had 3003 aluminum 48"x96"x.063" for $110. I think that .063" will work just fine.  I should be able to cut it down to the 12"x72" on my table saw with a carbide blade and do the radius cuts with the jig saw.  I might put the rest of the diamond plate as trim on the front of the 5er.

  I'm interested to see how this is going to turn out.

Same here be sure to post sme pics

I lost both of mine a while back. Seems I blow a tire every 3 or 4 years and what ever is there is suddenly missing. i do like the diamond plate however. I still get puzzled looks when I tell folks how easy it is to cut.

I charged up the battery for the camera and will take a few pic of the process.  I'll probably start this project the beginning of next week.   

2 hours ago, dripley said:

I still get puzzled looks when I tell folks how easy it is to cut.

I've got a Delta Contractor Saw with a 30" Unifence  and plan on using an old carbide blade.  Since the material is .063" thick putting the blade about .25" above the deck should give a clean cut.  Any thoughts?

Nothing wrong with new blade either. Our store front installers cut all of there window mullions with miter saws and the blades last a good while. I have cut a lot of aluminum and brass with a skill saw. The cuts are only as good as the one doing the cutting. An emory wheel in the grinder is great for dressing the edges. The table saw is going to help a lot for cleaner edges I would think. 

Got that sheet of 3003 aluminum today at 12:30 and had the fenders hanging by 5:30.

Cut the sheet down to 20" x 96" on the table saw using a fairly new carbide blade.  Thanks Driply !

 

 

Did a lay out to maximize material

 

Make a copy and cut that one out.

 

cut out and the edges sanded with 220 grit paper in a palm sander

 

One side installed temporarily.

 

Now the top of the fender is lined up with were the original fender was but the original fender curved under the body and I can't bend the aluminum to follow the curve with out heating it.  I'm going to raise the fender about 1" until the bottom is even with the trailer body.  That should finish it off.

Very nicely done. Looks good.

That's cool. Now I'll recognize you at camp. That's what I thought too is to raise it up a bit.

Your could hammer the roll into the aluminum if you had a form to do it around with a rubber mallet. You could at least try it on a piece of scrap.

 

It does look good. 

I found out the original fenders were just slapped on at the factory.  The right side had a 1"+ variation between front and back, never noticed it before. 

I found the center line between the axles and the center line of the new fender, measured down 1½ " from the molding above the wheel wells, drilled and installed.  I think trying to hammer a curve into it with out knowing the radius, having a jig and annealing it would be a bit hard to do.  Now I have a sheet 28" x 96" left that I'm going to use as a rock shield on the lower front part of the 5er with more pics to come about that.

 

 

It looks good. I think you've started a trend with that