I'm stuck in Boise. I just lost a wheel bearing. Cell 208 315 1470. 

11 hours ago, Jolsen said:

1999

I would plan on changing the Front Rotors at the same time.  In order to change the rotors on that year you have to pull the wheel bearing.  I don't know exactly what year the design changed (01 or 02??) however on the later design front hub assembly the rotors slip on and off without pulling the bearing.

Edited April 20, 20177 yr by deehammer

Just saw this Michael.... you get everything you need? 

 

As for the best the free spin kits are the best, but with the OEM sealed type I have heard good things about the Timkens. 

 

I would try to avoid generic NAPA, Car Quest, etc.

Edited April 20, 20177 yr by AH64ID

Budget way too limited for flashy free spin or timken. I've still got to replace the passenger side bearing at roughly 500 for the pair. @MUDDY try to sell me on the free spin but my pockets are not deep after injectors, VP44 pump, and now wheel bearings.

Timken are 175 on Amazon and Rock Auto sells timken as well. That would cost less than 500

2 hours ago, TFaoro said:

Timken are 175 on Amazon and Rock Auto sells timken as well. That would cost less than 500

Do not have the time to wait for the bearings. I need this truck to keep rolling. MoparMom has to make trips to dialysis. I've already took a good hit from driving the 96 Dodge for the week making only 14 to 15 MPG and requires 91 octane or better. Not cheap. Already got the passenger side bearing in the bed of the truck.

Edited April 20, 20177 yr by Mopar1973Man

Why does it require 91 or better? 

16 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Do not have the time to wait for the bearings. I need this truck to keep rolling. MoparMom has to make trips to dialysis. I've already took a good hit from driving the 96 Dodge for the week making only 14 to 15 MPG and requires 91 octane or better. Not cheap. Already got the passenger side bearing in the bed of the truck.

Understandable. 

Not sure why it would need 91 octane. I run 87 in my car at with 14+psi of boost and it's just fine with it. 

Mopar Performance PCM. If I run less than 90 octane the preignition knock gets rather nasty climbing grades. The Performance PCM was only 360 dollars compared to nearly 900 dollars for stock PCM. 

Mike so replace the Bearing that you have and order a Timken for the other side off Amazon for $175 if it can wait a few days.  I got mine off Amazon and I am pretty sure it was prime so it arrived after a couple of days.  Understood on the need to get the rig running. 

Edited April 20, 20177 yr by deehammer

That would make for a good comparison on longevity/quality 

6 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Budget way too limited for flashy free spin or timken. I've still got to replace the passenger side bearing at roughly 500 for the pair. @MUDDY try to sell me on the free spin but my pockets are not deep after injectors, VP44 pump, and now wheel bearings.

Ha Ha yeah he has the power bug now, can't spend extra $$ on fuel saving stuff anymore, hes got power mods to buy lol.

Edited April 21, 20177 yr by Wild and Free

3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Mopar Performance PCM. If I run less than 90 octane the preignition knock gets rather nasty climbing grades. The Performance PCM was only 360 dollars compared to nearly 900 dollars for stock PCM. 

That kinda sucks. It is what it is I guess though. 

Not knocking Timken but they like everyone else get their bearings from all over. I just put 2 new front hub bearings on mine that I bought from an old member here for $150 for the pair. Not one mark on them as to where they were made. Could have put them in anyone's box. How  can you tell the difference. I guess if they weld themselves together in 20k I might know.

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Mopar Performance PCM. If I run less than 90 octane the preignition knock gets rather nasty climbing grades. The Performance PCM was only 360 dollars compared to nearly 900 dollars for stock PCM. 

I have  a Bully dog tuner on my 2010 hemi and have it set for premium tune as well. mileage is the same but the power is a big difference if I do happen to fill up at a place that doesn't have premium. Heck even locally i fill at a few different places and the power difference between one places premium and another is night and day difference in power on my 5.7 hemi.

4 hours ago, dripley said:

Not knocking Timken but they like everyone else get their bearings from all over. I just put 2 new front hub bearings on mine that I bought from an old member here for $150 for the pair. Not one mark on them as to where they were made. Could have put them in anyone's box. How  can you tell the difference. I guess if they weld themselves together in 20k I might know.

Timken is a bearing manufacturer.... I'd be willing to bet they make their own bearings. From what I can find, they are made in the US for our trucks. 

11 hours ago, Wild and Free said:

I have  a Bully dog tuner on my 2010 hemi and have it set for premium tune as well. mileage is the same but the power is a big difference if I do happen to fill up at a place that doesn't have premium. Heck even locally i fill at a few different places and the power difference between one places premium and another is night and day difference in power on my 5.7 hemi.

 

 

There is some truth in that. 

13 hours ago, Wild and Free said:

Ha Ha yeah he has the power bug now, can't spend extra $$ on fuel saving stuff anymore, hes got power mods to buy lol.

 

 

Ummm... Yeah and no... If I had the power bug I would step up much higher. So no, I'm still looking for economy because I'm still having to travel 4,200 miles roughly every month to keep MoparMom going to dialysis. The only gain is the +25 HP step from my old +50HP VCO injectors that failed to +75 SAC's that I have now. So if you call that a power bug wow... 

 

Now being the Quadzilla does a superior job of fuel management over my old Edge Comp. Yes I opted for just a touch more HP no the injectors since I could easily do clean tunes with +50 HP now the +75HP now I'll start to tweak in. Being I've been fighting timing issues (failing injectors and P0216 VP44 injection pump). 

I got to publicly say "Thank you" to @MUDDY and  Muddy's wife for bailing me out. I got down to Boise to drop MoparMom off at dialysis and went and ate breakfast. After breakfast, I want to go to Downtown Boise to pick up my girlfriend's grill guard for her Land Rover. So I hopped on the I184 and started head that way. Didn't take long and the vehicle started darting back in forth in the lanes. I slowed down and got off the freeway to look it over nothing appeared out of sorts. So I took city streets to the shop to get the grill guard. I started to hear the growling and grinding noise starting. The darting got worse. So I took care of the grill guard and asked for a floor jack. Sure enough the passenger side I assumed that failed was still good. The driver side was rather floppy. 

 

Muddy got MoparMom and Diesel back over to RV at his place. Then we went to get a trailer at Harold's to hopefully trailer it back to Harold's place. Needless to say that Harold's till deck doesn't work too good without ramps. It would flatten out before the last axle made it on the deck. We abandon the idea and got back home about 11pm that night. Next morning I unloaded Muddy's trailer of all his mill ends. Then we proceeded to go load my truck up. Hauled for Harold's and got it fixed up. I know Muddy go a video of me shaking the tire. 

 

So I replaced the on bearing and picked up a second bearing for the other side. I'll be installing today. 

Glad to hear you're mobile again. 

 

Its been a long time since I've seen muddy or Harold. 

I would like to say... My ABS light and BRAKE light are now off. The ABS issue is now resolved. Again I've got to send out a Thank You to @Chris O. for the Cummins CCD tool he produced. Without this tool I would have never found the issue for a very long time. Nice to see the dash lights out for the first time.